What did you do in the garage yesterday?
Discussion
One for pupp, I have fitted a different sender due to the new fuel tank, I have tried fuel gauge wizard and found it to be unreliable, one my second one now. Also the linearity isnt brilliant , so given up and sent the gauge and sender to speedy cable to convert. Just another avenue to consider should you wish.
Good news on the charge cooler wished I looked into them instead of fitted the largest air inter cooler I could get made
Good news on the charge cooler wished I looked into them instead of fitted the largest air inter cooler I could get made
phazed said:
Disconnected the rear ARB to try and find out what the strange cracking sort of noise is coming from the middle rear of the car it seems.
took for a test drive and noise still there.
Strange, I can't find a thing wrong.
Any suggestions ?
When does this cracking noise occur? e.g. does it happen when you go on/come off the throttle? took for a test drive and noise still there.
Strange, I can't find a thing wrong.
Any suggestions ?
Thanks for the fuel gauge suggestions - again, it's an SPA dual gauge that I originally mated with the standard swing float sender. This 'worked' but the readings were all over the place so I changed to a VDO dip tube sender in the hope this would fluctuate less. To start with it wouldn't give a signal the gauge recognised at all (despite being in specified range for the instrument and after ensuring the resistance 'curve' was the same direction - it actually shouldn't matter). After much messing about with adding resistors, I now get sensible readings at full and empty but random rubbish for most of the intermediate range. Really really annoying as the thing is supposed to be super flexible and compatible, and should be the perfect answer on paper. Incredibly for an electronic gizmo, there is no way to 're-set' to factory defaults once you start programming and shaped tanks need you to start from dry and fill to full in five steps to program in increased accuracy. Lots of swearing after going through that palaver several times only to have it tell you it's 87% full after 190 miles 
Add in a seemingly unresolvable sensitivity to line voltage or earth offsets (readings are radically altered when lights are turned on etc) and I'm being forced to conclude the thing is simply not fit for purpose. And don't get me started on how not 52mm the 52mm housing dia is (shocking inconsistency between units making fitting a nightmare). Which is all very frustrating as they look great and, if they worked as they should (as does the boost/coolant temp and oil pressure/temp combos) would be perfect for the job. On the whole, reluctantly say avoid
Add in a seemingly unresolvable sensitivity to line voltage or earth offsets (readings are radically altered when lights are turned on etc) and I'm being forced to conclude the thing is simply not fit for purpose. And don't get me started on how not 52mm the 52mm housing dia is (shocking inconsistency between units making fitting a nightmare). Which is all very frustrating as they look great and, if they worked as they should (as does the boost/coolant temp and oil pressure/temp combos) would be perfect for the job. On the whole, reluctantly say avoid
J400GED said:
phazed said:
Disconnected the rear ARB to try and find out what the strange cracking sort of noise is coming from the middle rear of the car it seems.
took for a test drive and noise still there.
Strange, I can't find a thing wrong.
Any suggestions ?
When does this cracking noise occur? e.g. does it happen when you go on/come off the throttle? took for a test drive and noise still there.
Strange, I can't find a thing wrong.
Any suggestions ?
I can make it do it when i drive forward and backward on my drive where it changes levels.
Seems to come from the middle of the car just in front of the diff, maybe.
As I have removed the ARB, have a fully serviced set of Gaz Monos on, renewed all the C/Vs and have Polybushed everything about 6 months ago I am at a loss as to what it can be.
Next step will be to remove the rear wheels and gve the Monos a good tug to check the rose jointed ends but I am sure they are perfect as I checked and lubed them a few months ago.
A big ??????
Chassis flex and something not right??? Unlikely.
phazed said:
Most noticeable when the chassis sort of goes in twist.
I can make it do it when i drive forward and backward on my drive where it changes levels.
Seems to come from the middle of the car just in front of the diff, maybe.
As I have removed the ARB, have a fully serviced set of Gaz Monos on, renewed all the C/Vs and have Polybushed everything about 6 months ago I am at a loss as to what it can be.
Next step will be to remove the rear wheels and gve the Monos a good tug to check the rose jointed ends but I am sure they are perfect as I checked and lubed them a few months ago.
A big ??????
I had something similar and found it to be the droplink union with the rear wishbone. I really tightened both sides and the noise went.
Chassis flex and something not right??? Unlikely.
I can make it do it when i drive forward and backward on my drive where it changes levels.
Seems to come from the middle of the car just in front of the diff, maybe.
As I have removed the ARB, have a fully serviced set of Gaz Monos on, renewed all the C/Vs and have Polybushed everything about 6 months ago I am at a loss as to what it can be.
Next step will be to remove the rear wheels and gve the Monos a good tug to check the rose jointed ends but I am sure they are perfect as I checked and lubed them a few months ago.
A big ??????
I had something similar and found it to be the droplink union with the rear wishbone. I really tightened both sides and the noise went.
Chassis flex and something not right??? Unlikely.
JWzed said:
Diff mounting brackets working loose/fretting?
Body moving/creaking in relation to chassis flex (bit extreme).
Just a thought.
Diff Polybushed 6 months ago.Body moving/creaking in relation to chassis flex (bit extreme).
Just a thought.
I did think of body/chassis movement but as you said, a bit extreme.
The noise started a few weeks ago and although it doesn't sound terminal I keep my car very sound mechanically due to careering down tracks at 140mph!
I will investigate further with a pry bar.
Hi Peter, grasping at straws here but prop bolts come loose or the diff mounts or all that power has snapped the chassis somewhere! Gulp!
I'm sure it's something daft knowing the level of mechanical fortitude you install into your Tvr.
I'd be looking at the diff bushes. Goodluck mate. Alun
I'm sure it's something daft knowing the level of mechanical fortitude you install into your Tvr.
I'd be looking at the diff bushes. Goodluck mate. Alun
ClassiChimi said:
Hi Peter, grasping at straws here but prop bolts come loose or the diff mounts or all that power has snapped the chassis somewhere! Gulp!
I'm sure it's something daft knowing the level of mechanical fortitude you install into your Tvr.
I'd be looking at the diff bushes. Goodluck mate. Alun
Hi Alan, long time!I'm sure it's something daft knowing the level of mechanical fortitude you install into your Tvr.
I'd be looking at the diff bushes. Goodluck mate. Alun
How are you doing? Are you back on the road yet?
As to the noise, I need to investigate further!
Morning Peter, cars sitting pretty but I'm not on the road yet mate, just trying to complete on the sale of a property, various delays so it's taken bleeding months!
It's all rather frustrating but it shouldn't be long now !
I've been kept busy these last few months with the Mazda race cars,, ( were running two cars at meets now! )
I've also been offline so it's good to be back.
Hope that noise is the exhaust clunking somewhere.
My little baby is due some work then she's a good un I reckon,
I've decided against porting and tuning for now, concentrate on electrics and new ecu first.
I really hope to come and join you guys on a track day later in the summer, not driving but I just love being at the tracks and having the crac. My wheel changes are as smooth as a Rolex !
Ha ha.
It's all rather frustrating but it shouldn't be long now !
I've been kept busy these last few months with the Mazda race cars,, ( were running two cars at meets now! )
I've also been offline so it's good to be back.
Hope that noise is the exhaust clunking somewhere.
My little baby is due some work then she's a good un I reckon,
I've decided against porting and tuning for now, concentrate on electrics and new ecu first.
I really hope to come and join you guys on a track day later in the summer, not driving but I just love being at the tracks and having the crac. My wheel changes are as smooth as a Rolex !
Ha ha.
phazed said:
We are at Bedford on the 15th of June.
Can you make it?
I might let you drive my car........
You can drive mine too, if changing the exhaust tomorrow solves my Bedford-noise-test-passing problem. Now got a Westfield seat and full harnesses installed, so you might just enjoy yourself.....Can you make it?
I might let you drive my car........
It's not too far from you, just down the A14 to the A6 and turn off just after the Shell garage.
ChilliWhizz said:
Slacken off the bolts that secure the tray thingy under the silencer box and see if it still does it in the drive.... 
I can't believe you got this right!!!!A few of the exhaust tray bolts needed half a turn. Tightened them all and noise gone, cheers matey!
Took the opportunity to silicon grease the ARB Polys and check and tighten everything that is bolted down.
Happy days..........
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