What did you do in the garage yesterday?

[phazed]

Had 2 split spark plug rubber boots, even with extenders so bought a new set of Moroso leads that had to be cut to size and assembled and fitted a set of heat resistant socks to them.

Had to use a special tool to crimp the ends, (thanks Simon).





|http://thumbsnap.com/vMl3QkYs[/url]

Also took out my drivers seat to try these acquired carbon fibre seats, much bracketry required as well as upholstering.

[url]

Edited by phazed on Sunday 13th November 00:06

[TVaRt]

im thiking of going to elise seats and i also have a factory roll bar, looks tight? Do the elise seats bring your head closer to the bar, was hoping they would keep it away

[phazed]

TVaRt said:

im thiking of going to elise seats and i also have a factory roll bar, looks tight? Do the elise seats bring your head closer to the bar, was hoping they would keep it away

It all depends on H ow tall you are. I am 6'3" tall and my head is next to the rollbar hence the padding.
The trouble is if the rollbar is fitted further back then it has to be in a lower position and therefore it doesn't do its job .

[ClassiChimi]

phazed said:

Had 2 split spark plug rubber boots, even with extenders so bought a new set of Moroso leads that had to be cut to size and assembled and fitted a set of heat resistant socks to them.

Had to use a special tool to crimp the ends, (thanks Simon).





|http://thumbsnap.com/vMl3QkYs[/url]

Also took out my drivers seat to try these acquired carbon fibre seats, much bracketry required as well as upholstering.

[url]

Edited by phazed on Sunday 13th November 00:06

Red with dark blue works well, nice fat sparks with those babies.

Go for a dark moody red interior Peter, Mega. appeals to the kid in me, suggests dangerous

Richie used a couple of bars to support the floor mounts from under the car pinching the floor and seats together, a few spacers etc and using slightly longer bolts.

My floor has a split forming in the floor pan from one of the seat bolts, at some point I have little choice but to add some strengthening bars which it really should have from new, Do you have a similar arrangement to restrain your Lotus seats, you don't use runners I seem to remember?

[QBee]

Something like this is all you need - you could probably weld it in without removing the body (but what i know about attaching metal to metal stopped with the Boy's Own soldering iron ). Just a strip, at the level of the bottom of the chassis rails. You would need two - my Tuscan seats have their front bolt holes drilled through the quarter irons to the front of the outrigger tube, so I don't need a second strip. Mat S thought that was pretty good thinking for an accountant.

Apologies for the dirty chassis - welding done before cleaning. Boot in the picture is a sign of my amateur status in the worlds of photography and life. Front of the car is towards the bottom of the picture if the boot is on the right. (Bloody iphone made in Australia)

Edited by QBee on Sunday 13th November 15:05

[phazed]

No bars yet, they're on the list.

I welded up simple frames to bolt the Lotus seats to the floor.

My engine bay mantra is keep it neat and simple.

[QBee]

I always did like the Opel Manta engine bay - nice and tidy

[ClassiChimi]

I was young, a gold coloured Manta with the twin headlights and arches the lot, over revved it sliding it around our greasy private road at work broadside, dropped a Valve, I bought a Haines manual and fixed it outside, about this time of year under a tarp strung up as a roof,,, in the sticks where I rented a cottage, haha, had the head skinmmed and rebuilt by an engine builder and put it all back together over a couple of evenings, great fun that Car as it was lethal.

The strengthening bars are something to do when the chassis is in need of rework,

Look good Anthony.

[Tangoed]

Refitting my roll cage after being chromed

[phazed]

Chromed you say, hmmm.

[Discopotatoes]

QBee said:

Something like this is all you need - you could probably weld it in without removing the body (but what i know about attaching metal to metal stopped with the Boy's Own soldering iron ). Just a strip, at the level of the bottom of the chassis rails. You would need two - my Tuscan seats have their front bolt holes drilled through the quarter irons to the front of the outrigger tube, so I don't need a second strip. Mat S thought that was pretty good thinking for an accountant.

Apologies for the dirty chassis - welding done before cleaning. Boot in the picture is a sign of my amateur status in the worlds of photography and life. Front of the car is towards the bottom of the picture if the boot is on the right. (Bloody iphone made in Australia)

Edited by QBee on Sunday 13th November 15:05

That's exactly what I did to mine with the body on before Galvenising and powder coating

[jojackson4]

Started getting bits together for the winter jobs
New afm a jools special and chip (thanks Oil)
Re worked plenom base and inlet manifold
Some SS pipe for altering the heater pipes that run down the drivers side
adjustable push rods (thanks to Mr High)
And hopefully if I can get my finger out a 72mm butterfly

[s p a c e m a n]

What are the plans with the heater pipes? It's the second time that I've heard them mentioned recently and they annoy the hell out of me so if there's a way to change them I'm all

[phazed]

jojackson4 said:

Started getting bits together for the winter jobs
New afm a jools special and chip (thanks Oil)
Re worked plenom base and inlet manifold
Some SS pipe for altering the heater pipes that run down the drivers side
adjustable push rods (thanks to Mr High)
And hopefully if I can get my finger out a 72mm butterfly

Consider a new set of heater pipes under the inlet manifold.

Amazing you broke a driveshaft with a standard engine? Has it the early driveshafts with 2 circlip or the later shouldered ones with one circlip?

My later ones never broke considering that I dumped the clutch at 5K revs with sticky tyres!

[jojackson4]

I am going to make some SSteal ones up and stick them under the inlet manifold
With the ht leads and injector wires


I have cut out the casting to help a bit with the cooling and so I can get the wires out
And it looks a bit trick

[Tyre Tread]

That's where they are routed on the Rover P5B

[jojackson4]

phazed said:

jojackson4 said:

Started getting bits together for the winter jobs
New afm a jools special and chip (thanks Oil)
Re worked plenom base and inlet manifold
Some SS pipe for altering the heater pipes that run down the drivers side
adjustable push rods (thanks to Mr High)
And hopefully if I can get my finger out a 72mm butterfly

Consider a new set of heater pipes under the inlet manifold.

Amazing you broke a driveshaft with a standard engine? Has it the early driveshafts with 2 circlip or the later shouldered ones with one circlip?

My later ones never broke considering that I dumped the clutch at 5K revs with sticky tyres!

Yep I think they are the original ones (20 years old) double clip ones and it's on the
Grove where it let go

[phazed]

Yep, the twin clip ones seem to be a bit delicate. Can't believe mine didn't break!

Edited to say mine are the shouldered ones.

Broke the stub axle though!

Edited by phazed on Sunday 13th November 21:04

[ClassiChimi]

jojackson4 said:

Yep I think they are the original ones (20 years old) double clip ones and it's on the
Grove where it let go

He was in the process of battering my drag time Peter, went way below it too.

I like that inlet manifold, classy and very trick.

[jojackson4]

Doing the stub is a belting
Hopefully the manifold and base will be worth the work


The big step has been removed