The Suitably Re-Engineered Chimaera Club

The Suitably Re-Engineered Chimaera Club

Author
Discussion

keith2.2

1,100 posts

195 months

Wednesday 26th March 2014
quotequote all
pwd95 said:
Like the sound of this...
WMS Brakes & Compomotive alloys.

Will the soon to be installed CanEMS ignition system, ECU & loom put me over the top?
What do you think to the wms brakes? I keep not-quite pulling the trigger!

As for this particular club - it'll be my current holding pattern! V8d engine, Nitrons, braided hoses and Tuscan seats are the key points at the moment!

TV8

3,122 posts

175 months

Wednesday 26th March 2014
quotequote all
db484bhpv8 said:
You would qualify for membership of the MCC pending further investigation of all mods on your car by designated MCC inspectors. Ie me and Barrie
Thanks Derek, over to the other thread for me, pending approval obviously! beer

macdeb

8,508 posts

255 months

Wednesday 26th March 2014
quotequote all
ChilliWhizz said:
Er, actually yes.... strangely it was the best 100 quid I've ever spent on the car biggrin
hehe

Alexdaredevils

5,697 posts

179 months

Wednesday 26th March 2014
quotequote all
Stealth cam and trumpets club

pwd95

8,383 posts

238 months

Wednesday 26th March 2014
quotequote all
keith2.2 said:
pwd95 said:
Like the sound of this...
WMS Brakes & Compomotive alloys.

Will the soon to be installed CanEMS ignition system, ECU & loom put me over the top?
What do you think to the wms brakes? I keep not-quite pulling the trigger!

As for this particular club - it'll be my current holding pattern! V8d engine, Nitrons, braided hoses and Tuscan seats are the key points at the moment!
Very impressed TBH. Did 4 trackdays on them last year & they just worked. Just ordered a set of Ferrodo pads from Keri, no hasstle. Having done some track days in my old Griff 500 & my Chim 430, both on standard brakes, these WMS brakes are far stronger & have lasted very well. thumbup

l6rth

452 posts

163 months

Thursday 27th March 2014
quotequote all
So what is your opinion my suitably re-engineering friends, should I rr my near standard 4.0 before I start the mods? Or should I mod abit more and then get it rr? And if it's the latter which should mods should I do first? Or should I mod and then mark Adams chip?

900T-R

20,404 posts

257 months

Thursday 27th March 2014
quotequote all
I'd say start with the best suspension you can afford and a proper geo set up, then better brake pads and if you still have any money left after that, start with engine mods... thumbup

s p a c e m a n

10,776 posts

148 months

Thursday 27th March 2014
quotequote all
My rule of thumb with new cars is always suspension, then brakes, then rolling road readout. Otherwise I end up spunking all of my funds on engine bits and end up with something that's only good at making loads of tyre smoke until my wallet recovers.

ChilliWhizz

11,992 posts

161 months

Thursday 27th March 2014
quotequote all
What Eric said above regarding suspension and brakes.
l6rth said:
So what is your opinion my suitably re-engineering friends, should I rr my near standard 4.0 before I start the mods? Or should I mod abit more and then get it rr? And if it's the latter which should mods should I do first? Or should I mod and then mark Adams chip?
However, when it comes to engine mods, I'd respectfully suggest you take a long hard look and give serious thought to where you want to be in terms of power. Looking at your profile, I'd say you might be a serial modifier.... I'd also suggest, if you haven't already done so, get a drive or a ride in a properly quick Chim, and if it makes you grin stupidly and you think 'I gotta get me one of these' then you'll know not to start modding the 4.0...... Or, if you do, then go straight for a SC or turbo install with after market ECU. By modding the 4.0 but keeping it NA, you stand the risk of spending lots of time and money on something which, 6 months down the road, still won't be near quick enough for you, despite trumpets, induction kits, chips, and other expensive bolt on stuff.....

All just in my humble opinion......

Oh, and if you want a ride in a reasonably quick 500 I'll be visiting my daughter in Brampton in two or three weeks time.... Or join us at Snetterton on a track day and come for a ride round the circuit..... QBee will be there too.... next one is 10th April in the evening..

Chilli smile



l6rth

452 posts

163 months

Thursday 27th March 2014
quotequote all
Thanks guys, done the suspension and had the chassis fully rebushed, maybe I should rolling road it before supercharging it to see if the motor is strong enough? Is it as simple as buying a supercharging kit and bolting it all on? I can see it being as simple as that I presume it will need mapping etc etc?

QBee

Original Poster:

20,953 posts

144 months

Thursday 27th March 2014
quotequote all
l6rth said:
Thanks guys, done the suspension and had the chassis fully rebushed, maybe I should rolling road it before supercharging it to see if the motor is strong enough? Is it as simple as buying a supercharging kit and bolting it all on? I can see it being as simple as that I presume it will need mapping etc etc?
To check suitability you need compression and leak down tests.
If you are good with spanners, then it may be a bolt on job.
Yes, you will need a remap, but go to an aftermarket ECU.

l6rth

452 posts

163 months

Thursday 27th March 2014
quotequote all
What do you think is a realistic budget for supercharging with new ecu? If i do it myself or if I pay someone?

QBee

Original Poster:

20,953 posts

144 months

Thursday 27th March 2014
quotequote all
See linky
The ECU is anything up to £2,000 fitted and fully set up. A lot cheaper if fitted yourself and then mapped.
Alexdaredevils will advise, I am sure. He's full of............useful information.

l6rth

452 posts

163 months

Thursday 27th March 2014
quotequote all
Just been looking at the sc power kit and I'm sure I could fit that no problem, couldn't see the price anywhere though, anyone know the cost of this kit? I have used Halstead motor sport (engineer1949) who did the orange supercharger chim and I'm sure if I need advise/assistance he would help

l6rth

452 posts

163 months

Friday 28th March 2014
quotequote all
Found out the cost is £3480inc vat no inter cooler for the kit, what is mapping going to cost roughly.

ChilliWhizz

11,992 posts

161 months

Friday 28th March 2014
quotequote all
l6rth said:
Found out the cost is £3480inc vat no inter cooler for the kit, what is mapping going to cost roughly.
This is not a question for the suitably re-engineered Chimaera club, now you're talking FI and after market ECU's you're into MCC territory.


loud430

550 posts

183 months

Friday 28th March 2014
quotequote all
can I join? wavey
93 430
act trumpets/inlet pipe & k&n filter
decatted manifolds & clive f y piece
big valve heads
act cherrybomb exhaust
gaz gold pros
16" imolas all round
oh & mk3 headlights!

Richard 858

1,882 posts

135 months

Friday 28th March 2014
quotequote all
ChilliWhizz said:
l6rth said:
Found out the cost is £3480inc vat no inter cooler for the kit, what is mapping going to cost roughly.
This is not a question for the suitably re-engineered Chimaera club, now you're talking FI and after market ECU's you're into MCC territory.
Having almost completed my SC installation myself I will be able to confirm a few factors for you in a week or so. However I would have a good chat with David or Colin at SC Power before you start estimating costs, Mark Adams is also full of information and is happy to give advice (but I'd allow at least half an hour for a phone call !) The sensible advice all seems to be to go for the intercooler from the start (which I have) so I would strongly advise budgeting accordingly. With regard to re-mapping & aftermarket ECU there are various schools of thought, which again I will be able to comment on soon.
If you're prepared to wait a week or so I will be happy to share what I've learned as an enthusiastic amateur !
Sorry Anthony & Richard, this should indeed be on MCC !!

Edited by Richard 858 on Friday 28th March 08:15


Edited by Richard 858 on Friday 28th March 21:16

900T-R

20,404 posts

257 months

Friday 28th March 2014
quotequote all
OK Sirs,

As the originator of the original SRECC bowtie and while my TVR whisperer will be putting the finishing touches on Speed Eight Prepared Chimaera #1 for it to be presented at Zandvoort next Tuesday, April 1 (no joke) after a seven year journey, permit me to take the opportunity of dealing with the misconception that an SRECC member car is just a lesser advanced MCC car.

Au contraire.

Now I would advice you to take a cup of your preferred beverage and make sure you're sitting comfortably when I outline the scope of this rolling development project.

Not unlike the Eagle Jaguar E-type upgrades, the goal of the project was to create a Chimaera that takes advantage of material and product developments of the past 20 years and deals with known weak areas and cost-driven compromises, while at the same time keeping to the original design brief as a usuable, practical sports car that is just as well suited to long-distance touring as for clearing ones mind from cobwebs on a Sunday morning, and preserving as much of the original car as possible for the long term.

The Speed Eight Prepared car is not a full restoration - if you were to commission one it would be based on a tidy original example that would be gone through with a fine tooth comb and even the tiniest faults rectified accordingly. Where possible, repairs to body, interior and paintwork would be localised rather than a wholesale replacement, keeping the car's authenticity to a large extent. A fully rebuilt and upgraded car - the starting point of which could be as little as a bodyshell with identity paperwork - would simply be a Speed Eight Chimaera.

For this and probably most Chimaeras, major work would include an outrigger replacement, roof re-cover and front end respray.

My main aims for development were (more or less in order of importance):

- Providing greater safety margins in wet or slippery conditions, and much improved handling composure, especially on uneven surfaces

- More precise steering and front-end behaviour, lowering 'white noise' levels in the car's feedback

- More immediate throttle response, allowing revs to go up and down much quicker in line with the car's sporting nature; and a wide useable power band

- Long-term engine reliability and durability; a cooling system that copes with all conditions that can be more or less reasonably expected with capacity to spare

- Reducing heat soak in engine bay

- A power/weight ratio ITRO 300 hp/ton, giving overall performance at a level with the fastest current equivalent front(/mid) engined 2-seat roadsters, i.e. F-Type V8S, V12 Vantage Roadster both of which offer power/weight ratios of a smidgen under 300 bhp/ton. Weight reduction higher priority than engine bhp - avoiding putting additional stress on chassis, suspension and driveline components and providing enhanced overall dynamics.

- Better passenger accommodation (footwell), eliminating the presence of battery fluids (AGM or gel-type battery)

- Where possible without compromising the car's originality, improving the quality and durability of trim, fittings, eliminating buzzes, rattles and other annoying noises I don't particularly want to hear.

This one has been developed as a road car first and foremost, prioritising handling over outright grip and engine response over BHP.


The spec:

Rebuilt 4.3 engine - big journal crank, lightened, balanced and tuftrided. ACL bearings. OEM rods, weighed etc. Forged pistons. Compression ca. 11:1 IIRC (engine builder is not available to ask anymore redfacewink ) Piper cam, bespoke grind. Upgraded valve train components. Heads ported, new bulleted valve guides, new valves, standard sizes (why? Ask the builder - oh no, he fled to France hehe ), multi-angle valve grind. Internal oil and coolant flow modified in some way or another, apparently... Lightened flywheel. Engine builder estimated total rotating and reciprocating masses saving of 10-15 kg, 10 kg would about tally with the corner weighting results we had...

45 mm ported intake manifold with 45 mm ACT carbon superflare trumpets, thermal gasket between manifold & trumpet base.

ACT twin throttle carbon plenum and intake hoses.

Air ducting behind grille to radiator and air filter from aluminium sheet.

ACT stainless exhaust manifolds & uprated gaskets, decat pipes; OE exhaust.

Bosch 92 mm AFM (BMW V8), Siemens/Bosch 'Vectra' injectors; fuel pressure modified to 3.0 bar. Uprated Bosch fuel pump.

123ignition 123tune ignition system. Bosch core. 'Blue' Magnecore leads.

Recored OE radiator with bigger core.

TVR/AP 500 clutch.

New (later type) front wishbones.
Uprated (later type) ARB brackets on rear wishbones; rosejointed ARB droplinks.
Intrax 1K2 Black Titan suspension, now rebuilt with the Anti Roll Control option.

Tar.Ox F2000 grooved front brake discs with Ferodo DS3000 pads, rear OE discs with DS2500 pads (Stage 1; Stage 2 - Tar.Ox 32.6 six pot calipers on Tarox Sierra Cosworth 283 mm discs in development; Stage 3 - same with 283 mm carbon-ceramic discs - definitely not for this one though...).

OZ split rim wheels (lighter than Imolas or Estorils, the difference is <1 kg though...). Bridgestone RE002 Adrenalin tyres, 205/55/15 front, 225/55/16 rear - this is an early car that came with with 60 section fronts and 55 section rears originally).

Odyssey PC925 AGM battery, ~3 kg lighter than standard and offering room for the ECU to sit next to it rather than dangling in front of the battery box (stage 2: 2x Aliant X4 lithium-ion batteries).

Lightweight geared starter, originally Powerlite RAC318 but locally rebuilt and reliable now hopefuly. Still looking for alternative supplier that can match or improve on the 3.9 kg weight (OEM 8 kg)...

Space-saver spare tyre kicked out and replaced with OEM-style Active Products air compressor/goo combo.

Improved underbonnet heatshielding material (same as Donkervoort's current choice)

Lots of detail improvements, too many to list...

Kerb weight: ~1015 kg (calculated down from 1.043.5 'before' weight savings (except engine) on Intrax' scales)

Power: 300 hp (PS) @ 6,000 rpm.

Still outstanding:

Replacement of butt-welded, shortened steering column shaft with a properly machined one-piece item.

Brakes, stage 2


Pics... from '07 to now smile










































Edited by 900T-R on Monday 31st March 07:53

Zumbruk

7,848 posts

260 months

Friday 28th March 2014
quotequote all
900T-R said:
I'd say start with the best suspension you can afford and a proper geo set up, then better brake pads and if you still have any money left after that, start with engine mods... thumbup
This.