WMS brake pads
Discussion
Hi
Anyone help with this appreciate it, can't get hold of Keri @ WMS
1) can anyone tell me which one of the three WMS callipers I have on a 1995 Chim (I guess the numbers of the 3 options relate to measurements on the disk, but I don't know which ones)?
2) does anyone know which pads fit and/or recommendations?
3) anyone found they get 'pad slap' (cluncking noise by the pads moving in the callipers) and how to stop it?
Thanks!
Chimaera (F 283x24 solid T20)
Chimaera (F 302x22 solid T20)
Chimaera (F 276-83x24 solid T30x)
[url]
|http://thumbsnap.com/22czxj5l[/url]
Anyone help with this appreciate it, can't get hold of Keri @ WMS
1) can anyone tell me which one of the three WMS callipers I have on a 1995 Chim (I guess the numbers of the 3 options relate to measurements on the disk, but I don't know which ones)?
2) does anyone know which pads fit and/or recommendations?
3) anyone found they get 'pad slap' (cluncking noise by the pads moving in the callipers) and how to stop it?
Thanks!
Chimaera (F 283x24 solid T20)
Chimaera (F 302x22 solid T20)
Chimaera (F 276-83x24 solid T30x)
[url]
|http://thumbsnap.com/22czxj5l[/url]
Hi, I'm off sick, but it happens that I actually replied to the first email I got from you yesterday......at 15:44 today - 2min before this thread!
Anyway, again, for the record:
- That's the T20 caliper
- There are pads to fit from EBC / Ferodo / Carbotech / Hawk / Mintex / Carbone Lorriane / Performance Friction and others
- The pads in race calipers are looser than in road calipers, this is primarily to allow for the increased thermal expansion due to the higher temperatures that are encountered by the pads, and to make sure nothing sticks. You can normally improve things by tweeking the split pins (either "forward" or apart slightly)
Anyway, again, for the record:
- That's the T20 caliper
- There are pads to fit from EBC / Ferodo / Carbotech / Hawk / Mintex / Carbone Lorriane / Performance Friction and others
- The pads in race calipers are looser than in road calipers, this is primarily to allow for the increased thermal expansion due to the higher temperatures that are encountered by the pads, and to make sure nothing sticks. You can normally improve things by tweeking the split pins (either "forward" or apart slightly)
Edited by Keri on Friday 11th April 16:05
Sardonicus said:
Spring between the pads on the locating pin often cure pad rattle 
not so strong they push the pistons back but just enough to put the pads under slight tension, you get the jist 
Simon, I have that annoying/alarming rattle on a similar set-up, but don't want to stick the pads to the calipers as I have discovered what stonking brakes I have on track and intend to get them seriously hot at the next track day as I late brake to overtake Phazed not so strong they push the pistons back but just enough to put the pads under slight tension, you get the jist 
Could you please give me a clue as to where that springs kit comes from? Or do I just get Mat to cobble? Car is going to Mat Smith on Tuesday to try to establish that brake pad rattle is really what I am hearing. The rattle has appeared straight after this set of new disks and pads had their first track session, which was when I discovered just how good the brakes are, and at slow speed on normal British (ie crap) roads, it sounds like the front of the car is falling off.
The WMS pads, as you can see in the pic, are held in by a long split pin, so that you can remove the pads without touching the caliper bolts.
I imagine the spring goes between the two pad tops, the bar goes through the outer split pin hole and through the spring, and then through the inner split pin hole, and the little split pin goes through the hole in the end of the bar to hold the hole assembly in place.
I get that clunk too - i think its the pad rotating with the disk as you touch the brakes, and hitting the caliper. Not sure that the kit will stop pad clunk, it strikes me as more designed to eliminate pad rattle.
Have to admit, my rattle might not be the pads, I just suspect it is. It only happens on bumpy roads at low speed. I need to do some driving around town with a foot on the brake. With a foot for the clutch too, I need to grow a third leg, but we do seem to be heading towards short skirt and skimpy top season...
I imagine the spring goes between the two pad tops, the bar goes through the outer split pin hole and through the spring, and then through the inner split pin hole, and the little split pin goes through the hole in the end of the bar to hold the hole assembly in place.
I get that clunk too - i think its the pad rotating with the disk as you touch the brakes, and hitting the caliper. Not sure that the kit will stop pad clunk, it strikes me as more designed to eliminate pad rattle.
Have to admit, my rattle might not be the pads, I just suspect it is. It only happens on bumpy roads at low speed. I need to do some driving around town with a foot on the brake. With a foot for the clutch too, I need to grow a third leg, but we do seem to be heading towards short skirt and skimpy top season...
Pad rattle generally happens at slow speed over those small uneven road surfaces (well thats when you hear it most) and can drive you nuts 
Ford/Lockhead M16 calipers fitted to Escorts & Capri's (dual opposing piston) were murder for this without the optional anti-rattle kit fitted 
and yes the sping/s go between the pads in the middle of the locating pin/s (excuse the s
t pic) 
Ford/Lockhead M16 calipers fitted to Escorts & Capri's (dual opposing piston) were murder for this without the optional anti-rattle kit fitted and yes the sping/s go between the pads in the middle of the locating pin/s (excuse the st pic) A session driving into, around and out of Newark with my left foot on the brake has confirmed that my shake, rattle and roll is coming from the brakes. Kit hopefully arriving when the car is with Mat (my EBay default delivery address is Mat Smith Sports Cars!!) next week. Thanks for the suggestion, Simon
A bit of mechanical pad noise is pretty common in most performance 4-pot calipers, largely as the pads have more room to expand without any danger of seizing.
First thing to check is that you have the proper diameter split pins, they need to be 1/8" (AKA about 3.2mm) and not the very common size below (7/64" AKA about 2.8mm). The pad hole diameter can be a bit out to which is annoying if it happens (EBC holes are tighter than Ferodo for instance, mainly due to paint)
Next thing is that you can bend the pins open and/or "forwards" a bit to put a bit of grip/preload on the pads, this helps in many cases.
In most cases they don't make any noise, but every now and then they do...
First thing to check is that you have the proper diameter split pins, they need to be 1/8" (AKA about 3.2mm) and not the very common size below (7/64" AKA about 2.8mm). The pad hole diameter can be a bit out to which is annoying if it happens (EBC holes are tighter than Ferodo for instance, mainly due to paint)
Next thing is that you can bend the pins open and/or "forwards" a bit to put a bit of grip/preload on the pads, this helps in many cases.
In most cases they don't make any noise, but every now and then they do...
Edited by Keri on Friday 25th April 15:42
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