A BIG THANKYOU
Discussion
To everyone who posts there trials and tribulations on here.
I would like to pay thanks for the the important information placed on PH.
I have just started enjoying my car for the 2nd year drove her to work and then
when i started her to go home, heard a awful metallic tapping noise. The oil pressure,rpms and temps were ok so decided to drive home 6 miles at under 2000rpm. Really fed up as its my birthday and seeing all my plans going west to have a fantastic weekend with my wife,cake and beers.
As a qualified engineer i made certain assumptions as to what had failed which was either closed hydraulic tappet/broken rocker arm.
Ive read posts pointing to exhaust gasket but dismissed it initially due to my 35 years of expert knowledge of all that is mechanical."Well you learn a new thing every day". I used the feather taped to a pencil tool and there it is blowing like a good one bulkhed end on the manifold.
You have saved me a awful lot time , money, pain and heartache, so once again a big thankyou.
I would like to give something back in return.
(Dont fit rubber sump gaskets which can be purchased from a well known e-site), the rubber has nowhere to compress too because the sump face is convex so it splits down the centreline from hole to hole pretty much all the way around.I used hylotite red which stays soft and made specially for steel pressed sump applications and unlike silicone sealer wont fall into the oil and block the strainer.Also used the clamp bar purchased from Rimmer bros which fits on at the rear of the sump (had to chamfer this part to fit against the face correctly)
I hope this helps anyone who is having trouble sealing a sump.
Anything i find will post in the future.
Best regards
I would like to pay thanks for the the important information placed on PH.
I have just started enjoying my car for the 2nd year drove her to work and then
when i started her to go home, heard a awful metallic tapping noise. The oil pressure,rpms and temps were ok so decided to drive home 6 miles at under 2000rpm. Really fed up as its my birthday and seeing all my plans going west to have a fantastic weekend with my wife,cake and beers.
As a qualified engineer i made certain assumptions as to what had failed which was either closed hydraulic tappet/broken rocker arm.
Ive read posts pointing to exhaust gasket but dismissed it initially due to my 35 years of expert knowledge of all that is mechanical."Well you learn a new thing every day". I used the feather taped to a pencil tool and there it is blowing like a good one bulkhed end on the manifold.
You have saved me a awful lot time , money, pain and heartache, so once again a big thankyou.
I would like to give something back in return.
(Dont fit rubber sump gaskets which can be purchased from a well known e-site), the rubber has nowhere to compress too because the sump face is convex so it splits down the centreline from hole to hole pretty much all the way around.I used hylotite red which stays soft and made specially for steel pressed sump applications and unlike silicone sealer wont fall into the oil and block the strainer.Also used the clamp bar purchased from Rimmer bros which fits on at the rear of the sump (had to chamfer this part to fit against the face correctly)
I hope this helps anyone who is having trouble sealing a sump.
Anything i find will post in the future.
Best regards
I've had a huge amount of help and support by members of the forum. And thoroughly appreciate every bit of help I've had.
But I've also been on the receiving end of ignorant individuals I've helped and got no thanks from.
One I got restarted at the side of the road in France last year, after the recovery services had given up and told him he would be relayed home. I just asked him to say Thanks on here, but never heard anything.
A couple of inconsiderate individuals won't stop me helping where I can though. We are a small band of car fans and need to pool our resources. I would certainly always help where I could.
But I've also been on the receiving end of ignorant individuals I've helped and got no thanks from.
One I got restarted at the side of the road in France last year, after the recovery services had given up and told him he would be relayed home. I just asked him to say Thanks on here, but never heard anything.
A couple of inconsiderate individuals won't stop me helping where I can though. We are a small band of car fans and need to pool our resources. I would certainly always help where I could.
I had this very sound about 1 month ago and was thinking really bad things.
Mine diagnosed from reading posts on here and the kind ears of owners from the club.Mine was also the gaskets but it has still turned into a real bad thing (Sorry to tell you this)
Work being carried out at specialist not myself,and they had one bolt that would not budge.
Engine had to be lifted and bolt drilled out
turned into many many hrs of work 
so much so probably cheaper if it had been something in the engine.
On a positive note when reading through these posts some people have no problems with their bolts and hope this is your situation.
Mine diagnosed from reading posts on here and the kind ears of owners from the club.Mine was also the gaskets but it has still turned into a real bad thing (Sorry to tell you this)
Work being carried out at specialist not myself,and they had one bolt that would not budge.
Engine had to be lifted and bolt drilled out
turned into many many hrs of work so much so probably cheaper if it had been something in the engine.On a positive note when reading through these posts some people have no problems with their bolts and hope this is your situation.
SILICONEKID346HP said:
Thanks for your advice ,how much of the hylotite red do you need a seal a sump ? It only comes in 50g tubes .cheers
1st things first , make sure the sump face and gasket face are clean and dry of any oil.Check the sump face hasnt distorted to much. You can use a length of ground flat stock to check this2 tubes will do the job. run a bead on the sump and lightly smear along the face. Also do the same on the block face making sure you smear a little extra over end joints, wait a few minutes for the solvent to evaporate as per instructions.
Carefully push the sump on, use a couple of studs so you dont slip the sump around on the other face.
Use hylotite on the threads as well. Torque the sump in a criss cross fashion same as if you were torqing a cylinder head 5lb/ft 1st, then 10lb/ft to finish. Make sure you have spring washers fitted and definateley use the clamp bar across the rear 2 bolts. This is where most leaks come from.
Hope this helps.
Well I bought the rubber gasket , is it the one for £28 quid ?
What are we saying it splits ? Anyone know the sump bolt threads so I can get some studs
I used last time the paper gasket, vw oil pan sealant, the spreader bar from rimmer bros, torqued up in cross cross fashion and it still pees oil out !
Not sure what to do next
What are we saying it splits ? Anyone know the sump bolt threads so I can get some studs
I used last time the paper gasket, vw oil pan sealant, the spreader bar from rimmer bros, torqued up in cross cross fashion and it still pees oil out !
Not sure what to do next
Hoofa said:
Well I bought the rubber gasket , is it the one for £28 quid ?
What are we saying it splits ? Anyone know the sump bolt threads so I can get some studs
I used last time the paper gasket, vw oil pan sealant, the spreader bar from rimmer bros, torqued up in cross cross fashion and it still pees oil out !
Not sure what to do next
.What are we saying it splits ? Anyone know the sump bolt threads so I can get some studs
I used last time the paper gasket, vw oil pan sealant, the spreader bar from rimmer bros, torqued up in cross cross fashion and it still pees oil out !
Not sure what to do next
As i mentioned it splits all the way around along the centreline hole to hole.
The bolts are 5/16 UNC. (not metric)
The rubber gasket i bought cost me £39.99 and was just made of soft rubber (not composite)
You need to check if the sump face is relatively flat 1st as over tightening a sump gasket can cause the face to warp.Hylotite takes up more uneveness than Hylomar and stays tacky. Dont use hylotite with a cork gasket as the solvent dries out the cork.
Trust this helps you.
HENRYKS CHIM said:
... used the feather taped to a pencil tool....
I remember well the chap that taught me that trick over 40 years ago to find leaks in compressor / air lines
I was sure folks on here thought I'd lost the plot when I suggested checking manifold gaskets with it.
The hylotite comes in various colours BTW (same composition) cream was the LR factory standard AFIK. 2 beads are not necessary IMHO, a single (thickish @ 5mm) bead on the ridge works best dropping to a bit thinner @2mm around the bolt holes. Degreasing both surfaces with thinners first ensures adhesion. Of course without studs I can't see how any one can avoid smearing during assembly and ending up with an uneven gasket? Only issue with studs is ensuring you get flange nuts so that they will sit in a socket for you to easily spin them on.
spend said:
I remember well the chap that taught me that trick over 40 years ago to find leaks in compressor / air lines
I was sure folks on here thought I'd lost the plot when I suggested checking manifold gaskets with it.
The hylotite comes in various colours BTW (same composition) cream was the LR factory standard AFIK. 2 beads are not necessary IMHO, a single (thickish @ 5mm) bead on the ridge works best dropping to a bit thinner @2mm around the bolt holes. Degreasing both surfaces with thinners first ensures adhesion. Of course without studs I can't see how any one can avoid smearing during assembly and ending up with an uneven gasket? Only issue with studs is ensuring you get flange nuts so that they will sit in a socket for you to easily spin them on.
fatboychim said:
Would you replace all with studs or maybe just 4 for location purposes
Personally I prefer to put studs in all the block locations (socket set screws are fine) and seal the threads in one go (whether blind holes or not ~ sealer is not the same locker BTW). The two at the front go into the timing cover so cap head bolts are better to get past the silly oil pressure sender (another reason I prefer to move it to the side of the timing cover). If you put studs in there you would need to extract them to get the timing cover off (cam work etc..) so not really advisable.I second HENRYKS CHIM on his experience with a rubber sump gasket. Used the correct torque and tightening sequence and left it to cure for 2 days. Filled with oil and turned the engine over without starting. Returned to check the next day to find, what only can be described as a shredded sump gasket.
Have now fitted a cork one with blue hylomar cement and no problems.
Have now fitted a cork one with blue hylomar cement and no problems.
My local mechanic is a bit old school and recommended me to get the cork gasket, got one for £4.95 on ebay. He was sceptical because he's worked on all sorts of Land Rover and Range Rover V8s without needing sump gaskets changing. The threads on here leant me towards it being just that.
My sump gasket was leaking a fair bit and turned out to have only some sealant (2000 Chimaera 4.0) smeared on the faces, no gasket at all (HH in 2007 [no longer trading]). 20k miles later, leaking.
200 miles since its replacement, not a drip.
My sump gasket was leaking a fair bit and turned out to have only some sealant (2000 Chimaera 4.0) smeared on the faces, no gasket at all (HH in 2007 [no longer trading]). 20k miles later, leaking.
200 miles since its replacement, not a drip.
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