A BIG THANKYOU

A BIG THANKYOU

Author
Discussion

phazed

21,844 posts

205 months

Sunday 13th April 2014
quotequote all
Dirko-S, no gasket, just a 2mm bead as before described, no leaks.

carsy

3,018 posts

166 months

Monday 14th April 2014
quotequote all
phazed said:
Dirko-S, no gasket, just a 2mm bead as before described, no leaks.
If my rubber foam starts to leak, this will be my next line of attack.

phazed

21,844 posts

205 months

Monday 14th April 2014
quotequote all
carsy said:
phazed said:
Dirko-S, no gasket, just a 2mm bead as before described, no leaks.
If my rubber foam starts to leak, this will be my next line of attack.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281166811664?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

ianwayne

6,306 posts

269 months

Monday 14th April 2014
quotequote all
HENRYKS CHIM said:
I used the feather taped to a pencil tool and there it is blowing like a good one bulkhead end on the manifold.

I did that this morning and it is a great tip I hadn't heard of anywhere else before. I've confirmed no. 3 cylinder exhaust manifold gasket is leaking. The little feather was blowing about like a good 'un, even at idle.

Booked it in at Central TVR to have them all done 'cos it's a job I don't fancy myself. Decided to have rocker covers powdercoated at the same time. cool

HENRYKS CHIM

Original Poster:

590 posts

159 months

Thursday 17th April 2014
quotequote all
Im finished ready for the weekend thanks to all i mentioned origonally.
I was in a dilema after taking the manifold off to see the aluminium heat shield peeling off.
So i bought some new heatshield from Thermal velocity, but realised to do the job properly the engine would need to come out and the new material will only burn off again over time.
So i decided to fix this permanently by fitting 0.5mm corrugated solid aluminium heat shield over the existing part where the heat transfer is high. I would like to put it back to standard at some point though.
I made a cardboard template to make the new cover and overlaying 2" masking tape made a copy of the rivet positions (only pressing down the masking tape on the rivets so it would peel of easily), then stuck it to the new piece and drilled the holes. Removed the old rivets and rerivetted the new piece on. silicone sealed the edges. fitted the manifold with arp bolts and nordlock washers from ACT. (dont use the flat washers as the nordlocks wont work).The car now runs great again (no mechanical noises).
Ill do the other side next time but i need to get on the road (its an illness that im happy to have) [url]

Hope this helps anyone who needs a easy fix to remedy without engine out.

Edited by HENRYKS CHIM on Thursday 17th April 23:54


Edited by HENRYKS CHIM on Thursday 17th April 23:56


Edited by HENRYKS CHIM on Thursday 17th April 23:59