help please with imobiliser

[vinnymyboy]

hi i have recently taken the battery off my car and now its put back i cant get the immobilizer to turn off, well its does turn off but the indicator lights remain on, either one side or the other, can anyone please help?

[chrispitman]

If its the original alarm have you got the little plugin keys try them. Ive had probs in past with the fobs, one seems to stay registered the other sometimes has to be resynced.

[james12345]

Disconnect the battery again for a short time, when you reconnect just turn off the immobilizer straight away (either with the remote, or the electronic key on the steering column) to re-sync it.

[vinnymyboy]

thanks guys, i have to find the electronic key now i havent seen that in years....do you know any other way, Ive managed before by depressing the lock and turning it a few times in short succession but this time no joy....im using the spare key as the fob broke away , i have it somewhere.....

[vinnymyboy]

i found the fob, turned the battery off left it, turned it back on and used the fob, one indicator light went out but the other remains on, i put the key in the lock and tried depressing it turning it, but then the other indicator light came on, I can start it up but dont want to drive it with the indicator on (its on permanantly not flashing by the way )

[ukdj]

If you can now start it, that kind of rules out the alarm/immobiliser

Perhaps your indicator issue is with the indicator/hazard circuit and may be caused by any of the following :-

indicator stalk, hazard switch (or the two diodes behind the dash in the hazard circuit or the hazard/flasher relay(s), from memory early chims had three (left/right & hazards) later models just two (indicators/hazards) or just a bad/corroded connection at the indicator itself?

Regards

UKDJ

Edited by ukdj on Thursday 17th April 16:07

[QBee]

Just to thoroughly depress you, early last year I came out one morning to find my passenger side indicators permanently on (ie not flashing) and the battery was too flat to start the car. Terminal alarm/immobiliser failure was diagnosed. Complete replacement, no problems since, including no hot start problems.

[ChimpOnGas]

There are fuses on the immobiliser that are responsible for the immobiliser indicator circuits:

1) Pull the fuses

2) Cycle the alarm/immobiliser

3) Replace the fuses

4) Cycle the alarm/immobiliser again

5) Your stuck on indicator should go out

Personally I'd top it off with a bypass on the starter solenoid circuit for a free resolution to the dreadful immobiliser reliability issues caused by TVR's special wiring skills

None of the above will cost a bean and should make the car reliable.

[EGB]

When locking or unlocking make sure that doors are fully closed. Otherwise there will be repeat lock unlock lock unlock lock or unlock...........issues!! Thanks to Chimp my ignition is bye pased and with hot start kit. However, my hot start issue was solved with a new 2kw starter motor. The old starter had after 14 years lost it's oomph.

[kennybgr8]

Reading this topic its a very common issue one that I havnt really battled (as yet), If only someone would come up with (or explain) a simple cost effective alternative including not having to remove the dash board,,,Chimp mentioned one but what does that mean in laymans terms to a not electrician if you know what I mean,,,

[vinnymyboy]

thanks for all the replies guys, my car already had another alarm fitted (not like tvrs) so id be glad to bypass the tvr one, is this a fairly simple job? can anyone talk me through it please....v simple terms though if poss

[ChimpOnGas]

EGB said:

Thanks to Chimp my ignition is bye pased and with hot start kit. However, my hot start issue was solved with a new 2kw starter motor. The old starter had after 14 years lost it's oomph.

You have not bypassed the immobiliser by fitting the hot start kit, you have just taken a little bit of load off the relay inside the immobiliser.

The problem with this is the contacts were more than likely already very pitted after years of taking more amps than the immobiliser relay was designed for.

No hot start relay will ever repair these damaged contacts inside the immobiliser the damage has been done!

And the current still passes across the damaged contacts even with the hot start kit fitted, so the problem still sits there waiting to catch you out just when you're least expecting it.

In my opinion the hot start kit just masks the true problem, it would have been a worthwhile addition when the car was new before the damage was done.

But most people fit the kit after they start having hot start issues, which quite honestly is too late!!

Even worse it gives people a false sense of security, after fitting the hot start kit people falsely assume the problem has been resolved.... which it most definitely hasn't!!!

What you need to do is either replace the immobiliser unit in it's entirety which is expensive, or just simply bypass the damn thing on the problematic higher amp starter solenoid circuit.

A bypass is free and solves the problem for good, the car is still secure as the immobiliser still controls the fuel pump.

Bypassing the starter solenoid circuit that passes through the immobiliser means you'll be able to crank the starter motor without disengaging the immobiliser but the engine will never start without fuel.

The bypass as described above is by far the cheapest & most robust solution to a very common problem on these cars.

[EGB]

Yes Chimpo, I'm also bypassed but was getting hot start issues even with the Mr Beers Hot Start Kit fitted. Finally solved with a new 2kw starter motor. It may have been the starter solenoid but after 14 years the willing old gal deserves a new motor with solenoid for the extra £69 over a new solenoid only. Also, Does not need replacing with cooler (fatter) battery leads to starter motor. I may have been lucky with fix this time !

Edited by EGB on Friday 18th April 21:12