Protecting the outriggers

[Skyedriver]

Recent purchased Chimaera has the original outriggers which although solid have quite a bit of surface rust on them.
Someone in the past (probably the same guy who bypassed the fan switch) has put underseal on what I suspect is the visible half. I had thought of running emery paper around over the top to clean of the rust then a coat of something but there just isn't the clearance for a brush.
So I need a way of coating them sufficiently around all 360 degrees, and probably a spray.
I would even consider fully filling the upturned U of the floor with wax if that'll help.
Short of lifting the body, what has been found to be the best method of protection.
Thanks

[s p a c e m a n]

Cheap cheap... http://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/parts-and-p...

I used dynax s50, some photos and a link about half way down this load of old tripe..


http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...

Edited by s p a c e m a n on Thursday 24th April 06:03

[Skyedriver]

The write up on the other thread is very good, I don't often read a thread through from beginning to end.
The Dinatrol kit looks a bargain but I'd need my compressor and its 370 mile away
The Dynax that you used, is it air fed also or in a can?
Cheers

[s p a c e m a n]

It came in big aerosol cans, think I put a link in that thread. One can did both of my outriggers, I put a couple of extra layers on the front corners where they get pebble dashed by the wheel and it's all still looking pretty good


http://www.theultimatefinish.co.uk/bilt-hamber/dyn...

Edited by s p a c e m a n on Thursday 24th April 09:38

[nigelj77]

Skyedriver, I have a 98 on original outriggers, gave them a thorough inspection before I bought the car and beleive them to be solid.

I was aware of some flaking powder coating when I bought it so my 1st job was to get this cleaned up and painted asap, I did this like you said with emery cloth / tape but I just used hammerite smooth and a brush, I found that if you got enough on the brush you could force it over the top of the tubes and get decent coverage. I put 3 coats on to make sure if I did miss the odd spot 1st time around I deffo covered it on the 2nd or 3rd coat, it's messy and gets all over your hands and the floor if you dont cover it but I reckon I've prolonged the life of my chassis. Once the paint had completely cured I sprayed some waxoil all over the outriggers for further protection.

Hope this helps.

[Andy JB]

I bought my car in 2004 & chassis had been in a dry climate and after much inspection looked very solid as expected. First job i did was rub down any unstable coating and treat with various paint preps - long & messy but you can reach most of the way round if you are patient.

Then i treated high impact areas behind front wheels a few inches either side with the thicker rubberised waxoyl treatments so that stone chips didn't chip paint coating.

Every couple of years i use a long strip of rag wrapped around the top of the chassis tube soaked in various oil preps to ensure added moisture repellant is adhered top of tubes and confirms if any rust is present on the top tube. Also recoated the waxoyl intermitently - sounds a faf but we're talking 10 mins annually!

10 years on and chassis looks as good as it did - sure if you lifted chassis it would not look as good as the visible parts but you can tell if there's any rot on top same as the corner plates of you soak them with oil preps rust flakes would soon drop out with residue from areas you can't see.

Not all chassis are rotten if sensible precautions taken annually.