Discussion
Sardonicus said:
An oil filter seal/ring sitting in that recess could cope with 200 psi with ease IMO and your pump did not chew up in such short time Daz those gears would be quite happy running on a minimal film of oil without damage (even aerated) and your engine would of seized way before that kind of damage relative to scored up/worn gears that takes thousands of miles with knackered contaminated oil i.e cam lobe material floating around the sump 
many filters shipped dont have the seal ring seated fully home (yes even good ones) and this should always be checked before fitting inc making sure that on removal of old filter that the seal is still located on the used/old filter rather than sitting on the front cover/sandwich plate etc I have seen this on various makes of vehicles over the years more times than I care to remember 
Gears are ok but new ones are being fitted has a precaution ,the surface where the pump sits and the small plate is badly scoured ,caused from no oil . many filters shipped dont have the seal ring seated fully home (yes even good ones) and this should always be checked before fitting inc making sure that on removal of old filter that the seal is still located on the used/old filter rather than sitting on the front cover/sandwich plate etc I have seen this on various makes of vehicles over the years more times than I care to remember Iv`e had to change my name !
Edited by SILICONEKIDOBHP on Friday 11th July 18:20
If you have had enough crap through the engine to wreck the bearings then what's the chance of some crap still being in the oilways of the crank and block. I think it would be wise to strip it down and really check for crap and flush it. It would be a pity to put it back together and find that the bearings are scored as soon as you start it.
Aussie John said:
If you have had enough crap through the engine to wreck the bearings then what's the chance of some crap still being in the oilways of the crank and block. I think it would be wise to strip it down and really check for crap and flush it. It would be a pity to put it back together and find that the bearings are scored as soon as you start it.
Thats what i`d be doing. Hope its ok Daz.Alexdaredevils said:
Pull it out and clean/check everything and refresh all bearings/cams/lifters etc
A engine refresh is cheaper than a rebuild
How far do i go ,its not at the engine builders .. If it goes i`m ordering an LS ,having a respray and new interior . A engine refresh is cheaper than a rebuild
30k ive won on the premium bonds should do it .
bloody 'ell Daz, only just read this and so sorry mate. I'm with sardonicus on the filter, can't see it just blowing out if in situ correctly. Really hopefull that it all works out.Of course if you do have to pull it out, it could be an opportunity to fit some different pistons and a you know what
macdeb said:
bloody 'ell Daz, only just read this and so sorry mate. I'm with sardonicus on the filter, can't see it just blowing out if in situ correctly. Really hopefull that it all works out.Of course if you do have to pull it out, it could be an opportunity to fit some different pistons and a you know what
Its just not feasible ,I just can`t carry on .. it`s breaking my heart
SILICONEKIDOBHP said:
macdeb said:
bloody 'ell Daz, only just read this and so sorry mate. I'm with sardonicus on the filter, can't see it just blowing out if in situ correctly. Really hopefull that it all works out.Of course if you do have to pull it out, it could be an opportunity to fit some different pistons and a you know what
Its just not feasible ,I just can`t carry on .. it`s breaking my heart
It maybe a stupid question, but do you actually know how much damage has been caused to the rest of the engine? Have you considered replacing the pump and oil and just seeing how you get on? If it eats oil, then you know you'll need a rebuild. If it doesn't, it maybe okay? Either way, the end result is either rebuild or running it. Am I missing something here or is this a self-rationalization to spend a lot of money on an LS conversion? 
Chuffmeister said:
It maybe a stupid question, but do you actually know how much damage has been caused to the rest of the engine? Have you considered replacing the pump and oil and just seeing how you get on? If it eats oil, then you know you'll need a rebuild. If it doesn't, it maybe okay? Either way, the end result is either rebuild or running it. Am I missing something here or is this a self-rationalization to spend a lot of money on an LS conversion?
Its having a new oil pump ,oil pressure relief spring and new shells . Everything cleaned ,new oil "filter" coolant and see how it goes . I`m hoping its going to have good oil pressure .
Carrying on from my post ref dropping oil pressure on hard acceleration, I was able to test today after stripping and removing silicone from the pick up pipe, results are:
Still have pressure drop on hard acceleration but regular at over 4500rpm and the gauge drops gently so tried the following:
Sit stationary at 4500rpm and the gauge drops gently, more revs and more drop, back off to 4000 and it come back up,
No major fluctuations
My thought are
Possible voltage problem to gauge although no other instruments show any abnormalities
Sticking relief valve, reaches max pressure opens and then slow to close
Going to fit mechanical gauge to see if there realy is a pressure drop, but anyone else any thoughts
Rich
Still have pressure drop on hard acceleration but regular at over 4500rpm and the gauge drops gently so tried the following:
Sit stationary at 4500rpm and the gauge drops gently, more revs and more drop, back off to 4000 and it come back up,
No major fluctuations
My thought are
Possible voltage problem to gauge although no other instruments show any abnormalities
Sticking relief valve, reaches max pressure opens and then slow to close
Going to fit mechanical gauge to see if there realy is a pressure drop, but anyone else any thoughts
Rich
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