Trackday mods?
Discussion
Having completed my first trackday in the chim, I cant help but wanting more of the good stuff that improves handling. I want your opinions on what works and whats horseradish. Was chuffed by how the chim handled itself against more modern and more expensive equipment... wasn't surprised to see the mx5s in the rear view mirror though 
What Ive done so far:
AST adjustable suspension from racing green. Major difference in handling and predictability. No surprises anymore. Car is a bit lower. Camber is -1.5 all around.
Leven droplinks front and rear. Didnt notice much
Lightened flywheel. Now its 10kg, it was 12.5. Felt a nice difference, want to lighten more! Heard of a billet 5kg one!?
Decats, usual smooth bore, big K&N filter, shorter trumpets
Toyo 888 tires, huge difference!
CG lock seatbelt lock, helps some
Future:
Stage 3 4.6 hicomp engine. All parts ready, putting together this winter.
Brakes?!
4 point harness?
Roll hoop?
Lower rigid seats?
Bushes?
Removing stereo, which never is in use anyway
Moving battery? Was thinking two mc batteries linked to save space
What Ive done so far:
AST adjustable suspension from racing green. Major difference in handling and predictability. No surprises anymore. Car is a bit lower. Camber is -1.5 all around.
Leven droplinks front and rear. Didnt notice much
Lightened flywheel. Now its 10kg, it was 12.5. Felt a nice difference, want to lighten more! Heard of a billet 5kg one!?
Decats, usual smooth bore, big K&N filter, shorter trumpets
Toyo 888 tires, huge difference!
CG lock seatbelt lock, helps some
Future:
Stage 3 4.6 hicomp engine. All parts ready, putting together this winter.
Brakes?!
4 point harness?
Roll hoop?
Lower rigid seats?
Bushes?
Removing stereo, which never is in use anyway
Moving battery? Was thinking two mc batteries linked to save space
phazed said:
That's pretty much the recipes of my old 4.6!
Front camber was about 2 degrees, no toe in.
I'm gonna experiment with thicker ARBs now but you've just about got it.
What springs are you running, should be at least 400/450.
Don't know about the springs, does it say on them? Just bought the package from racing green, they installed and set it up. I was thinking that the ARBs are connected a bit far inwards on the Y-arms, have someone experimented with a wider ARB and moving the mounts?Front camber was about 2 degrees, no toe in.
I'm gonna experiment with thicker ARBs now but you've just about got it.
What springs are you running, should be at least 400/450.
OleVix said:
Future:
Stage 3 4.6 hicomp engine. All parts ready, putting together this winter.
Brakes?!
4 point harness?
Roll hoop?
Lower rigid seats?
Bushes?
Removing stereo, which never is in use anyway
Moving battery? Was thinking two mc batteries linked to save space
Nothing more important than better brakes, and worth spending disproportionately vs other stuff on them. I would definitely include a 4 point harness + a decent roll hoop. Stage 3 4.6 hicomp engine. All parts ready, putting together this winter.
Brakes?!
4 point harness?
Roll hoop?
Lower rigid seats?
Bushes?
Removing stereo, which never is in use anyway
Moving battery? Was thinking two mc batteries linked to save space
btw - your list pretty much matches my car - http://tvrengineer.co.uk/customer-work/orange-4-0-...
NickOrangeTVR said:
Nothing more important than better brakes, and worth spending disproportionately vs other stuff on them. I would definitely include a 4 point harness + a decent roll hoop.
btw - your list pretty much matches my car - http://tvrengineer.co.uk/customer-work/orange-4-0-...
Agree with Nick - being able to brake properly makes a big difference, but you must address the safety issues first. Roll hoop - I have the Roll centre racing one. And of course you can attach the upper mounts of your harnesses to it. Harnesses make a big difference to the on track experience, as you remove the need to brace yourself on cornering, even using standard Chim seats.btw - your list pretty much matches my car - http://tvrengineer.co.uk/customer-work/orange-4-0-...
As per previous posts,and taking into account what you've already done, id do the following..
Braking.
You can't make the most of the new found power, the wider rubber and the sorted chassis on your car - on track - until you can brake, as well as you can gain speed and get round corners.
And if you can justify the spend get some really good kit - - the 330mm AP set up on the front of my Chim, whilst not at all cheap, resulted in a far more capable car on track, the sort of stopping power that makes you NEED harnesses.
Bar/Harnesses.
A good roll bar,as well as adding a degree of safety on track, will add stiffness to the chassis ,that comined with the harnesses will allow you to better feel what the car is doing through corners and hold you in when those big AP's are doing there stuff.
My car runs Willans 3 point harnesses - good for track but still practicle for road use.
Seat.
I never got to this point, but if you can live with it a good race seat will add another level of union with the car - can be a touch impracticle though for road use though.
Other.
Making sure all wishbone bushes are in excellent and dialling a couple of degrees of camber into the front wheels is worthwhile - i never polybushed mine but the next progressive step would have been adjustable wishbones from Readman Racing - with a rose jointed set up you can really start having some fun setting the car up.
It all depends on how far you want to go with track days, it gets addictive though !
Have Fun
Braking.
You can't make the most of the new found power, the wider rubber and the sorted chassis on your car - on track - until you can brake, as well as you can gain speed and get round corners.
And if you can justify the spend get some really good kit - - the 330mm AP set up on the front of my Chim, whilst not at all cheap, resulted in a far more capable car on track, the sort of stopping power that makes you NEED harnesses.
Bar/Harnesses.
A good roll bar,as well as adding a degree of safety on track, will add stiffness to the chassis ,that comined with the harnesses will allow you to better feel what the car is doing through corners and hold you in when those big AP's are doing there stuff.
My car runs Willans 3 point harnesses - good for track but still practicle for road use.
Seat.
I never got to this point, but if you can live with it a good race seat will add another level of union with the car - can be a touch impracticle though for road use though.
Other.
Making sure all wishbone bushes are in excellent and dialling a couple of degrees of camber into the front wheels is worthwhile - i never polybushed mine but the next progressive step would have been adjustable wishbones from Readman Racing - with a rose jointed set up you can really start having some fun setting the car up.
It all depends on how far you want to go with track days, it gets addictive though !
Have Fun
Thanks guys, will check out the brakes next... I have 16" front, but the main pronblem with the Image wheels is that there is actually less clearance in depth now, from the back of the centre to the beginning of the caliper. Maybe I can find calipers that dont extrude too much, 2 pot in the back or 4 small pots? I have the tools to make adaptors myself
OleVix said:
Thanks guys, will check out the brakes next... I have 16" front, but the main pronblem with the Image wheels is that there is actually less clearance in depth now, from the back of the centre to the beginning of the caliper. Maybe I can find calipers that dont extrude too much, 2 pot in the back or 4 small pots? I have the tools to make adaptors myself
Rears - no need to upgrade, they are already 273mm IIRC. Just change the pads for something like Ferodo DS2500.Fronts - the Sierra Cosworth 288/289 kit seems favourite for 16 inch wheels, but you would be advised to find someone running them and try your wheels on their car before you waste £££££ (or Norwegian Krone) on something that will catch.
Is the car in Norway or England?
QBee said:
OleVix said:
Thanks guys, will check out the brakes next... I have 16" front, but the main pronblem with the Image wheels is that there is actually less clearance in depth now, from the back of the centre to the beginning of the caliper. Maybe I can find calipers that dont extrude too much, 2 pot in the back or 4 small pots? I have the tools to make adaptors myself
Rears - no need to upgrade, they are already 273mm IIRC. Just change the pads for something like Ferodo DS2500.Fronts - the Sierra Cosworth 288/289 kit seems favourite for 16 inch wheels, but you would be advised to find someone running them and try your wheels on their car before you waste £££££ (or Norwegian Krone) on something that will catch.
Is the car in Norway or England?
cossie engine, brakes, group A fenders etcThe most important mod if you are using R888s is a baffled sump. On fast left hand corners if you at the limit of grip without one you will get oil surge and destroy the engine. I speak from experience having destroyed engines this way in 2 of my TVR's. John Eales do a good one. It just bolts on about £400. A lot cheaper than a rebuild!
jesfirth said:
The most important mod if you are using R888s is a baffled sump. On fast left hand corners if you at the limit of grip without one you will get oil surge and destroy the engine. I speak from experience having destroyed engines this way in 2 of my TVR's. John Eales do a good one. It just bolts on about £400. A lot cheaper than a rebuild!
Can the existing sump be modded with baffles that work? Have fabrication and welding at hand TV8 said:
I havent had my current car on track but the thing that improved my speed on track the most in the last car was a couple of sessions of tuition.
Get some training!!!That will increase your times the most, and I say this from experience having done TONS of trackdays (and a little racing).
Fifth Gear did an item (not sure when) & they got someone to drive round a track & they tried different tyres, then different suspension, then different brakes, and they all made a slight difference...
They then gave the novice some tuition on track driving & the result was MILES better than any modification.
HTH
Mark
OleVix said:
jesfirth said:
The most important mod if you are using R888s is a baffled sump. On fast left hand corners if you at the limit of grip without one you will get oil surge and destroy the engine. I speak from experience having destroyed engines this way in 2 of my TVR's. John Eales do a good one. It just bolts on about £400. A lot cheaper than a rebuild!
Can the existing sump be modded with baffles that work? Have fabrication and welding at hand Gassing Station | Chimaera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff