Removal - pressure relief valve
Discussion
I have a slight weep from the circlip on my oil pressure relief valve and need to replace the seal. It's looks like one of those jobs that should be straight forward, but could potentially be a PIA! Has any body done this and can they offer advice? I was also wondering if this is possible on axle stands or whether it needs to be done on a lift? I would imagine that removing the driver's wheel would make life easier, but trying to do it with the car down low down on stands would be difficult.
Finally, what size O ring seal does it take? There has to be one cheaper than this!!!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Oil-Pressure-Pump-Relief...
I want to sort my oil leaks out... Just this and the bloody sump... Should be dry as a bone then!
Cheers
Chuffy
Finally, what size O ring seal does it take? There has to be one cheaper than this!!!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Oil-Pressure-Pump-Relief...
I want to sort my oil leaks out... Just this and the bloody sump... Should be dry as a bone then!
Cheers
Chuffy
Edited by Chuffmeister on Wednesday 6th August 09:52
Getting it out is not hard as long as you have decent circlip pliers.
It's not an o-ring more like a square section, I just always give them a good oiling and make sure they are inserted squarely as well as cleaning the bore /circlip area before removal/insertion.
I've only ever worked on them with the timing cover on the bench, that's fiddly enough for me In dire need I guess it could be done in-situ but not ideal.
It's not an o-ring more like a square section, I just always give them a good oiling and make sure they are inserted squarely as well as cleaning the bore /circlip area before removal/insertion.
I've only ever worked on them with the timing cover on the bench, that's fiddly enough for me In dire need I guess it could be done in-situ but not ideal.
spend said:
Getting it out is not hard as long as you have decent circlip pliers.
It's not an o-ring more like a square section, I just always give them a good oiling and make sure they are inserted squarely as well as cleaning the bore /circlip area before removal/insertion.
I've only ever worked on them with the timing cover on the bench, that's fiddly enough for me In dire need I guess it could be done in-situ but not ideal.
Cheers spend. Where do you source your replacements? £20 seems an awful lot of money for a small circlip and rubber washer!It's not an o-ring more like a square section, I just always give them a good oiling and make sure they are inserted squarely as well as cleaning the bore /circlip area before removal/insertion.
I've only ever worked on them with the timing cover on the bench, that's fiddly enough for me In dire need I guess it could be done in-situ but not ideal.
portzi said:
I saw this being done on Daz's engine , a small magnet on a rod was used to pull out the valve once the circlip retainer had been removed.
He doesn't need to touch that to change the seal, best to leave it in & make sure no muck gets into the important bits (the horrid little things that are clung onto most of my magnets are the last thing I'd want anywhere near that area IYSWIM) . The clip, cap & spring should 'fire' out leaving the valve still in the cover. spend said:
portzi said:
I saw this being done on Daz's engine , a small magnet on a rod was used to pull out the valve once the circlip retainer had been removed.
He doesn't need to touch that to change the seal, best to leave it in & make sure no muck gets into the important bits (the horrid little things that are clung onto most of my magnets are the last thing I'd want anywhere near that area IYSWIM) . The clip, cap & spring should 'fire' out leaving the valve still in the cover. Getting it off no probs
Get the wheel off and your in like spend says clean up first
Get the clip off but make sure you have the cap in control or it will have your eye out
As for putting it back in I managed to wedge the cap in the hole and then put the clip back
Good Luck it's one of them 10mins or 2 hours
Get the wheel off and your in like spend says clean up first
Get the clip off but make sure you have the cap in control or it will have your eye out
As for putting it back in I managed to wedge the cap in the hole and then put the clip back
Good Luck it's one of them 10mins or 2 hours
the piston bit usualy jams in the bore so take the clip off and give it a slight push in to get it out if its not moved already... when you put it back, push it beyond where it sits and it might just jam.. then put the clip in... if not you have to hold it in.. I used 8mm stud onto my chest leaving 2 hands free to fit the clip... you can do it easy on axle stands with the drivers side wheel off.
Just an update on this, as this thread will appear in the search engines and its a pain following incomplete links!
Anyway, I managed to find the correct seals for the PRV, so if anybody is interested, you need a Viton BS017 O-ring seal for the circlip on the PRV for the Serp. It took me a while to find.
However, I looked at the access to complete this job myself and decided to get Dan Taylor at Taylor TVR to do it, simply because it would be very difficult on axle stands. Dan used the same size O-Ring, but his were green in colour and slightly thicker than the ones pictured. Even on a ramp, it was a pig of a job to compress the spring and replace the circlip due to all the suspension and chassis in the way (front wheel removed). Everything was nice and clean when removed, which is good news. The original O-Ring had completely perished (see pic below).
Bottom line, job done and sump resealed again. Fitted a new pressure sender whilst the car was there.
Top work from Dan as usual!
Anyway, I managed to find the correct seals for the PRV, so if anybody is interested, you need a Viton BS017 O-ring seal for the circlip on the PRV for the Serp. It took me a while to find.
However, I looked at the access to complete this job myself and decided to get Dan Taylor at Taylor TVR to do it, simply because it would be very difficult on axle stands. Dan used the same size O-Ring, but his were green in colour and slightly thicker than the ones pictured. Even on a ramp, it was a pig of a job to compress the spring and replace the circlip due to all the suspension and chassis in the way (front wheel removed). Everything was nice and clean when removed, which is good news. The original O-Ring had completely perished (see pic below).
Bottom line, job done and sump resealed again. Fitted a new pressure sender whilst the car was there.
Top work from Dan as usual!
I struggled to get the cap and o-ring back in place when I did this job, the cap kept pinging off when I tried to press it back in place. To overcome this I put a hose clip around the cap and o-ring and put it in the freezer overnight. This flattened the o-ring a bit and shrunk the cap too. The clip was removed and along with a whisper of grease around the o-ring, was just enough to allow me to press the cap back in place. A few taps with a length of dowel and a hammer knocked the cap further into the hole to allow me to replace the circlip. The cap was quite firmly in place before the circlip went in. Job done.
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