Engine out - what else

[WokingWedger]

My engine is out and in the safe hands of John Eales.

The gearbox is with John Reid (Grantura engineering/Readman Racing)

Chassis in the engine bay is being cleaned back and treated where necessary.

Fuel pipes being replaced.

Heat resistant wing and bulkhead shields are being replaced.

What else is worth doing whilst the engine is out (cant go overboard as a (the) garage is doing the work, but don't want to regret not doing something later.

Any suggestions ?

[MADMAX2]

Diff/gearbox/engine mounts

[WokingWedger]

Oops, I forgot to mention they are being changed.

Good shout though, thanks.

Any thing else ?

[Hedgehopper]

How about upgrading the positive battery cable to a decent size and sleeving it with heat-proof wrap over the clutch housing.

[WokingWedger]

Hedgehopper said:

How about upgrading the positive battery cable to a decent size and sleeving it with heat-proof wrap over the clutch housing.

Ah. Is that a known weakness? High resistance ?

[Chuffmeister]

WokingWedger said:

Ah. Is that a known weakness? High resistance ?

Cheap TVR cable. This job would cost you about £30 for a couple metres of 50mm tinned copper cable and about 20 mins to fit with the engine out. Also a good opportunity to add a couple of earths from the battery.

Usually, the hardest part is pulling the cable through the bulkhead grommet due to access. Should be easy with the engine out.

[Zippee]

Pretty obvious but clutch and fly, pretty much just cost of parts. Manifolds coated (Zirtec?)

[Hedgehopper]

A problem can develop where the car won't re-start when hot after a short stop, getting petrol for example. My car is developing this problem, it will re-start if, say, stalled in traffic but not after a 10 minute stop until cooled down.

Experts on this forum suggest this is caused by the thin, very long battery cable and heat sink from where the cable loops over the transmission at the rear of the engine.

[MADMAX2]

Diff/gearbox/engine mounts

[WokingWedger]

Thanks all.

I will talk to the garage about the cable.

Clutch has only done 5000 miles, flywheel is already as light as it is advisable to go, and is being balanced with crank.

Any thing else anybody can think off ?

[rev-erend]

Exhaust .. check condition and replace or have it coated.

Camcoat and others can help.

[WokingWedger]

rev-erend said:

Exhaust .. check condition and replace or have it coated.

Camcoat and others can help.

Hi Alan, yes I will check the whole system (one of the 'flexible' bits looks a bit dented but not leaking).

Not sure about having the manifolds coated though !

I did wonder about having the pre cats removed ( to reduce heat and maybe release a couple more horses) , but I don't really want it any louder.

[FlipFlopGriff]

Change the exhaust gaskets and put ARP studs in as well as Nordlok washers. While the manifolds are off you may want to paint them and/or remove the precats.
I'd change the fuel pipes at the rear of the engine also.
Silicon water pipes and stainless water pipes as you've got to change the cooling fluid?
FFG

[TVR Beaver]

Yes, pre-cats out.. stud kit on heads and mains.. cross bolted... everthing individualy balanced... new harmonic damper....
What is JE doing.. I'm assuming new pistons if so where did you get the new ones?... you may want to think about full seal rings

[WokingWedger]

FlipFlopGriff said:

Change the exhaust gaskets and put ARP studs in as well as Nordlok washers. While the manifolds are off you may want to paint them and/or remove the precats.
I'd change the fuel pipes at the rear of the engine also.
Silicon water pipes and stainless water pipes as you've got to change the cooling fluid?
FFG

Fuel pipes being done, hoses already Silicone and Stainless.

ARP studs and Nordlok, noted thanks will talk to garage.

[WokingWedger]

TVR Beaver said:

Yes, pre-cats out.. stud kit on heads and mains.. cross bolted... everthing individualy balanced... new harmonic damper....
What is JE doing.. I'm assuming new pistons if so where did you get the new ones?... you may want to think about full seal rings

All of the above except removing pre cats at the moment.

Interestingly John said the play between pin and piston isn't really noticeable, but the bores are (were)oval, so may have been piston slap of sorts.

I am taking no chances, the lot is being replaced.

As its having top hat liners fitted, its also having new, very slightly larger diameter pistons, and longer con rods with a bearing in the little end.

Its also having a cam retainer plate fitted.

[TVR Beaver]

yup.. mine already had the cam retainer so wasn't that.. my bores are top limit (0.05 clear on pistons.. most racers build to this if not bigger)but new pistons have cured it
what pistons and rods are you using??.. are you sticking with the std crank??.

BTW.. with all the oil washed out my pins appeared spot on.. but I'm still convinced that was the problem.. small ends will help a lot

[WokingWedger]

TVR Beaver said:

yup.. mine already had the cam retainer so wasn't that.. my bores are top limit (0.05 clear on pistons.. most racers build to this if not bigger)but new pistons have cured it
what pistons and rods are you using??.. are you sticking with the std crank??.

BTW.. with all the oil washed out my pins appeared spot on.. but I'm still convinced that was the problem.. small ends will help a lot

I was told what pistons / rods they are , but cant remember.

I will ask when I next speak to John.

I am using the existing crank as it appears to be in very good nick.

[TVR Beaver]

sounds good!.. longer rods will improve BHP and torque

yes.. find out whats been used

[FlipFlopGriff]

WokingWedger said:

Fuel pipes being done, hoses already Silicone and Stainless.

ARP studs and Nordlok, noted thanks will talk to garage.

You can get the gasket, studs and washers from ACT.
FFG