Ride height?

Ride height?

Author
Discussion

l6rth

Original Poster:

452 posts

163 months

Monday 22nd September 2014
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Hi all, what should the ride height be with 18" spiders? My first chim was 145mm rear and 125mm front from outrigger to ground should this be the same no matter what size the wheels? It's currently 165mm read and 130mm front and I think it looks high at the back. I am going to stiffen the ride abit as well.

Thanks

Rob

s p a c e m a n

10,777 posts

148 months

Monday 22nd September 2014
quotequote all
Beware of stiffening the rear as there's not much weight back there so if there isn't enough damping it will just skip about all over the place, make the front as hard as you can bare though if you want. I'm not the man to ask on ride height, mine is as low as I could get away with biggrin

QBee

20,980 posts

144 months

Monday 22nd September 2014
quotequote all
You may need a slightly higher ride height with 18 inch wheels on the front. About 20/25 mm difference is about correct. Don't forget to use higher aspect ratio rear tyres. Your rears are probably 5-10 mm too high.

What Spaceman says re hardness of dampers. I have the rears soft, even on track days. The fronts are harder, but how hard depends on road or track, and aspect ratio and load index of your tyres.

SILICONEKID345HP

14,997 posts

231 months

Monday 22nd September 2014
quotequote all
Two fingers for the front and three for the rear .

Richard 858

1,882 posts

135 months

Monday 22nd September 2014
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These methods of measurement are all based on a symmetrical body, evenly formed wheel arches and / or level & symmetrical outriggers - not a chance IMHO for accurate measurement. I believe (and as advised by an expert) the only way to measure accurately is when up on a lift, using a straight edge and measure from the chassis (I'll agree that this is assuming a straight chassis, but this is the best reference, again IMHO).

QBee

20,980 posts

144 months

Monday 22nd September 2014
quotequote all
Richard 858 said:
These methods of measurement are all based on a symmetrical body, evenly formed wheel arches and / or level & symmetrical outriggers - not a chance IMHO for accurate measurement. I believe (and as advised by an expert) the only way to measure accurately is when up on a lift, using a straight edge and measure from the chassis (I'll agree that this is assuming a straight chassis, but this is the best reference, again IMHO).
That's what the TVR pros do. Get the rear lower wishbones level (parallel to the ground), then set the front as near as possible to level

jojackson4

3,026 posts

137 months

Monday 22nd September 2014
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SILICONEKID345HP said:
Two fingers for the front and three for the rear .
I thought we were on about hights of suspension silly

jojackson4

3,026 posts

137 months

Monday 22nd September 2014
quotequote all
145 front 155 rear

jojackson4

3,026 posts

137 months

Monday 22nd September 2014
quotequote all
145 front 155 rear

l6rth

Original Poster:

452 posts

163 months

Tuesday 23rd September 2014
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My garage floor is level, so if I use a digital level to get the wish bones level is this optimum ride height?

QBee

20,980 posts

144 months

Tuesday 23rd September 2014
quotequote all
You need enough room for the wheels and tyres.
So tell me please what size tyres you have on the spiders and we can do some maths.

ChilliWhizz

11,992 posts

161 months

Tuesday 23rd September 2014
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l6rth said:
My garage floor is level, so if I use a digital level to get the wish bones level is this optimum ride height?
Great question, and oddly one I was asking myself earlier today... Had my geo set up by a very respected and well known TVR specialist November last year, who's name I don't think I'm supposed to mention. Ok, it was Matt Smith biggrin

Anyway, I was looking at beastie today (so no different to any other day) and I did focus in on the gaps between the top (underside) of the wheel arches and the wheels... Now, I need to get underneath her and have a look (the car), but I'm kinda assuming that the wish bones are level with the planet's surface, however, the more I look the more I think I'm riding a bit high.... She'd easily go down (yes still talking about the car) another inch or more without looking 'lowered'...

I'll check this out and report back.....

Chilli smile

QBee

20,980 posts

144 months

Tuesday 23rd September 2014
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I know Beastie spends 99.999% of the time stationary, but on the odd occasional trip out you do need to allow enough room underneath the arches (I just know you'll get that reference hehe ) for Norfolk's worst roads to compress fully the suspension....

zed4

7,248 posts

222 months

Wednesday 24th September 2014
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I've been fiddling around with the ride heights on mine for ages, can't really get it right. It looks good, but it scrapes on the ground at times (I think it's part of the exhaust bracket that's scraping) and it's much worse with a full boot load. I'm going to lift the rear up slightly and also try putting a couple of clicks on the rear GGP shocks to stop the bouncing.

I really could do with finding someone who could corner weight it and set it all up properly .

phazed

21,844 posts

204 months

Wednesday 24th September 2014
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zed4 said:
I've been fiddling around with the ride heights on mine for ages, can't really get it right. It looks good, but it scrapes on the ground at times (I think it's part of the exhaust bracket that's scraping) and it's much worse with a full boot load. I'm going to lift the rear up slightly and also try putting a couple of clicks on the rear GGP shocks to stop the bouncing.

I really could do with finding someone who could corner weight it and set it all up properly .
Take a day trip to Mat. What you spend on fuel you'll save on his reasonable prices and you can have a good gander underneath and take his advice on any issues.

zed4

7,248 posts

222 months

Wednesday 24th September 2014
quotequote all
phazed said:
zed4 said:
I've been fiddling around with the ride heights on mine for ages, can't really get it right. It looks good, but it scrapes on the ground at times (I think it's part of the exhaust bracket that's scraping) and it's much worse with a full boot load. I'm going to lift the rear up slightly and also try putting a couple of clicks on the rear GGP shocks to stop the bouncing.

I really could do with finding someone who could corner weight it and set it all up properly .
Take a day trip to Mat. What you spend on fuel you'll save on his reasonable prices and you can have a good gander underneath and take his advice on any issues.
Any particular Mat? hehe

Edit: found this, suspect this is who you mean... http://www.matsmithsportscars.com/264/wheel-alignm... That is a long way away!!

Edited by zed4 on Wednesday 24th September 09:14

phazed

21,844 posts

204 months

Wednesday 24th September 2014
quotequote all
That's the man.

I took a spin from Surrey, spent half a day there.

Did the geo, fitted my digital oil pressure/temp gauge and sorted a few minors.

The charge was more then fair, good info and banter, good bloke!

zed4

7,248 posts

222 months

Wednesday 24th September 2014
quotequote all
phazed said:
That's the man.

I took a spin from Surrey, spent half a day there.

Did the geo, fitted my digital oil pressure/temp gauge and sorted a few minors.

The charge was more then fair, good info and banter, good bloke!
Ok, the other options are Neil Garner (they seem to do pretty well in the racing scene!) and Plans Motorsport.

phazed

21,844 posts

204 months

Wednesday 24th September 2014
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Neil's good, I assume he has the equipment?

zed4

7,248 posts

222 months

Wednesday 24th September 2014
quotequote all
phazed said:
Neil's good, I assume he has the equipment?
We'll find out on Saturday! But he sets up his TVR and Mosler racing cars so I assume so...