Rusted Outriggers - Any advice?

[portzi]

davelittlewood said:

Looks good, where is this?

Deutschland.

[pb450]

I agree with pretty much all that is written here. I had the full chassis jobbie done earlier this year by Dan Taylor. (Recommended!) Outriggers weren't TOO bad but original powder coat was flaking like there was no tomorrow - all over!

Doing the full job at this point was a no brainer but of course,
I T' S N O T C H E A P! It would have been total madness to leave the flakey chassis as it was and so a full strip down, repair, blast, metallisation and epoxy coating was completed. It's better than new now and there's no way I could have done it myself. It will last longer than me now! (58 today. Yay!)

If it's a keeper, the man-maths does actually sense. All these cars are reaching an age where the riggers WILL need doing sooner or later. It's false economy not to do some sort of a good job for re-sale purposes alone. A decent job seems to be £1500 - £1800 and you will probably get most of this back when you sell. (Everyone likes shiny new outriggers.)

So you pays your money and you takes your choice. It is a painful fact of Chimaera ownership.

Oh yeah, agree with all the commentary on epoxy being better than powder coat. It's another no-brainer.

Edited by pb450 on Friday 31st October 19:41

Edited by pb450 on Friday 31st October 19:42

[vaurien]

I agree that quality work on chassis is one investment which comes back.

The base-material of powder-coating is mostly epoxyd, polylester or vinylester. And sure if the
coating comes shortly after the blasting it will be the better solution. But powder-coating and
galvanzing are also not a garant as rust - bend - forward. We place after powder-coating



one layer more of epoxyd-color and after stone-chips-coating



and at last 1-2 layer polyurethane color.....



This we do by hot-dip galvanized chassis too.

By chassis maded from stainless steel also we place some coating over.

















It would be a madness by one chassis - refit to economize on the protection like TVR.


Cherrio

Gregor

Edited by vaurien on Saturday 1st November 15:23

[vaurien]

I agree that quality work on chassis is one investment which comes back.

The base-material of powder-coating is mostly epoxyd, polylester or vinylester. And sure if the
coating comes shortly after the blasting it will be the better solution. But powder-coating and
galvanzing are also not a garant as rust - bend - forward. We place after powder-coating



one layer more of epoxyd-color and after stone-chips-coating



and at last 1-2 layer polyurethane color.....



This we do by hot-dip galvanized chassis too.

By chassis maded from stainless steel also we place some coating over.

















It would be a madeness by one chassis - refit to economize on the protection like TVR.


Cherrio

Gregor

Edited by vaurien on Saturday 1st November 15:34

[TJC46]

davelittlewood said:

The bigger issue for me is two pack epoxy or powder coat?

2 pack paint all the way.


We use this system to do maintenance and project work on Carrington. This is a former Shell petrochemical site and the paint is used on structural steelwork and pipework containing all kinds of chemicals.

We use it as a 3 coat system. All paints are from international.

First coat is a base primer no. 356 details are here http://www.paints4trade.com/interplus-356-primer-2...

2nd coat is an undercoat no. 670 details here: http://www.paints4trade.com/interseal-670hs-259816...

3rd coat is a high gloss finish no. 990 details here: http://www.paints4trade.com/interthane-990-259629-...

All the paints are available in 5 ltr tins, and each type of paint comes with the relevant curing agent.

One coat of each is the norm, but on my chassis i went OTT and applied 2 coats of each.

I shot blasted and painted my chassis whilst doing a full body lift using very similar to the above paint system.

ITS almost 5 years on and it still looks as good as new.

Edited by TJC46 on Saturday 1st November 16:03

[ChimpOnGas]

TJC46 said:

2 pack paint all the way.


We use this system to do maintenance and project work on Carrington. This is a former Shell petrochemical site and the paint is used on structural steelwork and pipework containing all kinds of chemicals.

We use it as a 3 coat system. All paints are from international.

First coat is a base primer no. 356 details are here http://www.paints4trade.com/interplus-356-primer-2...

2nd coat is an undercoat no. 670 details here: http://www.paints4trade.com/interseal-670hs-259816...

3rd coat is a high gloss finish no. 990 details here: http://www.paints4trade.com/interthane-990-259629-...

All the paints are available in 5 ltr tins, and each type of paint comes with the relevant curing agent.

One coat of each is the norm, but on my chassis i went OTT and applied 2 coats of each.

I shot blasted and painted my chassis whilst doing a full body lift using very similar to the above paint system.

ITS almost 5 years on and it still looks as good as new.

Edited by TJC46 on Saturday 1st November 16:03

Now that's a proper job using proper coatings.

Powder coat is really is to be avoided in my opinion.

[Twistygit]

hi chimp I asked earlier but maybe you didn't see it, I asked what all the different coatings were for and what about epoxy straight on to bare metal. if you could explain your process I would much apreciate it.
thanks Graeme

[portzi]

ChimpOnGas said:

TJC46 said:

2 pack paint all the way.


We use this system to do maintenance and project work on Carrington. This is a former Shell petrochemical site and the paint is used on structural steelwork and pipework containing all kinds of chemicals.

We use it as a 3 coat system. All paints are from international.

First coat is a base primer no. 356 details are here http://www.paints4trade.com/interplus-356-primer-2...

2nd coat is an undercoat no. 670 details here: http://www.paints4trade.com/interseal-670hs-259816...

3rd coat is a high gloss finish no. 990 details here: http://www.paints4trade.com/interthane-990-259629-...

All the paints are available in 5 ltr tins, and each type of paint comes with the relevant curing agent.

One coat of each is the norm, but on my chassis i went OTT and applied 2 coats of each.

I shot blasted and painted my chassis whilst doing a full body lift using very similar to the above paint system.

ITS almost 5 years on and it still looks as good as new.

Edited by TJC46 on Saturday 1st November 16:03

Now that's a proper job using proper coatings.

Powder coat is really is to be avoided in my opinion.

I have mine powdered coated then l used some epoxy resin l found in a large steel container.lt was applied and cured. Nearly 3 years on and as good as the first day it was applied.

TVR powder coating was shocking no prep, applied on an already corroded chassis it didn't stand a chance. So its amazing that so many chassis have survived 20 years! !!!!

[NickM450]

TJC46 said:

2 pack paint all the way.


We use this system to do maintenance and project work on Carrington. This is a former Shell petrochemical site and the paint is used on structural steelwork and pipework containing all kinds of chemicals.

We use it as a 3 coat system. All paints are from international.

First coat is a base primer no. 356 details are here http://www.paints4trade.com/interplus-356-primer-2...

2nd coat is an undercoat no. 670 details here: http://www.paints4trade.com/interseal-670hs-259816...

3rd coat is a high gloss finish no. 990 details here: http://www.paints4trade.com/interthane-990-259629-...

All the paints are available in 5 ltr tins, and each type of paint comes with the relevant curing agent.

One coat of each is the norm, but on my chassis i went OTT and applied 2 coats of each.

I shot blasted and painted my chassis whilst doing a full body lift using very similar to the above paint system.

ITS almost 5 years on and it still looks as good as new.

Edited by TJC46 on Saturday 1st November 16:03

Wow, that certainly is OTT but by the looks of it that could be the ultimate solution!?

Out of interest how much paint is used per coat? I see it comes in at £100+ per 5 litre

I am under no illusion that mine will need doing at some point in the next few years and I'm already putting the pennies away for a total chassis/body of job and this has really peaked my interest from all the options that I have seen.

Nick

[ClassiChimi]

The chassis is clearly the weakest link, any form of correctly applied protective coating applied now will be far better than the original chassis powder coating, it's amazing they've lasted this long!
It's huge cost but the chassis will last another 20-30 years if treated well I reckon!

It's the greatest reward to have secured the car against rot,, driving it seems different,,,,, fan bloody tastic.

[portzi]

ClassiChimi said:

The chassis is clearly the weakest link, any form of correctly applied protective coating applied now will be far better than the original chassis powder coating, it's amazing they've lasted this long!
It's huge cost but the chassis will last another 20-30 years if treated well I reckon!

It's the greatest reward to have secured the car against rot,, driving it seems different,,,,, fan bloody tastic.

The main area's of course are the out riggers and water from the windscreen running into the engine bay. This was my main area of my chassis rot. So to stop this, instead of refitting that crappy gauze mesh at the bottom of the windscreen that lets water pass through it and into the engine bay and underneath l made a solid piece out of aluminum using the original as a template and put a 4mm high lip to catch the water. I have fitted water drain pipes at each end to get the water away from engine bay and tunnel area.

[vaurien]

International Paint make great products for the maritim areal. I´m a sailor and know they very well.

But the base of they products are the same like I wrote before. So is into

Interthane 990 = polyurethane / Interseal 670HS & Interplus 356 = epoxyd

this are 1:1 the same base material like like for powder-coating.

For shure the hot coating is the better solution as the cold coating. Certainly is the was of coating
and the quality an important factor. With good products from DuPont, Azko Nobel, Yotun, BASF etc.
you will get now problems. But mostly here is the problem "price" of material. To blast the chassis asap
to coat the chassis is very important too.

What a lot of people forget and not compare is the standard of chassis protection by cars maded from sheet.
To reduce the risk that some other hard part/stone will damage the surface they take a layer "soft coat"
based of polyurethane before the painted layer. It´s called "stone chips protection" if I know it well in
english. Without it all cars from sheet would have a lot of problems by the chassis. Why the chassis of TVR
is other ? Only the body dont need this rust protection......but the chassis for shure.


Regards

Gregor

P.S.: Sorry for my bad engish.

[portzi]

vaurien said:

International Paint make great products for the maritim areal. I´m a sailor and know they very well.

But the base of they products are the same like I wrote before. So is into

Interthane 990 = polyurethane / Interseal 670HS & Interplus 356 = epoxyd

this are 1:1 the same base material like like for powder-coating.

For shure the hot coating is the better solution as the cold coating. Certainly is the was of coating
and the quality an important factor. With good products from DuPont, Azko Nobel, Yotun, BASF etc.
you will get now problems. But mostly here is the problem "price" of material. To blast the chassis asap
to coat the chassis is very important too.

What a lot of people forget and not compare is the standard of chassis protection by cars maded from sheet.
To reduce the risk that some other hard part/stone will damage the surface they take a layer "soft coat"
based of polyurethane before the painted layer. It´s called "stone chips protection" if I know it well in
english. Without it all cars from sheet would have a lot of problems by the chassis. Why the chassis of TVR
is other ? Only the body dont need this rust protection......but the chassis for shure.


Regards

Gregor

P.S.: Sorry for my bad engish.

Hi Gregor. I am in total agreement in what you trying to say . I think what your trying to tell us is that you can't do a professional repair unless your willing to pay out the money on quality products. You can do most things on the cheap and shop around for cheaper quotes whether its; sandblasting, paint, epoxy resin or powder coating. Its the quality of the finished product that counts and a quality product costs money and takes time to achieve correctly.

Mark

[TJC46]

NickM450 said:

Wow, that certainly is OTT but by the looks of it that could be the ultimate solution!?

Out of interest how much paint is used per coat? I see it comes in at £100+ per 5 litre

I am under no illusion that mine will need doing at some point in the next few years and I'm already putting the pennies away for a total chassis/body of job and this has really peaked my interest from all the options that I have seen.

Nick

A 5 litre tin of each is more than enough. I would say about 1 litre of paint for each coat.

We purchase in large quantities direct from international paints and the cost is about 40 quid for 5 litres.

You have to mix equated amounts of paint and the curing agent. This will give you a timescale of about 2 to 3 hours to apply. For this reason its best to mix just 1 ltr at a time.

[portzi]

TJC46 said:

NickM450 said:

Wow, that certainly is OTT but by the looks of it that could be the ultimate solution!?

Out of interest how much paint is used per coat? I see it comes in at £100+ per 5 litre

I am under no illusion that mine will need doing at some point in the next few years and I'm already putting the pennies away for a total chassis/body of job and this has really peaked my interest from all the options that I have seen.

Nick

A 5 litre tin of each is more than enough. I would say about 1 litre of paint for each coat.

We purchase in large quantities direct from international paints and the cost is about 40 quid for 5 litres.

You have to mix equated amounts of paint and the curing agent. This will give you a timescale of about 2 to 3 hours to apply. For this reason its best to mix just 1 ltr at a time.

That is a very good price for piece of mind and a chassis that will last 20 years plus.

[NickM450]

portzi said:

TJC46 said:

NickM450 said:

Wow, that certainly is OTT but by the looks of it that could be the ultimate solution!?

Out of interest how much paint is used per coat? I see it comes in at £100+ per 5 litre

I am under no illusion that mine will need doing at some point in the next few years and I'm already putting the pennies away for a total chassis/body of job and this has really peaked my interest from all the options that I have seen.

Nick

A 5 litre tin of each is more than enough. I would say about 1 litre of paint for each coat.

We purchase in large quantities direct from international paints and the cost is about 40 quid for 5 litres.

You have to mix equated amounts of paint and the curing agent. This will give you a timescale of about 2 to 3 hours to apply. For this reason its best to mix just 1 ltr at a time.

That is a very good price for piece of mind and a chassis that will last 20 years plus.

Indeed it is, enough for 2 full applications. Could even split the cost between two like minded PHers

[vaurien]

portzi said:

vaurien said:

International Paint make great products for the maritim areal. I´m a sailor and know they very well.

But the base of they products are the same like I wrote before. So is into

Interthane 990 = polyurethane / Interseal 670HS & Interplus 356 = epoxyd

this are 1:1 the same base material like like for powder-coating.

For shure the hot coating is the better solution as the cold coating. Certainly is the was of coating
and the quality an important factor. With good products from DuPont, Azko Nobel, Yotun, BASF etc.
you will get now problems. But mostly here is the problem "price" of material. To blast the chassis asap
to coat the chassis is very important too.

What a lot of people forget and not compare is the standard of chassis protection by cars maded from sheet.
To reduce the risk that some other hard part/stone will damage the surface they take a layer "soft coat"
based of polyurethane before the painted layer. It´s called "stone chips protection" if I know it well in
english. Without it all cars from sheet would have a lot of problems by the chassis. Why the chassis of TVR
is other ? Only the body dont need this rust protection......but the chassis for shure.


Regards

Gregor

P.S.: Sorry for my bad engish.

Hi Gregor. I am in total agreement in what you trying to say . I think what your trying to tell us is that you can't do a professional repair unless your willing to pay out the money on quality products. You can do most things on the cheap and shop around for cheaper quotes whether its; sandblasting, paint, epoxy resin or powder coating. Its the quality of the finished product that counts and a quality product costs money and takes time to achieve correctly.

Mark

Mark....you are my man.......if my wife would only understand me so like you !









Cheerio


Gregor

[CHEF_GOLF]

Hi I had mine done earlier this year by my mechanic ( looks after race cars)
He did it with the body in situ. Filled it with in coloured wax oil ( as contains a small amount if water so not to rust) then wax oiled the whole underside of the car. Mine were in prices before ( check one of my threads to see the pics before and after)
An all round excellent job and less than a grand. He's in Yorkshire
If you want his number let me know

[JPW231]

CHEF_GOLF said:

Hi I had mine done earlier this year by my mechanic ( looks after race cars)
He did it with the body in situ. Filled it with in coloured wax oil ( as contains a small amount if water so not to rust) then wax oiled the whole underside of the car. Mine were in prices before ( check one of my threads to see the pics before and after)
An all round excellent job and less than a grand. He's in Yorkshire
If you want his number let me know

Long time ago, but do you have any info on who you used for outriggers?

[Jon Brown]

I did mine with the 2" body lift and used the RT racing kit. it takes time but much easier than doing the whole body off.