Oil what's your poison

Oil what's your poison

Author
Discussion

Hoofa

Original Poster:

3,151 posts

208 months

Friday 31st October 2014
quotequote all
Ok tried most and frankly going back to good old valvoline vr1 20/50 , how many other use this ?

Tried Millers 15/60 and it's too expensive and I cannot see the point, anyone do track days on vr1 ?

The write up for the oil looks ok

QBee

20,973 posts

144 months

Friday 31st October 2014
quotequote all
I do track days and use Shell Helx Racing 10w60. The type of oil was recommended by Castrol's Technical Manager, the Shell because you can buy it at £107 for a 20 litre drum. I have found it keeps the oil pressure sane on track.

ChimpOnGas

9,637 posts

179 months

Friday 31st October 2014
quotequote all


Fully synthetic, high zinc content, £30 for 5 litres.

Perfect for an RV8 TVR.

Buy it here.....

http://www.classic-oils.net/Product-349/Products-b...

Pupp

12,223 posts

272 months

Friday 31st October 2014
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5w50 Valvoline VR1; ester based full synthetic with zinc. Usually on offer at Euro CP

Oldred_V8S

3,715 posts

238 months

Friday 31st October 2014
quotequote all
Penrite HPR40
HPR 40 25W-70

Recommended to me by a guy that builds MGBV8 racing engines for a living.

Application

HPR 40 is designed for use in 4, 6 & 8+ cylinder naturally aspirated, supercharged and turbocharged petrol engines. It is particularly suited for use under high load conditions such as towing and competition or where ambient temperatures are high as well as where SAE 25W-60 grade oils were originally recommended by the manufacturer or where SAE 40 grade oil was originally recommended. It also provides added protection engines that are showing signs of excessive oil consumption and to maintain oil pressure.

HPR 40 meets the requirements of API SL and is a full zinc formulation engine oil for greater protection of cam shafts, lifters and other internal engine parts from wear. No further zinc or other additive is needed with this product.

HPR 40 has been proven for years in race and competition conditions where it has an unequalled reputation for protection in engines requiring a high performance mineral oil. It is the product of choice for many competitors running competition vehicles in circuit & drag racing, rallying, drifting, hill climb, targa, time trials and regularity.

HPR 40 is compatible with petrol & E10 for on road use & racing fuels such as Methanol, Nitro, Avgas, Alcohol & E85 for competition use.

HPR 40 features the Penrite EXTRA TEN in the oil's SAE rating. This technology helps protect your engine by using a normal start up viscosity with an oil that has a higher operating temperature viscosity. This improves engine oil film strength, lowering frictional heat whilst providing an extra layer of anti wear protection over standard SAE grade oils, reducing engine wear in all driving conditions.

Pupp

12,223 posts

272 months

Friday 31st October 2014
quotequote all
Oldred_V8S said:
HPR 40 features the Penrite EXTRA TEN in the oil's SAE rating. This technology helps protect your engine by using a normal start up viscosity with an oil that has a higher operating temperature viscosity. This improves engine oil film strength, lowering frictional heat whilst providing an extra layer of anti wear protection over standard SAE grade oils, reducing engine wear in all driving conditions.
You really suggesting a 25w is 'normal start up viscocity'. Maybe for Australia smile

Hoofa

Original Poster:

3,151 posts

208 months

Friday 31st October 2014
quotequote all
Think what is interesting is the grades, spoke to rob who built the engine and he said just stick with 20/50 , Just why would you choose other grades ? Seams everyone has a peference and after all this is an old design engine

Edited by Hoofa on Friday 31st October 20:22

Richard 858

1,882 posts

135 months

Friday 31st October 2014
quotequote all
It probably comes down to a combination of what you use your RV8 for, i.e. the mixture of hard & soft driving, state of modification, how often you're prepared to change the oil & filter / how many miles between changes, general condition of engine components etc. As there seems to be a general trend toward spending a few quid on general improvements why would you skimp on what is the blood of the engine ? Anyhow, I've been on Millers 20w60 CSS (semi synthetic with added zinc) since fitting supercharger, have done approx. 2500 miles, but did change oil & filter after 500 miles just as a safety measure having had most of the top end exposed at various stages. Not the cheapest but gives me some piece of mind, if I was to use it much in the winter I'd probably drop to a 15w50 or 60 though. All IMHO of course !

Hoofa

Original Poster:

3,151 posts

208 months

Friday 31st October 2014
quotequote all
5w/50 your right pupp good price from eurocar parts ! Any downsides to the 5w bit ?

SILICONEKID345HP

14,997 posts

231 months

Friday 31st October 2014
quotequote all
Hoofa said:
5w/50 your right pupp good price from eurocar parts ! Any downsides to the 5w bit ?
I thought you would of bought the best money can buy biggrin

TVRJAS

2,391 posts

129 months

Friday 31st October 2014
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Castrol Magnatec 10w40

Don't do track days..

Pupp

12,223 posts

272 months

Friday 31st October 2014
quotequote all
Hoofa said:
5w/50 your right pupp good price from eurocar parts ! Any downsides to the 5w bit ?
No; it's a benefit. The low temperature viscosity allows the oil to get pumped where it's needed much quicker than a 20w or 25w. At 100degC The reference temperature for the upper range viscosity), the oil performs as a 50 grade. Only possible downside is the additive pack used to extend the working range might be slightly less stable than for one spanning a narrower range but hardly a concern when it's being changed at 6k miles or less.

Alexdaredevils

5,697 posts

179 months

Friday 31st October 2014
quotequote all
10/60

SILICONEKID345HP

14,997 posts

231 months

Friday 31st October 2014
quotequote all
Millers 10w60 in mine ,fully synthetic .


ChimpOnGas

9,637 posts

179 months

Saturday 1st November 2014
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I've been happy with Millers CSS 20w/60 in the past, and more recently even happier with the very well priced Penrite HPR15 15w/60.

But next change I'm moving on to this for a broader temp range:



The 10w/70 grade should deliver even better cold start protection in the winter yet maintain greater protection when hot too.

The Penrite HPR15 15w/60 is a fantastic value fully synthetic at £30 for five litres, the new Penrite Premium 10 10w/70 is more money at £40 for five litres but promises even better protection.

I think I'll give it a go.

Richard 858

1,882 posts

135 months

Saturday 1st November 2014
quotequote all
Pupp said:
You really suggesting a 25w is 'normal start up viscocity'. Maybe for Australia smile
Dunno about that, it was snowing last week in Sydney apparently !


NickM450

2,636 posts

200 months

Saturday 1st November 2014
quotequote all
Millers CFS 10w-50 Competition Full Synthetic for me. Reccomended by someone on here and my local specialist was chuffed, his first words being along the lines of "Great, proper oil"

Can usually be found on offer at Opie Oils, looking at my last invoice I paid £83 for 2 lots of 5 litres.

Nick

spend

12,581 posts

251 months

Saturday 1st November 2014
quotequote all
Probably any old stuff for a cooking 4.0, but any reasonably hot engine look not just for fully synth, but full esters, the PAO's just don't seem to handle the heat IMHO so less stable pressures and get dirtier faster ~ so are breaking down under the stress IMO.

macdeb

8,510 posts

255 months

Saturday 1st November 2014
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VR1 20/50
gets changed nearly as often as it's cleaned, I couldn't be seen with dirty oil on my dipstick getmecoat

QBee

20,973 posts

144 months

Saturday 1st November 2014
quotequote all
Asked my wife what oil I should use. Her response was "Extra Virgin Olive Oil from Waitrose".
I think that cookery course as a lot to answer for.......