McLeod Clutch, Clutch Release Bearing & Carrier Issue
Discussion
Anyone had any spacer/clearing issues with McLeod clutches? I have a slight bearing noise that I believe is the release bearing. I seem to remember somebody having to use spacers for the slave.
I fitted a twin plate McLeod clutch and taking a look through the bell housing hole the bearing carrier is butted up against the gearbox and the bearing is permanently engaged with the clutch forks. if I depress the clutch slightly (rest my foot on the pedal) the noise goes away. It is present both at a standstill with the engine ticking over and in gear driving.
I had assumed (but don't know for sure) that the clutch release bearing should fully disengage from the clutch forks when the clutch is not depressed.
I don't have any clutch slip and the car is perfectly driveable, however, I guess the bearing will wear quickly.
Anyone had similar, if so what was the fix. I have tried loosening off the slave bolts but it makes no difference since the bearing carrier is right back on the box.
I am guessing I am going to have to remove the box and have a portion machined off the carrier, I just don't know how much..... I'll give Real Steel a call on Monday, but in the meantime if the box has to come out I might as well get on with it.
Cheers,
Matt
I fitted a twin plate McLeod clutch and taking a look through the bell housing hole the bearing carrier is butted up against the gearbox and the bearing is permanently engaged with the clutch forks. if I depress the clutch slightly (rest my foot on the pedal) the noise goes away. It is present both at a standstill with the engine ticking over and in gear driving.
I had assumed (but don't know for sure) that the clutch release bearing should fully disengage from the clutch forks when the clutch is not depressed.
I don't have any clutch slip and the car is perfectly driveable, however, I guess the bearing will wear quickly.
Anyone had similar, if so what was the fix. I have tried loosening off the slave bolts but it makes no difference since the bearing carrier is right back on the box.
I am guessing I am going to have to remove the box and have a portion machined off the carrier, I just don't know how much..... I'll give Real Steel a call on Monday, but in the meantime if the box has to come out I might as well get on with it.
Cheers,
Matt
With the original set up there is a spring inside the slave which holds the release bearing against the clutch fingers so having the bearing running the whole time is probably not an issue (unless it is not designed for this to be the case) but you will need room behind the bearing for it to move back as the clutch wears and the fingers rise. Still doesn't explain your noise but maybe all will be revealed when you have a look in there?
Looks like you need about .0150" in or 3.6mm for the bearing to retract as the clutch wears. do you have the ajustable bearing? Might be able to get it with ajustment. Sorry if I'm stating the obvious here but I assume you have had a look at mcleod,s videos? https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=jeyl93SllTQ
Thanks All,
Hoofa any idea how much you took off? I was thinking 8mm to allow for fingers to expand with wear and circa 5mm to hopefully get it to retract fully. Obviously don't want to carve too much off on the first go and not sure what tolerance I have to work with
Slightly miffed that I did not get a heads up on this from the supplier of clutch and flywheel.
No I have not watched the mcloed vids and don't have an adjjustable bearing. Will take a look tonight while the mrs is glued to strictly.
Thanks again,
Matt
Hoofa any idea how much you took off? I was thinking 8mm to allow for fingers to expand with wear and circa 5mm to hopefully get it to retract fully. Obviously don't want to carve too much off on the first go and not sure what tolerance I have to work with
Slightly miffed that I did not get a heads up on this from the supplier of clutch and flywheel.
No I have not watched the mcloed vids and don't have an adjjustable bearing. Will take a look tonight while the mrs is glued to strictly.
Thanks again,
Matt
Edited by mattrosersv on Sunday 16th November 15:17
So box is out.
It appears I have a dual problem to solve. Firstly the bearing carrier is too long, I am going to shave 8mm off the back to start with.
Apologies for the rubbish photo, you can just about make it out.
Second problem is that the clutch slave is at its most retracted position at exactly the same point as the bearing carrier butts up against the box. Therefore pressure remains on the clutch fingers even with the box removed. I tested this by slackening off the slave bolts and I could then push the bottom of the fork back releasing the bearing from the forks.
What NZFAN said is correct in that the slave is sprung to keep the bearing engaged with the forks.
So I also need to shorten/acquire a shorter clutch push rod, or make a spacer for the clutch slave equating to an 8mm movement of the carrier (to match my shaved off bit). Will need to work out spacer width/rod length from pivot point on the clutch.
Any other suggestions most welcome….
Cheers,
Matt
It appears I have a dual problem to solve. Firstly the bearing carrier is too long, I am going to shave 8mm off the back to start with.
Apologies for the rubbish photo, you can just about make it out.
Second problem is that the clutch slave is at its most retracted position at exactly the same point as the bearing carrier butts up against the box. Therefore pressure remains on the clutch fingers even with the box removed. I tested this by slackening off the slave bolts and I could then push the bottom of the fork back releasing the bearing from the forks.
What NZFAN said is correct in that the slave is sprung to keep the bearing engaged with the forks.
So I also need to shorten/acquire a shorter clutch push rod, or make a spacer for the clutch slave equating to an 8mm movement of the carrier (to match my shaved off bit). Will need to work out spacer width/rod length from pivot point on the clutch.
Any other suggestions most welcome….
Cheers,
Matt
Edited by mattrosersv on Tuesday 18th November 22:20
The way I measured mine was to put the assembled clutch and flywheel on a flat surface .. them measure the distance with a flat steel rule across the clutch fingers to the flat surface .. do this for old and new clutches..
I fould the new one was 10mm higher... so the bearing carrier needed to be 10mm shorter..
I fould the new one was 10mm higher... so the bearing carrier needed to be 10mm shorter..
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