Discussion
How much vacuum should the tank be under? I keep hearing loud clunks from the back when activating and deactivating the fuel pump, and I'm starting to suspect it may be putting the tank in such a state of vacuum that its causing the steel to distort, making it "ping". Do these cars run pressurised / vacuum'd tanks?
If not, would this feasibly put the pump under enough strain to knacker it? It is getting noisy from time to time, although often shuts up once it hits pressure...
I'm starting to ssupect my pump may be the cause of the juddery running. Never one to simply replace a part, is it worth upgrading to a Walbro high LPH pump?
If not, would this feasibly put the pump under enough strain to knacker it? It is getting noisy from time to time, although often shuts up once it hits pressure...
I'm starting to ssupect my pump may be the cause of the juddery running. Never one to simply replace a part, is it worth upgrading to a Walbro high LPH pump?
I'm no expert but as far as I'm aware the tank is "vented" via a hose running the full length of the chassis on the near side to the carbon canister mounted forward of the o/s/f wheel arch, behind the washer bottle. In turn the canister is periodically purged to extract whatever vapour has been captured and returns it to the inlet manifold through the hose adjacent to the brake servo vacuum hose which exits the o/s/f inner wing and connects to the plenum base / inlet manifold.
I've chosen to remove mine to tidy up the chassis etc. and have cut back the hose toward the tank to allow a small breather to be fitted and mounted close to the diff., 3,000 miles or so later and all is well. Just to add I have removed all cats but still have original fuel and ignition system (Lucas 14CUX) and consequently still have lambda probes fitted as standard.
Probably more information than you need but I do tend to waffle on a bit ! Hope this helps.
I've chosen to remove mine to tidy up the chassis etc. and have cut back the hose toward the tank to allow a small breather to be fitted and mounted close to the diff., 3,000 miles or so later and all is well. Just to add I have removed all cats but still have original fuel and ignition system (Lucas 14CUX) and consequently still have lambda probes fitted as standard.
Probably more information than you need but I do tend to waffle on a bit ! Hope this helps.
Your best bet is to disconnect the hose at the carbon canister end from the tank. Many years ago I had an issue with my canister, they can block and actually stop the car running. When it happened to me the car kept trying to stall and I just managed to get home. Back then I replaced the canister, but 10years on it is now out of the car, the hose between the canister and the engine removed and plugged, the hose from the fuel tank has a mini k&n filter on it to vent through.
Interestingly enough, anyone here running an aftermarket ECU won't be using the canister, unless TVR power have installed an MBE system. I remember having a chat about that with Jason when I fitted the Canems and he said they'd spent a considerable amount of time working out when to open and close the valve on the canister so as not the upset idle running emissions etc…..
Interestingly enough, anyone here running an aftermarket ECU won't be using the canister, unless TVR power have installed an MBE system. I remember having a chat about that with Jason when I fitted the Canems and he said they'd spent a considerable amount of time working out when to open and close the valve on the canister so as not the upset idle running emissions etc…..
overdriveeng said:
Just to touch on the other point, would there be logic and recommendations to up rating my pump? It's intermittently whining so is due the chop in my mind.
A standard pump is fine.My 5.5 runs on a standard pump feeding 30lb injectors and it isn't running at full capacity, even flat out on a RR.
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