Impreza steering rack mod
Discussion
Nope. Another couple of hours later should see it all in, then its exhaust back on and I can start it. Maybe next Saturday. Then drop the coolant and make a decision on attempting the valley gasket or letting the specialists do it.
There's also some minor brakes work needed and a few odds and sods to do inside.
ETA - update.
I said it tongue in cheek a page or so back but I literally am going to get this done just as we go into enforced isolation aren't I?
Rack is in and the steering column is connected. It's not coming out again. Fingers crossed anyway.
With it all hooked up I have 1.25 turns on the wheel each way to the lock stops, I will need an extra 3 mm lock washer on the near side to keep it to 1.25 turns due to the offset. This is with the rack centred by measuring the free end of the bar to the housing and equalising each side at 69 mm, and centring the steering wheel and then installing the column and UJs in that position. I may need more spacers each side to avoid rubbing but I won't know that until I get the wheels on.
TVR tie rods went into the rack no issue, I've decided not to bother with the lock washers as there are no lugs on the TVR tie rods to locate them anyway so it will just be thread lock and do them up 'fkn tight'. Geometry is set more or less at what it was when I started the tear down and I have to say even just with the 300 mm brake discs to go on it looks pretty sensible.
I just need to final tighten all bolts, re-fit the exhaust and charge the battery before adding fluid and checking for leaks. Then I'm onto coolant.
I am in a desperate race against a mild dose of the 'flu!
Seriously though I know many of the contributors to this thread are in the at-risk group, hope you guys are OK and keeping safe.
There's also some minor brakes work needed and a few odds and sods to do inside.
ETA - update.
I said it tongue in cheek a page or so back but I literally am going to get this done just as we go into enforced isolation aren't I?
Rack is in and the steering column is connected. It's not coming out again. Fingers crossed anyway.
With it all hooked up I have 1.25 turns on the wheel each way to the lock stops, I will need an extra 3 mm lock washer on the near side to keep it to 1.25 turns due to the offset. This is with the rack centred by measuring the free end of the bar to the housing and equalising each side at 69 mm, and centring the steering wheel and then installing the column and UJs in that position. I may need more spacers each side to avoid rubbing but I won't know that until I get the wheels on.
TVR tie rods went into the rack no issue, I've decided not to bother with the lock washers as there are no lugs on the TVR tie rods to locate them anyway so it will just be thread lock and do them up 'fkn tight'. Geometry is set more or less at what it was when I started the tear down and I have to say even just with the 300 mm brake discs to go on it looks pretty sensible.
I just need to final tighten all bolts, re-fit the exhaust and charge the battery before adding fluid and checking for leaks. Then I'm onto coolant.
I am in a desperate race against a mild dose of the 'flu!
Seriously though I know many of the contributors to this thread are in the at-risk group, hope you guys are OK and keeping safe.
Edited by 2gins on Tuesday 17th March 20:47
Close now. All is built, pretty much.
What do we think about this clearance on the UJ bottom bolt?
Looks uncomfortable close to me
I'm thinking about drilling out the hole as discussed before to M10, tap it and use a short bolt from the inside to tighten directly into the UJ - this will also notch the input shaft for extra security
Although that will entail removing the rack again and probably spitting the pinion.
What do we think about this clearance on the UJ bottom bolt?
Looks uncomfortable close to me
I'm thinking about drilling out the hole as discussed before to M10, tap it and use a short bolt from the inside to tighten directly into the UJ - this will also notch the input shaft for extra security
Although that will entail removing the rack again and probably spitting the pinion.
DONE
Started it today, added fluid bled it all through. Took pretty much a full litre. No leaks, bar a small weep from that blasted HP hose, that I nipped up. I just need the lock washers now (Ebay white nylon standoff spacers, 24 ID x 40 OD x X mm as needed), then it's wheels on and set geo.
As I couldn't get the y piece installed fully it sounded quite like a tractor and set off 4 car alarms in the underground car park. I think it wants out.
Onto thje coolant jobs now!
Thanks for everyone's tips and hints etc.
Started it today, added fluid bled it all through. Took pretty much a full litre. No leaks, bar a small weep from that blasted HP hose, that I nipped up. I just need the lock washers now (Ebay white nylon standoff spacers, 24 ID x 40 OD x X mm as needed), then it's wheels on and set geo.
As I couldn't get the y piece installed fully it sounded quite like a tractor and set off 4 car alarms in the underground car park. I think it wants out.
Onto thje coolant jobs now!
Thanks for everyone's tips and hints etc.
Hi All,
Hope you are keeping well in these strange times.
The last task for me to get finished is a mounting bracket for the PAS reservoir, I am struggling to find any info on how/where it is bolted to and what the bracket looks like. I will probably need to make something as these parts seem to be unavaiable from the normal suppliers. What I am asking for is a photo of the bracket showing where it bolts to or any info that may help me knock something up.
Many thanks Kev.
Hope you are keeping well in these strange times.
The last task for me to get finished is a mounting bracket for the PAS reservoir, I am struggling to find any info on how/where it is bolted to and what the bracket looks like. I will probably need to make something as these parts seem to be unavaiable from the normal suppliers. What I am asking for is a photo of the bracket showing where it bolts to or any info that may help me knock something up.
Many thanks Kev.
I had it in my hand a week ago but it's on the car now!
There's a big hole tapped in the rear of the manifold on the o/s, near the bonnet catch. It takes a 22mm spanner, not certain what the thread is. There's a special bracket that fits to that, it's basically a piece of steel bent to the same radius as the reservoir with a horizontal extension sticking out that bolts to the manifold. The reservoir is held to the curved section with a big jubilee clip.
It wouldn't be hard to improve on that so I'd say whatever looks good and is secure.
There's a big hole tapped in the rear of the manifold on the o/s, near the bonnet catch. It takes a 22mm spanner, not certain what the thread is. There's a special bracket that fits to that, it's basically a piece of steel bent to the same radius as the reservoir with a horizontal extension sticking out that bolts to the manifold. The reservoir is held to the curved section with a big jubilee clip.
It wouldn't be hard to improve on that so I'd say whatever looks good and is secure.
Thanks for the tips, a couple of hours in the garage this afternoon has got it sorted. What was throwing me was that on my car the bolt on the rear of the plenum where the bracket mounts was being used as one of the vacuum take offs. There was a hidden blanking plug under the coil so I have swapped these end to end. Made up an L shaped braket that bolts to the plenum, then made an ali strap rather than useing a big Jubilee clip.
I must say I am pretty pleased with myself for achieving this upgrade, although I haven’t been able to get out for a drive yet. Bloody COVID.
But it is a huge thanks to the PH community for giving me the advice and confidence to carry out this work, I can’t state how important it has been to me in my nearly 10 years of TVR ownership that I have been able to carry all work on my car myself, if you search hard enough there is an answer or some one who will help you out.
But it is a huge thanks to the PH community for giving me the advice and confidence to carry out this work, I can’t state how important it has been to me in my nearly 10 years of TVR ownership that I have been able to carry all work on my car myself, if you search hard enough there is an answer or some one who will help you out.
Hello all, I hope you're all keeping safe and well and avoiding C-19. I'm making the most of quarantine and cracking on with this. I am however a little stuck and could use some advice.
I've purchased and fitted the Mk1 Ford Ka UJ (OE Ford part) to the steering rack by cutting the pinion length down and filing it to a hex. The UJ snugly fits all the way to the bottom of the pinion.
However, with the rack fitted and the intermediate splines shaft fitted (ie everything connected) this UJ badly fouls on the diagional chassis brace. It fouls before I even get a bolt through it.
Did any of you modify the UJ to make it shorter?
I'm not sure where I can find any extra play from. I many have to cut another 5mm from the pinion and 5mm from the bottom of the UJ.
Thoughts are appreciated.
Kind regards
Mark
I've purchased and fitted the Mk1 Ford Ka UJ (OE Ford part) to the steering rack by cutting the pinion length down and filing it to a hex. The UJ snugly fits all the way to the bottom of the pinion.
However, with the rack fitted and the intermediate splines shaft fitted (ie everything connected) this UJ badly fouls on the diagional chassis brace. It fouls before I even get a bolt through it.
Did any of you modify the UJ to make it shorter?
I'm not sure where I can find any extra play from. I many have to cut another 5mm from the pinion and 5mm from the bottom of the UJ.
Thoughts are appreciated.
Kind regards
Mark
Reread the whole thread. Kevd posted this earlier this month that answers all my questions. Thanks Kev.
"For the steering shaft I have used a 330mm long shaft that I got from a company called Rally Design. I had a problem with clearing the top wishbone when on full drop so I have had to change the top UJ for one that is longer which I believe is standard fitment on a PAS fitted car, and I have had to cut about 6mm off the bottom of the Ford UJ at the rack, this just allows the shaft to clear the wishbone. It was bit of a pain fitting it all as I had to try and assemble everything then get the rack bolted in place. My rack is now 2.5 tuns L2L but that is with 10mm wide lock stops fitted to both sides. Got tracking roughly in the right place by using a string line from the back wheels to get some sort of rough alignment on the front, hopefully will be good enough to get mobile. Just about to head out to garage now to try and get finished off and fire it up, then we will really see what’s happening."
Need to find that new top UJ now
"For the steering shaft I have used a 330mm long shaft that I got from a company called Rally Design. I had a problem with clearing the top wishbone when on full drop so I have had to change the top UJ for one that is longer which I believe is standard fitment on a PAS fitted car, and I have had to cut about 6mm off the bottom of the Ford UJ at the rack, this just allows the shaft to clear the wishbone. It was bit of a pain fitting it all as I had to try and assemble everything then get the rack bolted in place. My rack is now 2.5 tuns L2L but that is with 10mm wide lock stops fitted to both sides. Got tracking roughly in the right place by using a string line from the back wheels to get some sort of rough alignment on the front, hopefully will be good enough to get mobile. Just about to head out to garage now to try and get finished off and fire it up, then we will really see what’s happening."
Need to find that new top UJ now
Need to find that new top UJ now
[/quote]
Hi Harlan, I got my upper UJ from TVR parts. Is your car originally fitted with PAS or not.
You will need the upper UJ from a PAS car as these are longer than those fitted to NON PAS cars, if I remember correctly the one you want is about 105mm long, and mine had different diameter splined holes 3/4" to the steering column and 9/16" to the rack.
[/quote]
Hi Harlan, I got my upper UJ from TVR parts. Is your car originally fitted with PAS or not.
You will need the upper UJ from a PAS car as these are longer than those fitted to NON PAS cars, if I remember correctly the one you want is about 105mm long, and mine had different diameter splined holes 3/4" to the steering column and 9/16" to the rack.
phazed said:
Hi Phazed, 
Quick one for you, if you don't mind. In this picture, did you remove the plastic covers on the back of your radiators in order to get an extra bit of room for the steering pump?
I have the same pump but not enough clearance to drop it in there as you have done.
If you did remove the covers, did you notice any detrimental heat increase in the engine bay?
Thank you!
Mark
kevd said:
Hi Harlan, I got my upper UJ from TVR parts. Is your car originally fitted with PAS or not.
You will need the upper UJ from a PAS car as these are longer than those fitted to NON PAS cars, if I remember correctly the one you want is about 105mm long, and mine had different diameter splined holes 3/4" to the steering column and 9/16" to the rack.
Thank you! I've done as you suggested and this has solved my problem. Much appreciated. You will need the upper UJ from a PAS car as these are longer than those fitted to NON PAS cars, if I remember correctly the one you want is about 105mm long, and mine had different diameter splined holes 3/4" to the steering column and 9/16" to the rack.
Harlan_Kovacs said:
Hi Phazed,
Quick one for you, if you don't mind. In this picture, did you remove the plastic covers on the back of your radiators in order to get an extra bit of room for the steering pump?
I have the same pump but not enough clearance to drop it in there as you have done.
If you did remove the covers, did you notice any detrimental heat increase in the engine bay?
Thank you!
Mark
That was two cars ago on my old 4.6. It was a tight squeeze with it literally touching the crossmember and the radiator assembly. What you see in the photograph is what was there. I believe I had a more enclosed cover with my 5.5 which was a later 99 car.Quick one for you, if you don't mind. In this picture, did you remove the plastic covers on the back of your radiators in order to get an extra bit of room for the steering pump?
I have the same pump but not enough clearance to drop it in there as you have done.
If you did remove the covers, did you notice any detrimental heat increase in the engine bay?
Thank you!
Mark
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