Impreza steering rack mod
Discussion
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Ah, thanks chaps.
I'm not entirely sure I'll have enough space even if I remove some of the fan casing. I'll take a look. I would prefer to locate it in the nose - that's a good idea. I like that the bottle will stay cool too. The only issue I have it that my car is a '98 and has a bar across the more aperture, so the only cay into the nose is by removing the rad.
Coolant is already drained, so, not a massive extra step. I'd have to remove the rad to top-up the fluid though...hmm.
I can see that you've modified the PS pump bracket (I didn't get one of those). Where does your modified bracket affix? The top of the rad, I assume?
I'm not entirely sure I'll have enough space even if I remove some of the fan casing. I'll take a look. I would prefer to locate it in the nose - that's a good idea. I like that the bottle will stay cool too. The only issue I have it that my car is a '98 and has a bar across the more aperture, so the only cay into the nose is by removing the rad.
Coolant is already drained, so, not a massive extra step. I'd have to remove the rad to top-up the fluid though...hmm.
I can see that you've modified the PS pump bracket (I didn't get one of those). Where does your modified bracket affix? The top of the rad, I assume?
Hello everyone. Hope you're all keeping well.
I'm seeking advice RE wiring in the fuel pump. I'm all going on the plan. Battery to relay to pump. Relay switched by alternator. Earth to chassis.
However, this is my first time and I'm curious about purchasing the required electrical cables.
What guage should I buy?
Many thanks.
Mark
I'm seeking advice RE wiring in the fuel pump. I'm all going on the plan. Battery to relay to pump. Relay switched by alternator. Earth to chassis.
However, this is my first time and I'm curious about purchasing the required electrical cables.
What guage should I buy?
Many thanks.
Mark
Harlan_Kovacs said:
Ah, thanks chaps.
I'm not entirely sure I'll have enough space even if I remove some of the fan casing. I'll take a look. I would prefer to locate it in the nose - that's a good idea. I like that the bottle will stay cool too. The only issue I have it that my car is a '98 and has a bar across the more aperture, so the only cay into the nose is by removing the rad.
Coolant is already drained, so, not a massive extra step. I'd have to remove the rad to top-up the fluid though...hmm.
I can see that you've modified the PS pump bracket (I didn't get one of those). Where does your modified bracket affix? The top of the rad, I assume?
I'm not entirely sure I'll have enough space even if I remove some of the fan casing. I'll take a look. I would prefer to locate it in the nose - that's a good idea. I like that the bottle will stay cool too. The only issue I have it that my car is a '98 and has a bar across the more aperture, so the only cay into the nose is by removing the rad.
Coolant is already drained, so, not a massive extra step. I'd have to remove the rad to top-up the fluid though...hmm.
I can see that you've modified the PS pump bracket (I didn't get one of those). Where does your modified bracket affix? The top of the rad, I assume?
Ah, that's wonderful, thank you.
Final (hahah, not likely) question.
Running the 12v power from the battery to the pump in the nose. I can't see any simple way where I can piggyback another cable through the fibreglass and into the engine compartment. Did you all just cut another small hole for the 16mm battery cable?
Thank you!
Mark
Final (hahah, not likely) question.
Running the 12v power from the battery to the pump in the nose. I can't see any simple way where I can piggyback another cable through the fibreglass and into the engine compartment. Did you all just cut another small hole for the 16mm battery cable?
Thank you!
Mark
RIGHT THEN
I am DONE!
I had a secondary job to replace the radiator mounts, which I thought would be a case of just wiggling them out from behind the rad without disturbing anything else, but they were (of course) welded to the fibreglass. Quite why a very well respected specialist who had the rad re-cored just before I bought the car didn't renew them for the sake of £10 is beyond me but never mind. The rad ended up coming out, so I repainted the shell and the inside of the nose in satin black, replaced all the rusted to f
k bolts on the fan cowls etc, and while I was at it solved the swan-neck pipe clash with the rack hard pipes by fitting the ACT early-serp pipe configuration. And also, because the rad was out, and because of lock down, I had pleeeeeeeeenty of time on my hands, I polished the st out of the swirl pot, expansion tank, header pipes, and the wheel nuts. And fitted the ACT coolant hose kit. fk it, I'm not putting 99RON in it for 3 months so why not.
Got it all bled and started today and had a little shakedown run up and down the garage / car park. I just need to thread lock the steering arms and tidy up the hoses, few cable ties etc, and he's back on the road.
An overview of the project from my point of view, for what it's worth to those still reading:
Costs
Rack (34110 FA082, 2.5 turns L2L) - ebay - £30
Rack collection costs - £20
Rack mounts and brackets - Import car parts - £50
New boots - Import car parts - £20 (could have saved a few £ on shipping if bought together - D'Oh!)
Rack support brackets - friendly local machine shop - £3 in biscuits
22.5mm x M8 ID spacers - ebay £10-15 iirc
New HP hose from pump, LP hose to reservoir, various fittings - Think Automotive, Sunbury - £130
The CORRECT bump tube adapter for the M14 HP in to the rack - JLS motorsports, part no on P32? - £15
New flex pipes, because I knackered the hard pipes with a cheap and horrible pipe bender (tt) - Think Automotive - £25
PAS fluid (Castrol Transmax DIII) 1 L - £10
Steering link arm - not required - £0
Fiesta UJ ESRK05 - ebay - £15
Bolts etc - M8 x 50mm flanged hex bolts, washers, spring washers etc - Kayfast, ebay - £10
Lock stop washers - ebay - M24 nylon Form A washers or stand-off spacers - £5?
Paint etc - on the shelf - £0
Total costs £350
TVR rack is for sale - will negate some of these costs
+ £30 in redundant fittings that I could refund, if I could be bothered but I probably can't. Parts on the shelf etc.
Cost of Kiley Clinton refurb on original rack - £450 (quoted 2019)
Feel - too soon to say, but it feels very much standard at 20 mph ish in the garage. I'll have it on the road tomorrow as its 1st of the month. Turning radius seems pretty much stock.
I have 2.5 turns L2L, after fitting a single 3mm x M24 nylon washer to the n/s to level up the steering. A good 1" clearance to the wishbones, and 1/2" to the arches, on 17" wheels - no extra lock stoppers required. I've got loads of spares if anyone needs any!
It wasn't as easy for me as it has been for some, and there's actually an article on the subject in the last issue of Sprint (532?) that describes fabricating some fancy pants sloping brackets to give the extra degree of rotation needed to get clearance on the HP union and the UJ. It was a very elegant but long winded and beardy install, which I guess is about right for a Griff owner. I also didn't need to fit a new link arm, a source of much consternation for may it seems. My original fitted between the top UJ and new fiesta unit, I just had to expand the flats for the bolts by 3-4 mm at each end by draw filing them down to increase the engagement with each UJ. Win!
I did this basically in a car park in the dark with a small work light so it's not that hard a mod. It took forever, and caused much swearing, but that's more about my garage situation and fitting it all around family, not the mod itself.
I haven't included the costs of tools or the new early Serp coolant pipe, because that's how man-maths works, right?
I am DONE!
I had a secondary job to replace the radiator mounts, which I thought would be a case of just wiggling them out from behind the rad without disturbing anything else, but they were (of course) welded to the fibreglass. Quite why a very well respected specialist who had the rad re-cored just before I bought the car didn't renew them for the sake of £10 is beyond me but never mind. The rad ended up coming out, so I repainted the shell and the inside of the nose in satin black, replaced all the rusted to f
k bolts on the fan cowls etc, and while I was at it solved the swan-neck pipe clash with the rack hard pipes by fitting the ACT early-serp pipe configuration. And also, because the rad was out, and because of lock down, I had pleeeeeeeeenty of time on my hands, I polished the st out of the swirl pot, expansion tank, header pipes, and the wheel nuts. And fitted the ACT coolant hose kit. fk it, I'm not putting 99RON in it for 3 months so why not.Got it all bled and started today and had a little shakedown run up and down the garage / car park. I just need to thread lock the steering arms and tidy up the hoses, few cable ties etc, and he's back on the road.
An overview of the project from my point of view, for what it's worth to those still reading:
Costs
Rack (34110 FA082, 2.5 turns L2L) - ebay - £30
Rack collection costs - £20
Rack mounts and brackets - Import car parts - £50
New boots - Import car parts - £20 (could have saved a few £ on shipping if bought together - D'Oh!)
Rack support brackets - friendly local machine shop - £3 in biscuits
22.5mm x M8 ID spacers - ebay £10-15 iirc
New HP hose from pump, LP hose to reservoir, various fittings - Think Automotive, Sunbury - £130
The CORRECT bump tube adapter for the M14 HP in to the rack - JLS motorsports, part no on P32? - £15
New flex pipes, because I knackered the hard pipes with a cheap and horrible pipe bender (t
t) - Think Automotive - £25PAS fluid (Castrol Transmax DIII) 1 L - £10
Steering link arm - not required - £0
Fiesta UJ ESRK05 - ebay - £15
Bolts etc - M8 x 50mm flanged hex bolts, washers, spring washers etc - Kayfast, ebay - £10
Lock stop washers - ebay - M24 nylon Form A washers or stand-off spacers - £5?
Paint etc - on the shelf - £0
Total costs £350
TVR rack is for sale - will negate some of these costs
+ £30 in redundant fittings that I could refund, if I could be bothered but I probably can't. Parts on the shelf etc.
Cost of Kiley Clinton refurb on original rack - £450 (quoted 2019)
Feel - too soon to say, but it feels very much standard at 20 mph ish in the garage. I'll have it on the road tomorrow as its 1st of the month. Turning radius seems pretty much stock.
I have 2.5 turns L2L, after fitting a single 3mm x M24 nylon washer to the n/s to level up the steering. A good 1" clearance to the wishbones, and 1/2" to the arches, on 17" wheels - no extra lock stoppers required. I've got loads of spares if anyone needs any!
It wasn't as easy for me as it has been for some, and there's actually an article on the subject in the last issue of Sprint (532?) that describes fabricating some fancy pants sloping brackets to give the extra degree of rotation needed to get clearance on the HP union and the UJ. It was a very elegant but long winded and beardy install, which I guess is about right for a Griff owner. I also didn't need to fit a new link arm, a source of much consternation for may it seems. My original fitted between the top UJ and new fiesta unit, I just had to expand the flats for the bolts by 3-4 mm at each end by draw filing them down to increase the engagement with each UJ. Win!
I did this basically in a car park in the dark with a small work light so it's not that hard a mod. It took forever, and caused much swearing, but that's more about my garage situation and fitting it all around family, not the mod itself.
I haven't included the costs of tools or the new early Serp coolant pipe, because that's how man-maths works, right?
Well done!
Look forward to hearing your thoughts after the test drive.
When I converted my 5.5, it was from a TVR PS rack to scooby rack. TBH, there wasn't much difference in feel. Both were great for slow/parking etc with the feel at speed being on the light side, you get used to that.
When I remember back to my old 4.6, none PS doing track days, I would come of the track bathed in sweat. Fitted PS and it was a dream. Enough feel to progress swiftly without the wrenching of the wheel left/right/left all the time. On the road, far, far better.
Look forward to hearing your thoughts after the test drive.
When I converted my 5.5, it was from a TVR PS rack to scooby rack. TBH, there wasn't much difference in feel. Both were great for slow/parking etc with the feel at speed being on the light side, you get used to that.
When I remember back to my old 4.6, none PS doing track days, I would come of the track bathed in sweat. Fitted PS and it was a dream. Enough feel to progress swiftly without the wrenching of the wheel left/right/left all the time. On the road, far, far better.
[quote=2gins]RIGHT THEN
I am DONE!
Well done, Glad to hear its all back together. I still havent driven mine on the roads since completing the work so can't give any feed back on how it feels, but I have done vaious manouverings around the drive garage and it is soooooooo much easier than before with no PAS. Hopefully will get taxed this week and get to try her out properly.
I am DONE!
Well done, Glad to hear its all back together. I still havent driven mine on the roads since completing the work so can't give any feed back on how it feels, but I have done vaious manouverings around the drive garage and it is soooooooo much easier than before with no PAS. Hopefully will get taxed this week and get to try her out properly.
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