Has anyone made there own outriggers ?
Discussion
Does anyone know what size, type and grade of pipe is used for the outriggers ?
Also does anyone have dimensions ?
I'll soon be doing mine and I have the use of 2 and 4 poster ramps and an expert welder and if I could get my hands on the materials first it would move the job along much quicker and get me back on the road and behind the wheel.
Or am I just as well buying these ?
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=...
Thank you fellow Chimmers.
Also does anyone have dimensions ?
I'll soon be doing mine and I have the use of 2 and 4 poster ramps and an expert welder and if I could get my hands on the materials first it would move the job along much quicker and get me back on the road and behind the wheel.
Or am I just as well buying these ?
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=...
Thank you fellow Chimmers.
Central TVR charge £499 + VAT. so, the same price really.
Photo is strangely similar:
http://www.centraltvr.com/product/chassis-outrigge...
Wonder who actually makes them???
Photo is strangely similar:
http://www.centraltvr.com/product/chassis-outrigge...
Wonder who actually makes them???
OD 38 mm
wall thickness 2mm
plates 3mm
Or something like this
http://www.metals4u.co.uk/mild-steel/tube/tube/1.1...
And this
http://www.metals4u.co.uk/mild-steel/sheet/sheets/...
Thank you Barreti
Do you know what length is required to complete the job ?
Would there be any advantage in using stainless steel instead of mild ?
wall thickness 2mm
plates 3mm
Or something like this
http://www.metals4u.co.uk/mild-steel/tube/tube/1.1...
And this
http://www.metals4u.co.uk/mild-steel/sheet/sheets/...
Thank you Barreti
Do you know what length is required to complete the job ?
Would there be any advantage in using stainless steel instead of mild ?
Edited by Cokes on Friday 9th January 20:16
Cokes said:
OD 38 mm
wall thickness 2mm
plates 3mm
Or something like this
http://www.metals4u.co.uk/mild-steel/tube/tube/1.1...
And this
http://www.metals4u.co.uk/mild-steel/sheet/sheets/...
Thank you Barreti
Do you know what length is required to complete the job ?
Would there be any advantage in using stainless steel instead of mild ?
No you will still get dissimilar metal corrosion around welds and more prone to cracking. Just think of the outriggers as a 15 year consumable as thats probably their service life when built in blackpool wall thickness 2mm
plates 3mm
Or something like this
http://www.metals4u.co.uk/mild-steel/tube/tube/1.1...
And this
http://www.metals4u.co.uk/mild-steel/sheet/sheets/...
Thank you Barreti
Do you know what length is required to complete the job ?
Would there be any advantage in using stainless steel instead of mild ?
Edited by Cokes on Friday 9th January 20:16
Cokes said:
Discopotatoes said:
I'm in the process of doing my own
The tube came to about £50
Looking good and saving a fortune. So it's a win all round The tube came to about £50
Edited by Discopotatoes on Friday 9th January 21:08
How much pipe did you order ?
Disco that looks really professional, I'm on doing mine at the minute and its a lot cheaper to do it yourself but I am shocked at how long it took. But if you have plenty of time but them kits I think would be much much easier, but you say you have a good welder so I would think he'll make short work of it. When I bought my steel it cost £80 but I bought enough to do 2 cars but because of that age old saying of measure once cut twice that I like to follow I've used most of it. Did I mention it's time consuming cutting your own
I used this software to create templates to cut all the angles and birds mouths.
http://www.ozhpv.org.au/shed/tubemiter.htm
And this tool to find the angles
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-200mm-Digital-An...
The software prints a paper template that you cut out and tape onto the tube then I used an evolution chopsaw to cut the steel, a mini grinder would work just as well
http://www.ozhpv.org.au/shed/tubemiter.htm
And this tool to find the angles
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-200mm-Digital-An...
The software prints a paper template that you cut out and tape onto the tube then I used an evolution chopsaw to cut the steel, a mini grinder would work just as well
Cokes said:
Does anyone know what size, type and grade of pipe is used for the outriggers ?
Also does anyone have dimensions ?
I'll soon be doing mine and I have the use of 2 and 4 poster ramps and an expert welder and if I could get my hands on the materials first it would move the job along much quicker and get me back on the road and behind the wheel.
Or am I just as well buying these ?
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=...
Thank you fellow Chimmers.
Buy the tube yourself. You can buy seamless tube which is much better quality than the original TVR used. It was 4 years ago now, but i paid about £50 for 8 mtrs. Also does anyone have dimensions ?
I'll soon be doing mine and I have the use of 2 and 4 poster ramps and an expert welder and if I could get my hands on the materials first it would move the job along much quicker and get me back on the road and behind the wheel.
Or am I just as well buying these ?
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=...
Thank you fellow Chimmers.
I did the body-lift and stripped all the chassis myself. I was working in Sheffield at the time, so i went to a local engineering/welding company and asked for a quote to cut, fab and weld new outriggers on my chassis.
Cost was £360.00 plus £50 i paid for the tube so £410.00 for new outriggers.
It then cost approx £100 to have it all bead blasted and 2 pack epoxy primer straight after.
They made a first class job of it as well
If you are interested in stainless then you should look at 3CR12 (also called type 1.4003). This is a corrosion resistant steel which should give you better mechanical and impact properties than stainless or mild steel and should weld easily. The only issue is whether you can buy it retail in the UK in the correct sizes.
I also had 1 metre of tube with an OD the same as the ID of the main tube you plan to use.
Then use it to hammer inside the lower wheel arch tubes where you plan to weld them together, unless you are cutting right back to the chassis.
If you look at the photo TJC46 posted, you can see where you will have joins. The extra tube strengthens these joins.
Throw a load of rust preventer in the cut tube, and paint the new one, then hammer the new one a good 6inches in, leaving 6inches sticking out so you can hammer the new tube on. Don't butt them up tight. Leave a small gap so you weld the outer tube to the new inner tube.
See if I can remember and describe what I did for the rest.
The rotten bits are mainly the long side outrigger tubes, and the very corners of the short lower tubes in each wheel arch. The centre tube from the outrigger to the chassis is unlikely to be corroded.
The cuts are
Front wheel arch. Cut the lower tube only in the middle.
Then cut the upper diagonal tube off the now scrap lower tube, leaving a bit of the lower tube below the weld. Then clean back the diagonal to the weld. This should all be good steel and you keep the original diagonal tube, which looks better and keeps the strength.
The same applies at the back.
As the centre outrigger to the chassis tube is unlikely to be corroded, cut off the long side tubes either side of it, then fish mouth the centre tube open so the new long tube drops into the fish mouth. Easy to say but this will take you some time and is messy. Prepare for some faffing!
Before you cut any of the tubes measure them precisely though. This is important so you put it back right first time. And especially important to make sure you fit the seatbelt bracket in the long side tube in the right place.
Don't pre drill the corner fillets for the body bolts.
Weld them in with elongated corner holes so you can clean behind them easily and Drill the holes when the body is back down. The front wheel arch corner fillets will need a 90deg or very small drill to do this from inside the car as the space is tight.
God knows if that all makes sense to you but I hope it's some use.
Then use it to hammer inside the lower wheel arch tubes where you plan to weld them together, unless you are cutting right back to the chassis.
If you look at the photo TJC46 posted, you can see where you will have joins. The extra tube strengthens these joins.
Throw a load of rust preventer in the cut tube, and paint the new one, then hammer the new one a good 6inches in, leaving 6inches sticking out so you can hammer the new tube on. Don't butt them up tight. Leave a small gap so you weld the outer tube to the new inner tube.
See if I can remember and describe what I did for the rest.
The rotten bits are mainly the long side outrigger tubes, and the very corners of the short lower tubes in each wheel arch. The centre tube from the outrigger to the chassis is unlikely to be corroded.
The cuts are
Front wheel arch. Cut the lower tube only in the middle.
Then cut the upper diagonal tube off the now scrap lower tube, leaving a bit of the lower tube below the weld. Then clean back the diagonal to the weld. This should all be good steel and you keep the original diagonal tube, which looks better and keeps the strength.
The same applies at the back.
As the centre outrigger to the chassis tube is unlikely to be corroded, cut off the long side tubes either side of it, then fish mouth the centre tube open so the new long tube drops into the fish mouth. Easy to say but this will take you some time and is messy. Prepare for some faffing!
Before you cut any of the tubes measure them precisely though. This is important so you put it back right first time. And especially important to make sure you fit the seatbelt bracket in the long side tube in the right place.
Don't pre drill the corner fillets for the body bolts.
Weld them in with elongated corner holes so you can clean behind them easily and Drill the holes when the body is back down. The front wheel arch corner fillets will need a 90deg or very small drill to do this from inside the car as the space is tight.
God knows if that all makes sense to you but I hope it's some use.
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