Has anyone made there own outriggers ?
Discussion
Current thought is full body off but this is dependant on continued space avalible in my mates workshop, which I'm sure isn't a problem and what we find once it's on the ramp. I plan on keeping this car for a while yet so it's restore, replace or upgrade as we go and once done it's just sit back and enjoy with peace of mind.
Whilst agee with the body-off is the best way, the link below is still a good idea if you didn't want to go through all that trouble. It certainly looks more thorough than welding with a 3" body lift.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Sportmotive in Stafford do it without a body lift. They make them in house and cut and reweld at the chassis beams. Lots of photos here:
http://www.sportmotive.com/images/chassis/outrigge...
Seems they are able to do a full weld at all the joints.
http://www.sportmotive.com/images/chassis/outrigge...
Seems they are able to do a full weld at all the joints.
I Haven't done the TVR body lift (yet) but did some major work on my Rover p5B last winter.
Forget the food bags. Go to Costco or the like and buy a box or two of plastic takeaway food containers and lids.
These can be labelled with a permanent marker, stacked when lids are on into relevant piles and are more easily identifies than piles of bags.
They're also useful to use as containers in which to clean up parts and can be reused if not too dirty.
Forget the food bags. Go to Costco or the like and buy a box or two of plastic takeaway food containers and lids.
These can be labelled with a permanent marker, stacked when lids are on into relevant piles and are more easily identifies than piles of bags.
They're also useful to use as containers in which to clean up parts and can be reused if not too dirty.
Chuffmeister said:
They undoubtedly do a good job and have a good reputation. However, if you were going down that road, without a body lift, it would be much cheaper to cut out the fibre glass and pay for a mobile welder or take it to a local fabricator. £1600+vat is still a fair chunk of cash.
Total agreement if your only changing the or's and the car is not a keeper for 5 years and more. Do a cut and weld job and this well reflect on the resale price , as you won't get your money back if you go the whole hog including respray and engine rebuild and interior refresh. Mark
if you are not doing a full body off then I'd do the 3" lift and cut holes in the body floor to gain access to complete the welds. This also allow access to ensure the new steel is fully coated and an easy job to reinstate the fibreglass. The making and fitting of the steel is relatively easy.
Another body-off thread, you might find interesting.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Cokes said:
My car is a 1993 and from reading through the comprihensive service history I have on the car I can't see any mention of any chassis work being done other than protection through the years so it will be body off to be sure everything that needs done will be done.
Body off is the best way to go. There are some well cared for cars on this forum and we know 90% of them on here and thats a given. its the cars for sale on Ph'eds and the bay which we dont know and havnt had the body off, whats lurking under there as most of our chimaera's are getting close to being 20 years old now. B
TJC46 said:
Another body-off thread, you might find interesting.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
I like the use of the scaffold in this thread to support the body.http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
TJC46 said:
Another body-off thread, you might find interesting.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Another good read giving me knowledge and confidence in what I'm about to do.http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
And you're 100% right Portzi, an old car with known issues with the chassis deserves to be done properly. I'm sure there are chimaeras out there with a lick of paint hiding many sins until they get sold onto someone with the care and passion many of us have.
Twistygit said:
Is this the one you wanted cad
Yes 
Thank you!Can someone give me a clue as to which kind of welder I'm likely to need to do the chassis please?
Something like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MULTIPROCESS-INVERTER-WE...
Or this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-130Amp-Mig-Welder...
Oh and Discopotatoes, YHM.
Cheers
Cokes said:
This is what was recommended to me
http://www.metals4u.co.uk/mild-steel/tube/tube/1.1...
That's thinner than the tube TVR used http://www.metals4u.co.uk/mild-steel/tube/tube/1.1...
caduceus said:
Cokes said:
This is what was recommended to me
http://www.metals4u.co.uk/mild-steel/tube/tube/1.1...
That's thinner than the tube TVR used http://www.metals4u.co.uk/mild-steel/tube/tube/1.1...
Cokes said:
I had no idea either way but John (Engineer1949) had recommended that size and grade.
I thought I read on a thread that he upped it to 4mm when he did his.... Maybe I read it wrong 
Edited to add, yes, I did read it wrong. John used 4mm 'plate' for the brackets. Ignore me
Edited by caduceus on Thursday 26th February 22:52
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