Almost failed to proceed - Immobiliser?
Discussion
SILICONEKID345HP said:
There are box`s everywhere .
Fun isn't it 
I believe the particular box you're pointing at is the TVR speed signal box used to tell the 14CUX ECU the car is moving, double check it before removing but assuming I'm right you can remove it as you're on an Emerald ECU which obviously doesn't need it.
Once carefully removed stick it on PH classifieds and ask £100 for it, a 14CUX user with incurable stalling issues at junctions will bite your hand off for that little black box.
When did you last find £100 under your dash
ChimpOnGas said:
Once carefully removed stick it on PH classifieds and ask £100 for it, a 14CUX user with incurable stalling issues at junctions will bite your hand off for that little black box.
...assuming of course his little black box isn't suffering from the same issues (which as I understand it is highly likely)Danblez said:
I presume the meta immobiliser is the one you have to deactivate using the fob near the key?
The alarm unit is paired to the immobiliser unit, both units are clearly marked "Meta" assuming that is you have the Meta alarm which was the most common system fitted by TVR.I dont think I'm revealing anything that's not already out there in the public domain by confirming the alarm unit is under the dash top on the passenger side, and the immobiliser hides behind the head unit/radio panel in the lower dash section.
It's all here, just a simple Google away...
http://www.abacuscaralarms.co.uk/tvr-alarms.html
The bypass can take place at the alarm unit, at the immobiliser, or you could just simply run a new feed from the sprung start position on the ignition key direct to the starter solenoid or relay if you're fitting one.
Be prepared to find that someone has been in there before you, alarm swaps and bodged wiring by so called TVR specialists that were trying to fix the frequent alarm/immobiliser starting problems (but often didn't really understand how the system is wired) are very common.
Use a test meter to identify the circuits and operate the KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid) approach to your bypass.
Better still, bite the bullet and pay either Carl Baker or David at HF Solutions to replace the system with something more modern from Meta with a boot release and other useful features.
http://www.tvruk.tv/
http://www.hf-solutions.co.uk/
Abacus car alarms also offer a cost effective DIY solution that sits nicely between a bypass and the more expensive professional installed options from the above two respected TVR alarm experts.
http://www.abacuscaralarms.co.uk/tvr-alarms.html
How ever you choose to do it resolving the unreliable Meta alarm that TVR wired incorrectly is probably the best single thing you can do to improve the reliability of your Chimaera or Griffith.
There's a very good reason the above three specialists exist and offer solutions specifically to owners of these cars.
Just one thing though Dave the Land Rover v8 had a starter relay fitted OE and long term I do not recommend relying on the Vauxhall ign switch energizing the starter solenoid direct 
over the years I have replaced more ign switches on Astra's and Cavaliers (back in the day) than I care to remember because the contacts have melted held the starter solenoid on and fried the starter motor and these were smaller 4 cyl sized starter solenoids don't forget 
I certainly would NOT recommend long term using no relay in the crank/start wiring be it Dave Beer a made up kit or otherwise 
if caught early enough even with the Meta you can cure the hot start before the immobilizer contacts tarnish using said method it did for my brother over 3 years ago 
over the years I have replaced more ign switches on Astra's and Cavaliers (back in the day) than I care to remember because the contacts have melted held the starter solenoid on and fried the starter motor and these were smaller 4 cyl sized starter solenoids don't forget I certainly would NOT recommend long term using no relay in the crank/start wiring be it Dave Beer a made up kit or otherwise if caught early enough even with the Meta you can cure the hot start before the immobilizer contacts tarnish using said method it did for my brother over 3 years ago ChimpOnGas said:
Useful stuff.........
How ever you choose to do it resolving the unreliable Meta alarm that TVR wired incorrectly is probably the best single thing you can do to improve the reliability of your Chimaera or Griffith.
There's a very good reason the above three specialists exist and offer solutions specifically to owners of these cars.
I have to back this up - I had the hot start issue from the day i picked up my car from the dealer, right up till the alarm started playing up too and I came outside one morning to find the passenger side indicator permanently on (not flashing) and the battery doing a good pancake impression. How ever you choose to do it resolving the unreliable Meta alarm that TVR wired incorrectly is probably the best single thing you can do to improve the reliability of your Chimaera or Griffith.
There's a very good reason the above three specialists exist and offer solutions specifically to owners of these cars.
Bit the bullet, called Carl Baker, had a new complete system fitted in a day (not cheap, but at least i took some work with me and got a full day's work done in Carl's kitchen while he got a full day's work done in the garage). It included the remote boot release and a full 60 seconds to put the key in the ignition, and I have never had a non-start of any sort since. Or an alarm problem. He removed the hot start mod, as with a new relay fitted it was redundant, as Chimpon has already said/implied.
Sardonicus said:
Just one thing though Dave the Land Rover v8 had a starter relay fitted OE and long term I do not recommend relying on the Vauxhall ign switch energizing the starter solenoid direct over the years I have replaced more ign switches on Astra's and Cavaliers (back in the day) than I care to remember because the contacts have melted held the starter solenoid on and fried the starter motor and these were smaller 4 cyl sized starter solenoids don't forget I certainly would NOT recommend long term using no relay in the crank/start wiring be it Dave Beer a made up kit or otherwise if caught early enough even with the Meta you can cure the hot start before the immobilizer contacts tarnish using said method it did for my brother over 3 years ago
over the years I have replaced more ign switches on Astra's and Cavaliers (back in the day) than I care to remember because the contacts have melted held the starter solenoid on and fried the starter motor and these were smaller 4 cyl sized starter solenoids don't forget I certainly would NOT recommend long term using no relay in the crank/start wiring be it Dave Beer a made up kit or otherwise if caught early enough even with the Meta you can cure the hot start before the immobilizer contacts tarnish using said method it did for my brother over 3 years ago ChimpOnGas said:
Interestingly the Hot-Start kit (a relay) on it's own probably would have saved the immoliser had TVR had the foresight to fit one to the car from new, but they didn't!
So if you are retrospectively fitting a relay (Hot-Start kit) after you've suffered the classic Chimaera no-start event, make sure you:
A: Solve the real rout cause of the problem first (replace or bypass the immobiliser)
B: Fit the relay as close to the starter solenoid as possible, not hanging precariously way over on the opposite side of the car in the passenger footwell as demonstrated with the Hot-Start kit
Keeping the high amp live feed from the relay to the starter solenoid as short as possible is best practice, this is because (as we all learned in school) resistance increases the longer the wire is, it's the same reason you need to choose cable that's of a sufficiently thick gauge.
I also recommend fitting an in-line blade fuse for additional safety.
And....So if you are retrospectively fitting a relay (Hot-Start kit) after you've suffered the classic Chimaera no-start event, make sure you:
A: Solve the real rout cause of the problem first (replace or bypass the immobiliser)
B: Fit the relay as close to the starter solenoid as possible, not hanging precariously way over on the opposite side of the car in the passenger footwell as demonstrated with the Hot-Start kit
Keeping the high amp live feed from the relay to the starter solenoid as short as possible is best practice, this is because (as we all learned in school) resistance increases the longer the wire is, it's the same reason you need to choose cable that's of a sufficiently thick gauge.
I also recommend fitting an in-line blade fuse for additional safety.
ChimpOnGas said:
Following that fit a relay to the starter solenoid circuit by all means, after all it is indeed best practice to do so.
I've always advocated the fitment of a relay because as we all know it's best practice to do so, and as you quite rightly point out Simon a relay in the starter circuit is there to take the load off the contacts in the ignition switch.It should not be fitted retrospectively to take the load off the switching relay inside the immobiliser, or to compensate for the failings of the starter solenoid circuit where TVR (partly) chose cable of an inadequate gauge, these failings should be addressed in a different ways first.
Only after they have been correctly resolved should you proceed to fitting a relay, but only to ensure the long term life of the ignition switch and guarantee a sufficient supply of amps to the starter solenoid.
What I object to is when a relay is being sold as a fix to the so-called Hot Start fault which in truth originates inside the immobiliser, for fear of repeating myself... "once the damage has been done to the immobiliser a relay can't & won't undo it".
Quite simply, relay or no relay... if the wounded immobiliser is still left in the circuit so does the problem.
ChimpOnGas said:
I've always advocated the fitment of a relay because as we all know it's best practice to do so, and as you quite rightly point out Simon a relay in the starter circuit is there to take the load off the contacts in the ignition switch.
It should not be fitted retrospectively to take the load off the switching relay inside the immobiliser, or to compensate for the failings of the starter solenoid circuit where TVR (partly) chose cable of an inadequate gauge, these failings should be addressed in a different ways first.
Only after they have been correctly resolved should you proceed to fitting a relay, but only to ensure the long term life of the ignition switch and guarantee a sufficient supply of amps to the starter solenoid.
What I object to is when a relay is being sold as a fix to the so-called Hot Start fault which in truth originates inside the immobiliser, for fear of repeating myself... "once the damage has been done to the immobiliser a relay can't & won't undo it".
Quite simply, relay or no relay... if the wounded immobiliser is still left in the circuit so does the problem.
Yes but a slightly tarnished set of contacts can recover once the load is removed (in my brothers case) it was a try and worked purely because he wont let any Tom Dick or Harry touch the car It should not be fitted retrospectively to take the load off the switching relay inside the immobiliser, or to compensate for the failings of the starter solenoid circuit where TVR (partly) chose cable of an inadequate gauge, these failings should be addressed in a different ways first.
Only after they have been correctly resolved should you proceed to fitting a relay, but only to ensure the long term life of the ignition switch and guarantee a sufficient supply of amps to the starter solenoid.
What I object to is when a relay is being sold as a fix to the so-called Hot Start fault which in truth originates inside the immobiliser, for fear of repeating myself... "once the damage has been done to the immobiliser a relay can't & won't undo it".
Quite simply, relay or no relay... if the wounded immobiliser is still left in the circuit so does the problem.
except me which is strange cos I can be a bit of a Dick 
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