Body off chassis repair/replace

Body off chassis repair/replace

Author
Discussion

scotty_d

6,795 posts

195 months

Wednesday 18th February 2015
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No problem, most of the hard work is out the way, will be satisfying putting all the nice new / cleaned up parts back on the fresh chassis.

Twistygit

800 posts

154 months

Thursday 19th February 2015
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I noticed you left the front anti roll bar on, did the body lift off okay with it on? The guide I used said to remove it but it's a bit awkward with the body on and would be much easier to fit the bar before the body

walt762

Original Poster:

240 posts

233 months

Thursday 19th February 2015
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The anti roll bar and mounts are actually slightly below flush of the ends of the chassis so the body passed it without a problem, I did jack the body up passed the arb mounts and checked for missed connected wires so I was only about a foot away from it as I jacked it from the front.
It was lucky I jacked it up first as I had missed the earth to the near side back of engine that connects to a stud.

Twistygit

800 posts

154 months

Thursday 19th February 2015
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I did read somewhere that it clear but not till I had removed mine, I shall definitely refit it before the body, thanks Graeme

walt762

Original Poster:

240 posts

233 months

Friday 8th May 2015
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Finally got the chassis back, time to start the re-build.



J400GED

1,202 posts

238 months

Saturday 9th May 2015
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Looking good mate. thumbup

walt762

Original Poster:

240 posts

233 months

Saturday 9th May 2015
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Thanks, long way to go though, I don't even have all the parts yet.

scotty_d

6,795 posts

195 months

Monday 18th May 2015
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Looking great, what route did you go with it in the end?

walt762

Original Poster:

240 posts

233 months

Monday 18th May 2015
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Hi Scott, went for the refurb by Brayon Classic Eng then etch primed and 2 pack then a clear coat.
A bit disappointed with the paint if I'm honest but I am ussured there is now 7 coats of paint on it so time will tell.

While I am on,
1. what is the best way to tighten the rear Hub nut while it is off the car as the bearings have been changed but not re-assembled?
2. What is the best way to tighten the front ball joint nuts (to tighten the taper) while the hubs are off the car?

Anyone?

Chuffmeister

3,597 posts

138 months

Monday 18th May 2015
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Why are you disappointed with the paint?

walt762

Original Poster:

240 posts

233 months

Monday 18th May 2015
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It's a bit rough in places as if it had grit painted onto it and the top of the chassis looks better than the underside.
As long as it keeps the rust at bay I will be delighted but only time will tell.

J400GED

1,202 posts

238 months

Tuesday 19th May 2015
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walt762 said:
Hi Scott, went for the refurb by Brayon Classic Eng then etch primed and 2 pack then a clear coat.
A bit disappointed with the paint if I'm honest but I am ussured there is now 7 coats of paint on it so time will tell.

While I am on,
1. what is the best way to tighten the rear Hub nut while it is off the car as the bearings have been changed but not re-assembled?
2. What is the best way to tighten the front ball joint nuts (to tighten the taper) while the hubs are off the car?

Anyone?
Why not do the hub nuts and balljoints on the chassis?
It will definitely make rebuilding the front suspension a lot easier, also, you don't have to torque the hub nut until last thing anyway so why not wait until you've got some weight over the back end of the chassis or at least the handbrake reconnected?

walt762

Original Poster:

240 posts

233 months

Tuesday 19th May 2015
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J400GED said:
Why not do the hub nuts and balljoints on the chassis?
It will definitely make rebuilding the front suspension a lot easier, also, you don't have to torque the hub nut until last thing anyway so why not wait until you've got some weight over the back end of the chassis or at least the handbrake reconnected?
I haven't tried either way yet but saw a video from "big500" on you tube which said they were easier to assemble on the bench, I hope to fit them one way or the other tonight.

Twistygit

800 posts

154 months

Tuesday 19th May 2015
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As Ged says I assembled my front hubs on the car, it just needs a little weight to get the tapers to hold. I used body weight but one didn't want to play ball so I used a ratchet strap to the 2 wishbones to pull them together

walt762

Original Poster:

240 posts

233 months

Tuesday 2nd June 2015
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Is there a trick to fitting the clutch release arm?

I am having trouble engaging the spring clip at the back of the arm at the same time as fitting the release bearing carrier is there a method for this? I checked the bible but it doesn't mention fitting.

scotty_d

6,795 posts

195 months

Friday 21st August 2015
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Hi Walter how are things progressing with the car?

walt762

Original Poster:

240 posts

233 months

Friday 21st August 2015
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Not great, I have rebuilt it but the wipers aren't working & the brakes have been bled 4 times but are still soft-ish so I have driven it home and I am waiting on my local garage to tidy it up & get the MOT..
I am sick of looking at it at present but once I get it back on the road I will be happier.

portzi

2,296 posts

176 months

Friday 21st August 2015
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can't belive the state of those wishbones after a few years, they must have had poor preparation before zinc prime and powder coating.

walt762

Original Poster:

240 posts

233 months

Friday 21st August 2015
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portzi said:
can't belive the state of those wishbones after a few years, they must have had poor preparation before zinc prime and powder coating.
To be fair the car has been mostly outside since I fitted the wishbones but I did expect better hence why I got everything stripped and 2 pack painted.

walt762

Original Poster:

240 posts

233 months

Saturday 22nd August 2015
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a few photos of the project, there is over 300 other photos on my flickr account if anyone needs a particular image.

20150624_175231 by bucky762, on Flickr

20150626_123030 by bucky762, on Flickr

20150721_163826 by bucky762, on Flickr

20150724_135428 by bucky762, on Flickr