Undressing Kate, my Chim 430 resto.
Discussion
ZNSsupercars said:
Cokes said:
ZNSsupercars said:
Cokes said:
ZNSsupercars said:
What a nice car! Why choose the Chimaera not a cerbera?
In a word, convertible And before anyone corrects me, I know the Cerbera also came as a convertible. I should have added at my budget I was willing to spend on a car at this time.
zed4 said:
ZNSsupercars said:
Cokes said:
ZNSsupercars said:
Cokes said:
ZNSsupercars said:
What a nice car! Why choose the Chimaera not a cerbera?
In a word, convertible And before anyone corrects me, I know the Cerbera also came as a convertible. I should have added at my budget I was willing to spend on a car at this time.
Cokes said:
No, I don't think it's essential to remove it but I was going to do it to ease removal of the Y piece and then manifolds.
To be honest,this is the biggest car project I've ever taken on and I was following this guide http://autogasp.com/documents/TVRChimaeraBodyLiftC...
Cokes, next weekend my plan is, having already removed the LH manifold, remove the Y-piece next and then the LH manifold. Having the LH manifold off first should allow me to rotate the Y-piece (may have to end up taking off the RH manifold to help more) against the main exhaust joint, which I know from experience can be "rather difficult" to separate. To be honest,this is the biggest car project I've ever taken on and I was following this guide http://autogasp.com/documents/TVRChimaeraBodyLiftC...
I'll let you know how much of a bard it is. Could you do likewise, then we can let the forum know our findings and help others in the future.
Sounds like a plan Ged and I was going to make a start tonight but after finding my trolley jack broken and not being able to access the main exhaust joint I went for cabin chassis bolts with mixed results.
Like how to hold a bolt still while lying under the car undoing the nut because my arms aren't long enough to do both.
Sheering the seat belt anchor bolt.
Or finding out that one of the bolts has taken a hit from underneath and pushed the outrigger plate up though the floor.
And to top it off, finding that my clutch master cylinder is leaking.
Tomorrows plan is firstly to go and buy a new trolly jack and then manifolds and Y piece are coming off.
Like how to hold a bolt still while lying under the car undoing the nut because my arms aren't long enough to do both.
Sheering the seat belt anchor bolt.
Or finding out that one of the bolts has taken a hit from underneath and pushed the outrigger plate up though the floor.
And to top it off, finding that my clutch master cylinder is leaking.
Tomorrows plan is firstly to go and buy a new trolly jack and then manifolds and Y piece are coming off.
Cokes said:
Sounds like a plan Ged and I was going to make a start tonight but after finding my trolley jack broken and not being able to access the main exhaust joint I went for cabin chassis bolts with mixed results.
I've got plenty of accessBest of luck mate. I'm just about to start my own thread.
Par for the coarse if you ask me Cokes,,, even more penetrating fluid mate.
I sheared a seat belt bolt,,, if your putting 100psi on the fker something's not free,,,
Thing is those bits of bolts are going to cause Agro when lifting the body,,
Take as long as necessary to remove bolts carefully as it'll take twice as long to remove the bits left,,?
Glad to see someone making an effort. I'll follow your thread with great interest.
I sheared a seat belt bolt,,, if your putting 100psi on the fker something's not free,,,
Thing is those bits of bolts are going to cause Agro when lifting the body,,
Take as long as necessary to remove bolts carefully as it'll take twice as long to remove the bits left,,?
Glad to see someone making an effort. I'll follow your thread with great interest.
caduceus said:
Cokes said:
Like how to hold a bolt still while lying under the car undoing the nut because my arms aren't long enough to do both.
I used mole grips to hold the nut head steady in the car, whilst undoing from underneath.Twistygit said:
I don't think anyone answered your question about removing the exhaust, sorry if they did but I would say remove it as it makes it easier to get at the stuff up inside the tunnel, such as hand brake, speed sensor and a lot of cable ties.
As I not long ago took it all out to refurb my diff I should have thought of that Thanks Twisty
Edited by Cokes on Tuesday 24th February 05:51
Twistygit said:
I don't think anyone answered your question about removing the exhaust, sorry if they did but I would say remove it as it makes it easier to get at the stuff up inside the tunnel, such as hand brake, speed sensor and a lot of cable ties.
As I not long ago took it all out to refurb my diff I should have thought of that Thanks Twisty
Edited by Cokes on Tuesday 24th February 05:53
J400GED said:
Cokes said:
Sounds like a plan Ged and I was going to make a start tonight but after finding my trolley jack broken and not being able to access the main exhaust joint I went for cabin chassis bolts with mixed results.
I've got plenty of accessBest of luck mate. I'm just about to start my own thread.
Although I might be being thick here but I still don't see how you access the joint from Y to main exhaust ?
Cokes said:
Lucky your manifold to Y are clamps, I've got about a dozen bolts on each.
Although I might be being thick here but I still don't see how you access the joint from Y to main exhaust ?
Although I might be being thick here but I still don't see how you access the joint from Y to main exhaust ?
Access is either down from the top or through the wheelarch. Another bonus is that the clamp is so rotten I can probably cut it with scissors!
J400GED said:
Access is either down from the top or through the wheelarch. Another bonus is that the clamp is so rotten I can probably cut it with scissors!
I'm going to continue with cabin bolts tonight and time allowing I'll start the manifolds and I'll be able to see what you're seeing.
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