J400 GED Chimaera Chassis refurb
Discussion
It's all my Wife's fault for buying me a borescope for Christmas!
I decided to use it to inspect the outriggers on the Chimaera and found some not so good bits!
a hole in the offside outrigger between the seatbelt mount and rear corner
Left hand side rear quarter of the outrigger.
I also found that the off side seat belt bracket in the rear wheel arch is delaminating (falling apart)
Having seen these, I decided to take the body off and refurbish the chassis.
I am noting everything and labelling everything as I go, so that refitting should be the reverse of removal and I will know how everything goes back together
My target is to be finished in time for my annual RAF reunion in October
So, some pics:
Last one before I start the strip.
Ride heights from main rails to the floor were measured at each corner. This will allow me to set the ride height prior to body fit and torque the suspension bolts and set the toe.
boot striker position was marked prior to removal - I am leaving the boot lid in place (don't want to be locked out of the boot with the battery disconnected)
Then tucked it away for safe keeping.
Windows were lowered and then, having disabled the alarm siren - I knew it was working because the first time I disconnected the battery it nearly deafened me!
- I then disconnected the battery (-ve first off and last on) and ditched the Accumate wiring - I use the cigar lighter for the trickle charger.
Next was to mark the bonnet hinge positions and remove the bonnet for access.
LH hinge marked
Bonnet held up with string.
Tub under the front, just in case it slips.
I undid the lower hinge bolts first as these were the most difficult to access, then the upper bolts.
Bonnet removed and stored out of the way.
Next step was the induction system:
Unfortunately, it was at this point that my camera started playing up. I didn't realise this until I had finished for the day and tried to download my step by step photo record.
Fortunately, as I mentioned above, I am keeping a step by step strip and build log.
AFM and ducting out of the way, it was time to move on to the LH exhaust manifold. With the HT leads disconnected and the shrouds removed, the access was as good as it was going to get and fortunately the none of the bolts were seized in and, although a bit fiddly, got all the bolts out fairly easily.
Top tip: tie a piece of string round any spanner or socket that you use in a tight area as you are bound to drop it at some point!
LH manifold removed, giving excellent access to the front exhaust joint to y-piece.
I am intending to remove the y-piece and RH manifold leaving the main part of the exhaust on the car until the body is off - unless it is absolutely necessary to remove it.
That's it until Friday as I am working away during the week. I have left my teenage daughter the task of soaking the exhaust joint every night with WD-40.
Like that's going to happen!
I decided to use it to inspect the outriggers on the Chimaera and found some not so good bits!
a hole in the offside outrigger between the seatbelt mount and rear corner
Left hand side rear quarter of the outrigger.
I also found that the off side seat belt bracket in the rear wheel arch is delaminating (falling apart)
Having seen these, I decided to take the body off and refurbish the chassis.
I am noting everything and labelling everything as I go, so that refitting should be the reverse of removal and I will know how everything goes back together
My target is to be finished in time for my annual RAF reunion in October
So, some pics:
Last one before I start the strip.
Ride heights from main rails to the floor were measured at each corner. This will allow me to set the ride height prior to body fit and torque the suspension bolts and set the toe.
boot striker position was marked prior to removal - I am leaving the boot lid in place (don't want to be locked out of the boot with the battery disconnected)
Then tucked it away for safe keeping.
Windows were lowered and then, having disabled the alarm siren - I knew it was working because the first time I disconnected the battery it nearly deafened me!
- I then disconnected the battery (-ve first off and last on) and ditched the Accumate wiring - I use the cigar lighter for the trickle charger.Next was to mark the bonnet hinge positions and remove the bonnet for access.
LH hinge marked
Bonnet held up with string.
Tub under the front, just in case it slips.
I undid the lower hinge bolts first as these were the most difficult to access, then the upper bolts.
Bonnet removed and stored out of the way.
Next step was the induction system:
Unfortunately, it was at this point that my camera started playing up. I didn't realise this until I had finished for the day and tried to download my step by step photo record.
Fortunately, as I mentioned above, I am keeping a step by step strip and build log.
AFM and ducting out of the way, it was time to move on to the LH exhaust manifold. With the HT leads disconnected and the shrouds removed, the access was as good as it was going to get and fortunately the none of the bolts were seized in and, although a bit fiddly, got all the bolts out fairly easily.
Top tip: tie a piece of string round any spanner or socket that you use in a tight area as you are bound to drop it at some point!
LH manifold removed, giving excellent access to the front exhaust joint to y-piece.
I am intending to remove the y-piece and RH manifold leaving the main part of the exhaust on the car until the body is off - unless it is absolutely necessary to remove it.
That's it until Friday as I am working away during the week. I have left my teenage daughter the task of soaking the exhaust joint every night with WD-40.
Like that's going to happen!
J400GED said:
Cokes said:
Looking good Ged
I'm sure we'll be bouncing ideas off each other throughout our projects. Or just me making daft comments and asking silly questions
What's your target finish date?I'm sure we'll be bouncing ideas off each other throughout our projects. Or just me making daft comments and asking silly questions
I started in June full time work and Saturdays 3 kids and a very twisty wife, I try for 6 hours a week on the car. Just got chassis back today from coaters. So quite slow going with the wife wanting the whole downstairs decorating before Christmas so nothing happened in December. So a bit of a juggling act but probably better to take it easyish as to not get sick. Mind it is quite rewarding (so far) but now the tricky bit of rebuilding
Like most of you guys I have a full time job which includes working most weekends and a wife and 2 daughters who also require my attention. So the only time scale I have in mind is to be finished by mid September when I am booked for a TVR run. If I don't make this target it's not the end of the world but it is what I'm working towards.
You need to set dedicated times if at all possible.
When I built a kit car I set aside every Saturday, (at least 12 hours) and 2 evenings a week. That worked well and with an understanding wife and 3 children at the time and the car was built from scratch in 6 months.
You will find that it takes forever if you snatch a few hours here and there.
Good informative thread, good luck with the job!
When I built a kit car I set aside every Saturday, (at least 12 hours) and 2 evenings a week. That worked well and with an understanding wife and 3 children at the time and the car was built from scratch in 6 months.
You will find that it takes forever if you snatch a few hours here and there.
Good informative thread, good luck with the job!
phazed said:
You need to set dedicated times if at all possible.
When I built a kit car I set aside every Saturday, (at least 12 hours) and 2 evenings a week. That worked well and with an understanding wife and 3 children at the time and the car was built from scratch in 6 months.
You will find that it takes forever if you snatch a few hours here and there.
Good informative thread, good luck with the job!
I'm finding its taking a long time as you say snatching an hour here and there, by the time I've scratched me do da's had a cup of tea think what's to do now there's half hour gone. But you have an understanding wife mine is the polar opposite When I built a kit car I set aside every Saturday, (at least 12 hours) and 2 evenings a week. That worked well and with an understanding wife and 3 children at the time and the car was built from scratch in 6 months.
You will find that it takes forever if you snatch a few hours here and there.
Good informative thread, good luck with the job!
portzi said:
J400GED said:
Cokes said:
Looking good Ged
I'm sure we'll be bouncing ideas off each other throughout our projects. Or just me making daft comments and asking silly questions
What's your target finish date?I'm sure we'll be bouncing ideas off each other throughout our projects. Or just me making daft comments and asking silly questions
phazed said:
You need to set dedicated times if at all possible.
When I built a kit car I set aside every Saturday, (at least 12 hours) and 2 evenings a week. That worked well and with an understanding wife and 3 children at the time and the car was built from scratch in 6 months.
You will find that it takes forever if you snatch a few hours here and there.
Good informative thread, good luck with the job!
At present I work away from home Monday to Thursday, When I built a kit car I set aside every Saturday, (at least 12 hours) and 2 evenings a week. That worked well and with an understanding wife and 3 children at the time and the car was built from scratch in 6 months.
You will find that it takes forever if you snatch a few hours here and there.
Good informative thread, good luck with the job!
the daughter is at school on a Friday out on a Saturday and the Wife works Friday and Saturday, so the intention is to get at least 16 hours a week each week over Friday to Sunday. Project wise, the bonus to working away Monday to Thursday is that I can assimilate what I have done, sort out shopping lists etc., work out any mods prior to rebuild - currently I have a mod for the Otter switch and Fan over-ride loom - and plan what to do on the next weekend, including whether to steam ahead with the strip and then do the mods later, or do the mods as I go along - basic Project Planning and Management.
Also, by being away I can't work on the car and as every one knows, absence makes the heart grow fonder.
J400GED said:
phazed said:
You need to set dedicated times if at all possible.
When I built a kit car I set aside every Saturday, (at least 12 hours) and 2 evenings a week. That worked well and with an understanding wife and 3 children at the time and the car was built from scratch in 6 months.
You will find that it takes forever if you snatch a few hours here and there.
Good informative thread, good luck with the job!
At present I work away from home Monday to Thursday, When I built a kit car I set aside every Saturday, (at least 12 hours) and 2 evenings a week. That worked well and with an understanding wife and 3 children at the time and the car was built from scratch in 6 months.
You will find that it takes forever if you snatch a few hours here and there.
Good informative thread, good luck with the job!
the daughter is at school on a Friday out on a Saturday and the Wife works Friday and Saturday, so the intention is to get at least 16 hours a week each week over Friday to Sunday. Project wise, the bonus to working away Monday to Thursday is that I can assimilate what I have done, sort out shopping lists etc., work out any mods prior to rebuild - currently I have a mod for the Otter switch and Fan over-ride loom - and plan what to do on the next weekend, including whether to steam ahead with the strip and then do the mods later, or do the mods as I go along - basic Project Planning and Management.
Also, by being away I can't work on the car and as every one knows, absence makes the heart grow fonder.
J400GED said:
phazed said:
You need to set dedicated times if at all possible.
When I built a kit car I set aside every Saturday, (at least 12 hours) and 2 evenings a week. That worked well and with an understanding wife and 3 children at the time and the car was built from scratch in 6 months.
You will find that it takes forever if you snatch a few hours here and there.
Good informative thread, good luck with the job!
At present I work away from home Monday to Thursday, When I built a kit car I set aside every Saturday, (at least 12 hours) and 2 evenings a week. That worked well and with an understanding wife and 3 children at the time and the car was built from scratch in 6 months.
You will find that it takes forever if you snatch a few hours here and there.
Good informative thread, good luck with the job!
the daughter is at school on a Friday out on a Saturday and the Wife works Friday and Saturday, so the intention is to get at least 16 hours a week each week over Friday to Sunday. Project wise, the bonus to working away Monday to Thursday is that I can assimilate what I have done, sort out shopping lists etc., work out any mods prior to rebuild - currently I have a mod for the Otter switch and Fan over-ride loom - and plan what to do on the next weekend, including whether to steam ahead with the strip and then do the mods later, or do the mods as I go along - basic Project Planning and Management.
Also, by being away I can't work on the car and as every one knows, absence makes the heart grow fonder.
Right, today's update:
After speaking with Engineer1949 for an hour or two this morning, that's the chassis painting/repairs sorted - only 25 mins from home as well - result!
Anyway, here's today's efforts:
First up was drain the cooling system and strip out all the hoses from the top of the block through the rad back to the water pump.
took off the Header and expansion tanks and the rad - all M8 fixings
sorry, I removed the y-piece before the radiator, this aided rad removal by allowing it to tip a lot further backwards when lifting it out.
Once the rad was out I cut the carbon canister hose below the right hand y-piece clamp - this will be re-connected using a straight connector on rebuild.
Then came the RH O2 sensor, the carbon hose to manifold and the brake servo to manifold connections.
Next up were the right hand HT leads and shrouds, the bonnet catch and the heater pipes on the right hand side of the engine - this was to allow access to the manifold bolts. to gain access to the top heater hoses I had to disconnect the fuel feed and return hoses - sealed with fingers from latex gloves and plastic bungs.
Number 34 in the above pic if the front one of the two heater hoses.
After all that was done, it was a simple case of removing the right hand manifold bolts and sliding out the manifold.
Today's top tip came from Engineer1949: #4 cylinder lower manifold bolt can be a right b
ard to get out and John's suggestion was to remove all the other manifold bolts and then wiggle the manifold which could then basically destroy what's left of the gasket and allow the bolt to crack off. Before John gave me this tip I had already packed up for the night ready to have another crack at this bolt in the morning, but as you can see I now have both manifolds off. 
Cheers John
So far I haven't been under the car or had to jack it up.
Jobs for tomorrow are:
Remove rear anti-roll bar
Remove Exhaust
Remove Speed sensor
Slacken off handbrake
Disconnect reverse light switch and hand brake switch
Disconnect the fuel hose from tank to pump - and obviously drain the fuel tank.
Disconnect the front end lower electrics and engine loom.
Not sure I'll get them all done but will report back tomorrow evening.
After speaking with Engineer1949 for an hour or two this morning, that's the chassis painting/repairs sorted - only 25 mins from home as well - result!
Anyway, here's today's efforts:
First up was drain the cooling system and strip out all the hoses from the top of the block through the rad back to the water pump.
took off the Header and expansion tanks and the rad - all M8 fixings
sorry, I removed the y-piece before the radiator, this aided rad removal by allowing it to tip a lot further backwards when lifting it out.
Once the rad was out I cut the carbon canister hose below the right hand y-piece clamp - this will be re-connected using a straight connector on rebuild.
Then came the RH O2 sensor, the carbon hose to manifold and the brake servo to manifold connections.
Next up were the right hand HT leads and shrouds, the bonnet catch and the heater pipes on the right hand side of the engine - this was to allow access to the manifold bolts. to gain access to the top heater hoses I had to disconnect the fuel feed and return hoses - sealed with fingers from latex gloves and plastic bungs.
Number 34 in the above pic if the front one of the two heater hoses.
After all that was done, it was a simple case of removing the right hand manifold bolts and sliding out the manifold.
Today's top tip came from Engineer1949: #4 cylinder lower manifold bolt can be a right b
ard to get out and John's suggestion was to remove all the other manifold bolts and then wiggle the manifold which could then basically destroy what's left of the gasket and allow the bolt to crack off. Before John gave me this tip I had already packed up for the night ready to have another crack at this bolt in the morning, but as you can see I now have both manifolds off. Cheers John
So far I haven't been under the car or had to jack it up.
Jobs for tomorrow are:
Remove rear anti-roll bar
Remove Exhaust
Remove Speed sensor
Slacken off handbrake
Disconnect reverse light switch and hand brake switch
Disconnect the fuel hose from tank to pump - and obviously drain the fuel tank.
Disconnect the front end lower electrics and engine loom.
Not sure I'll get them all done but will report back tomorrow evening.
Edited by J400GED on Friday 27th February 23:30
J400GED said:
Disconnect the fuel hose from tank to pump - and obviously drain the fuel tank.
Good progress so far Ged 
Re draining the fuel tank - I don't mean to teach you how to suck eggs, but make sure you have more than enough containers to catch and store the petrol! I thought I did, and there was a lot more in the tank than the gauge would have me believe
Really put a spanner in the works that day...caduceus said:
Good progress so far Ged
Re draining the fuel tank - I don't mean to teach you how to suck eggs, but make sure you have more than enough containers to catch and store the petrol! I thought I did, and there was a lot more in the tank than the gauge would have me believe Really put a spanner in the works that day...
Thanks Cad, I've got 50 litres storage capacity and about 1/4 of a tank of fuel to drain, so hopefully that will be adequate. Re draining the fuel tank - I don't mean to teach you how to suck eggs, but make sure you have more than enough containers to catch and store the petrol! I thought I did, and there was a lot more in the tank than the gauge would have me believe
Really put a spanner in the works that day...Gassing Station | Chimaera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff