T5 Gearbox Linkage
Discussion
Sardonicus said:
ts the shorter shift rail Matthew necessary because the gear sticks moved closer to the selector forks, although its possible to cut your one down and drill holes for the the roll pins but for the cost involved I didn't bother it was peanuts anyway 
Another item to add to the list. Many thanks for the explanation Simon, may I ask where you sourced that from please?Pupp said:
When you guys have sorted a definitive shopping list, can you post it up...
This is my current shopping list although Simon has just pointed out something that is missing so this is by no means definitive...Shopping List
S10 Tail Housing
John Reid at Readman racing
Counter Gear Stabiliser - US
This kit gets really good writeup regarding solving the 5th gear weakness with the T5 box:
http://www.5speeds.com/t5.htm
Bronze Shift Cup - US
This replaces the standard plastic item, prone to breakage and gives a better feel, again good reviews
http://www.thegearbox.org/catalog/item/3819132/708...
Modified Hurst Quickshift - US
Optional quick shift, as specced by Chimpongas, having read his posts I agree this one looks the best on the market apparently the throw and tension can be fully adjusted unlike the similar Burton power version
http://www.core-shifters.com/collections/swap-base...
PLEASE NOTE - Needs to be ordered with as "2.13 Fulcrum height for 6” stick”
Others please feel free to update this or use as a basis for the definitive list.
Contact Paul the US transmission guy Matthew he knows what you will need he supplied mine http://www.5speeds.com/ if you need any help contct me via Email
Beautiful custom 19lbs chromo steel flywheel arrives on the scene..
Along with a set of SC-Power engine mounts...
These engine mounts are very expensive so they better last and tie the engine in nicely
On the basis of "In for a penny, in for a pound" I've also decided to go with the 5th gear retaining plate from Paul and the brass shifter fork pads from APM.
So here's a final summary of parts to complete the project:
The Full Kit
1. S10 Tail Housing (the heart of the project)
2. S10 Selector rod (needed to compliment the S10 tail housing)
3. Fancy billet speedo bung (not really needed as I have an electric speedo pickup)
4. Hyundai rubber gearbox breather bung (cheap at £2.50 and a perfect fit)
5. 5th gear retaining plate and end float shim kit (probably overkill but setting the end float with help ensure gear selection is as best as it can be)
6. Brass shifer fork pads (may not be needed but we'll only know once the box is out so may as well have these upgraded pads to hand and fit them whatever my nylon pads look like)
7. Brass shift cup (reported to enhance the shift feel)
8. Custom modified Hurst Quickshift (not sure yet if it's really going to be any better than the TVR/Camaro one but it is reported to give better feel, faster and more direct shifting)
9. Custom 19lbs chromo steel flywheel (Just because I know I can go lighter than my already lightened standard cast iron flywheel and the benefits will be felt in the way the car picks up revs on the throttle - a lighter flywheel is also reported to help improve gear changes as mass is reduced)
10. Lloyd Specialist Developments lighter clutch kit (claimed to quite happily handle the power of a supercharged Chimaera yet gives a lovely light pedal - all for a reasonable cost)
11. SC-Power special compound, reinforced and dimentionally correct engine mounts (expensive but my originals are old and soft causing the engine to jump about a bit - securing the engine more rigidly to the chassis may also help a little with the gear change)
The only component missing from the above list is the dogleg adapter for the gear stick as I have chosen to recycle my existing TVR one. There will invariably need to be some fabrication work in this area to get the alignment spot on so adapting my existing TVR dogleg seems the most sensible & cost effective rout to take.
I will also be returning to ATF after a successful trial period using Penrite SIN fully synthetic transmission fluid, the SIN fluid actually improved the shift slightly and resolved some synchro slippage issues when power shifting into 5th so I may still return to this oil. However, for the purpose of this project I want to start at a base line which means a return to the BW specified ATF (well for the short term anyway).
The above 11 parts plus fabrication of a rear gearbox mount and the adaption of my existing dogleg are designed to all work towards achieving my two (but linked) objectives:
1. To create the nicest shifting T5 we can in a TVR Chimaera
2. To fit a clutch that's both light and progressive in it's engagement
The ultimate idea being to enhance the driving pleasure of what is already an excellent old school driver's car.
At the end of the day I've spent quite a bit of money on a whole bunch of components based merely on the theory they should deliver the desired result, so I freely admit there are no real guarantees the project will be a success. It has proved a little more costly than I'd hoped but I have stopped short of other temptations such as a hydraulic release bearing on the grounds of expense and reliability/ease of field based repair on one of my continental trips.
My guess is only some of the new 11 components will help and others will prove unnecessary, but when you take a gearbox out of a car you are 75% into the labour bill, so it makes sense to me just to go the whole hog and throw everything at the project while the box is out.
I'm really just trying to give the project the very best chance of success, the real work and clever fabrication has been handed over to Lloyd Specialist Developments because I know they totally understand my objectives and will do everything they can to give me exactly what I want.
When we've finished the whole experiment on 'Ol Gasbag' we will have leaned what works and what doesn't, the Lloyd Team will also have a pattern for the rear gearbox mount and know their way around the job. This means the next inline to commission this work will benefit from what I'm trying to achieve here and they should ultimately be able to complete the project a little cheaper too.
Look out for my honest review of how it all pans out in the next few weeks
Along with a set of SC-Power engine mounts...
These engine mounts are very expensive so they better last and tie the engine in nicely
On the basis of "In for a penny, in for a pound" I've also decided to go with the 5th gear retaining plate from Paul and the brass shifter fork pads from APM.
So here's a final summary of parts to complete the project:
The Full Kit
1. S10 Tail Housing (the heart of the project)
2. S10 Selector rod (needed to compliment the S10 tail housing)
3. Fancy billet speedo bung (not really needed as I have an electric speedo pickup)
4. Hyundai rubber gearbox breather bung (cheap at £2.50 and a perfect fit)
5. 5th gear retaining plate and end float shim kit (probably overkill but setting the end float with help ensure gear selection is as best as it can be)
6. Brass shifer fork pads (may not be needed but we'll only know once the box is out so may as well have these upgraded pads to hand and fit them whatever my nylon pads look like)
7. Brass shift cup (reported to enhance the shift feel)
8. Custom modified Hurst Quickshift (not sure yet if it's really going to be any better than the TVR/Camaro one but it is reported to give better feel, faster and more direct shifting)
9. Custom 19lbs chromo steel flywheel (Just because I know I can go lighter than my already lightened standard cast iron flywheel and the benefits will be felt in the way the car picks up revs on the throttle - a lighter flywheel is also reported to help improve gear changes as mass is reduced)
10. Lloyd Specialist Developments lighter clutch kit (claimed to quite happily handle the power of a supercharged Chimaera yet gives a lovely light pedal - all for a reasonable cost)
11. SC-Power special compound, reinforced and dimentionally correct engine mounts (expensive but my originals are old and soft causing the engine to jump about a bit - securing the engine more rigidly to the chassis may also help a little with the gear change)
The only component missing from the above list is the dogleg adapter for the gear stick as I have chosen to recycle my existing TVR one. There will invariably need to be some fabrication work in this area to get the alignment spot on so adapting my existing TVR dogleg seems the most sensible & cost effective rout to take.
I will also be returning to ATF after a successful trial period using Penrite SIN fully synthetic transmission fluid, the SIN fluid actually improved the shift slightly and resolved some synchro slippage issues when power shifting into 5th so I may still return to this oil. However, for the purpose of this project I want to start at a base line which means a return to the BW specified ATF (well for the short term anyway).
The above 11 parts plus fabrication of a rear gearbox mount and the adaption of my existing dogleg are designed to all work towards achieving my two (but linked) objectives:
1. To create the nicest shifting T5 we can in a TVR Chimaera
2. To fit a clutch that's both light and progressive in it's engagement
The ultimate idea being to enhance the driving pleasure of what is already an excellent old school driver's car.
At the end of the day I've spent quite a bit of money on a whole bunch of components based merely on the theory they should deliver the desired result, so I freely admit there are no real guarantees the project will be a success. It has proved a little more costly than I'd hoped but I have stopped short of other temptations such as a hydraulic release bearing on the grounds of expense and reliability/ease of field based repair on one of my continental trips.
My guess is only some of the new 11 components will help and others will prove unnecessary, but when you take a gearbox out of a car you are 75% into the labour bill, so it makes sense to me just to go the whole hog and throw everything at the project while the box is out.
I'm really just trying to give the project the very best chance of success, the real work and clever fabrication has been handed over to Lloyd Specialist Developments because I know they totally understand my objectives and will do everything they can to give me exactly what I want.
When we've finished the whole experiment on 'Ol Gasbag' we will have leaned what works and what doesn't, the Lloyd Team will also have a pattern for the rear gearbox mount and know their way around the job. This means the next inline to commission this work will benefit from what I'm trying to achieve here and they should ultimately be able to complete the project a little cheaper too.
Look out for my honest review of how it all pans out in the next few weeks
Edited by ChimpOnGas on Friday 30th October 14:25
MPoxon said:
Counter Gear Stabiliser - US
This kit gets really good writeup regarding solving the 5th gear weakness with the T5 box:
http://www.5speeds.com/t5.htm
Having suffered a 5th gear failure on the way to the Ring earlier this year, it seemed like a no-brainer fitting this kit. However, it's not easy to do (setting pre-load is virtually impossible), but I would still recommend it.This kit gets really good writeup regarding solving the 5th gear weakness with the T5 box:
http://www.5speeds.com/t5.htm
ukkid35 said:
Having suffered a 5th gear failure on the way to the Ring earlier this year, it seemed like a no-brainer fitting this kit. However, it's not easy to do (setting pre-load is virtually impossible), but I would still recommend it.
Impossibe really ? never had issues with preloading new taper rollers or re-assembling used ones and gearbox rebuilding is not my speciality 😐 It's not difficult you get a feel for what your doing Sardonicus said:
mpossibe really ? never had issues with preloading new taper rollers or re-assembling used ones and gearbox rebuilding is not my speciality ?? It's not difficult you get a feel for what your doing
If you can't remove fifth, then you can't set preload on the countershaft. I guessed and crossed fingers and toes. It's done about 2k miles (including two days at the Ring) and not self destructed yet, so I'm hoping all is well.Just to clarify, in most disassembly instructions 5th is smaller than the aperture in the main case, so you can easily remove the output shaft. Not so in the TVR T5WC, therefore your options are somewhat limited.
Edited by ukkid35 on Saturday 31st October 21:18
Ok, just dropped 'Ol Gasbag' at Lloyd's for the gearbox mods and lighter clutch.
Let's see how the S10 tail housing and other bits and bobs affects the gear shift feel?
Hopefully there will be a meaningful improvement I can feel?
One thing is for sure I'm really looking forward to a lighter clutch and I very much doubt I'll miss myhot dragging Helix.
Here's to a further improvement to the way the car drives.
Let's see how the S10 tail housing and other bits and bobs affects the gear shift feel?
Hopefully there will be a meaningful improvement I can feel?
One thing is for sure I'm really looking forward to a lighter clutch and I very much doubt I'll miss myhot dragging Helix.
Here's to a further improvement to the way the car drives.
Hello.
Apologies for hijacking this thread but someone may be able to advise. I have a 2000 Chim 500 which has the later style tail housing. When I bought the car it had a very slight bearing noise and being fussy I decided to get this sorted. I have had a new set of bearings fitted and after covering a couple of hundred miles, the noise is still there, in fact noisier than before. The gearchange too is more notchy than previously.
A new clutch was fitted at the same time, despite the low mileage of 28k.
I am sure the noise is from the bearings but am equally puzzled and disappointed! Spigot bearing noise has been suggested but the noise goes when the clutch is pressed down.
Thoughts appreciated!
Regards Chris.
Apologies for hijacking this thread but someone may be able to advise. I have a 2000 Chim 500 which has the later style tail housing. When I bought the car it had a very slight bearing noise and being fussy I decided to get this sorted. I have had a new set of bearings fitted and after covering a couple of hundred miles, the noise is still there, in fact noisier than before. The gearchange too is more notchy than previously.
A new clutch was fitted at the same time, despite the low mileage of 28k.
I am sure the noise is from the bearings but am equally puzzled and disappointed! Spigot bearing noise has been suggested but the noise goes when the clutch is pressed down.
Thoughts appreciated!
Regards Chris.
s3c chris said:
Hello.
Apologies for hijacking this thread but someone may be able to advise. I have a 2000 Chim 500 which has the later style tail housing. When I bought the car it had a very slight bearing noise and being fussy I decided to get this sorted. I have had a new set of bearings fitted and after covering a couple of hundred miles, the noise is still there, in fact noisier than before. The gearchange too is more notchy than previously.
A new clutch was fitted at the same time, despite the low mileage of 28k.
I am sure the noise is from the bearings but am equally puzzled and disappointed! Spigot bearing noise has been suggested but the noise goes when the clutch is pressed down.
Thoughts appreciated!
Regards Chris.
sounds like input shaft front bearing or counter shaft front bearing woes IMO does it change if you select any gear ?Apologies for hijacking this thread but someone may be able to advise. I have a 2000 Chim 500 which has the later style tail housing. When I bought the car it had a very slight bearing noise and being fussy I decided to get this sorted. I have had a new set of bearings fitted and after covering a couple of hundred miles, the noise is still there, in fact noisier than before. The gearchange too is more notchy than previously.
A new clutch was fitted at the same time, despite the low mileage of 28k.
I am sure the noise is from the bearings but am equally puzzled and disappointed! Spigot bearing noise has been suggested but the noise goes when the clutch is pressed down.
Thoughts appreciated!
Regards Chris.
Thanks for that.
The noise is pronounced whilst the car is idling. There is a slight noise whilst driving, most audible in 3rd I would say, but it disappears if you lift off the throttle or dip the clutch. I have listened to the gearbox in my former Chim and thankfully for Paul, its' new owner, it is annoyingly silent.
I know the bearings have been changed as I was given the old ones and I know I am being fussy. I'm sure the box will have to come out again....
Regards Chris.
The noise is pronounced whilst the car is idling. There is a slight noise whilst driving, most audible in 3rd I would say, but it disappears if you lift off the throttle or dip the clutch. I have listened to the gearbox in my former Chim and thankfully for Paul, its' new owner, it is annoyingly silent.
I know the bearings have been changed as I was given the old ones and I know I am being fussy. I'm sure the box will have to come out again....
Regards Chris.
s3c chris said:
Thanks for that.
The noise is pronounced whilst the car is idling. There is a slight noise whilst driving, most audible in 3rd I would say, but it disappears if you lift off the throttle or dip the clutch. I have listened to the gearbox in my former Chim and thankfully for Paul, its' new owner, it is annoyingly silent.
I know the bearings have been changed as I was given the old ones and I know I am being fussy. I'm sure the box will have to come out again....
Regards Chris.
Its imperative that the preloads are set correctly on the taper roller bearings supporting the shafts fitted to the T5 too loose you will get noise too tight and you can expect premature bearings failure The noise is pronounced whilst the car is idling. There is a slight noise whilst driving, most audible in 3rd I would say, but it disappears if you lift off the throttle or dip the clutch. I have listened to the gearbox in my former Chim and thankfully for Paul, its' new owner, it is annoyingly silent.
I know the bearings have been changed as I was given the old ones and I know I am being fussy. I'm sure the box will have to come out again....
Regards Chris.
Hi again.
I think you may well be right. The people that did the bearings for me said the original noise was probably due to there being no preload on the original set up and they had made up shims to correct it. Oh well it seems it will be another job to get done but do I go back to the same place or find somewhere else? I just know it isn't right!
Regards Chris
I think you may well be right. The people that did the bearings for me said the original noise was probably due to there being no preload on the original set up and they had made up shims to correct it. Oh well it seems it will be another job to get done but do I go back to the same place or find somewhere else? I just know it isn't right!
Regards Chris
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