Removing the differential (BTR)
Discussion
I've exhausted Google and have no clear steer on this, so am back here following my previous post for some worldly advice! Please help!
My diff is dripping. The oil hasn't been changed for a couple of years, but is nice and clean none the less. I don't have any serious clunking noises, so I am assuming that there is no serious issues with it.
I've managed a brief peak underneath with a mirror and a torch and the oil seems to be running from front to back (down the fins), which would suggest that this is the pinion seal. However, it is difficult to tell for definite as there is plenty of oil on it at the moment. After hours of searching through the interweb abyss, it would appear that to reseal the backplate, the diff would need to come out (access and space). I also have read that some individuals have had loads of difficulty getting the diff out and even more getting it back in! Plus then there is the issue of getting to the pinion seal and the woes of the crush washer/ nut.
I am intending to do this on axle stands, so would be very grateful for as much advice, real life experiences and as many images as possible! I've no issues getting the exhaust and the prop out as I've done that before, its just the diff I need advice on
Cheers
Chuffy
My diff is dripping. The oil hasn't been changed for a couple of years, but is nice and clean none the less. I don't have any serious clunking noises, so I am assuming that there is no serious issues with it.
I've managed a brief peak underneath with a mirror and a torch and the oil seems to be running from front to back (down the fins), which would suggest that this is the pinion seal. However, it is difficult to tell for definite as there is plenty of oil on it at the moment. After hours of searching through the interweb abyss, it would appear that to reseal the backplate, the diff would need to come out (access and space). I also have read that some individuals have had loads of difficulty getting the diff out and even more getting it back in! Plus then there is the issue of getting to the pinion seal and the woes of the crush washer/ nut.
I am intending to do this on axle stands, so would be very grateful for as much advice, real life experiences and as many images as possible! I've no issues getting the exhaust and the prop out as I've done that before, its just the diff I need advice on
Cheers
Chuffy
Chuffy, if you have a look at my chassis refurb thread, there is a write up describing how to change the diff pinion seal. Mine is a GKN diff but it is the same principle.
I did mine on a bench but would imagine it's do-able with the diff in the car - just remove the rear anti-roll bar, exhaust and prop.
Hope this helps.
Ged
I did mine on a bench but would imagine it's do-able with the diff in the car - just remove the rear anti-roll bar, exhaust and prop.
Hope this helps.
Ged
You might be able to do the seal with the diff in place but if you have to drop the diff,
Dropped mine few years ago:
Exhaust and prop shaft off
Rear wheels off
Undo all the drive shaft bolts
Undo the lower upright bolts and jack the upright out of the way to allow you to get the drive shafts out
Zip lock sandwich bags for the greasy drive shaft ends
Two very long extension bars to remove the rear diff nut
Remove the speedo pick up probe (give the front end of the probe thread a good clean and a good coat of oil/grease as the brass and aluminium will corrode together (you might be able to get the diff out with the probe in place but it looked like a no brainer when I did mine)
Undo the front mounting bolts and support the diff on a jack
Unbolt the front plates from the diff (8mm A/F internal hex I think)
Protect the chassis as the drive shaft flanges will drop on to the chassis rails and pull the powder coat off.
Now you can drive out the three bolts holding the diff in.
At this point get a friend to help you as the diff is pretty heavy and it requires an amount of twisting to get it out, one side goes up to allow you to get the other flange under the lower chassis rail.
I removed mine by myself but used a jack and some straps to help me lower it but there was no way I could have got it back in place by myself.
If you've still got knuckles left you might even consider replacing the diff mount bushes!
Good luck mate!
Dave
Dropped mine few years ago:
Exhaust and prop shaft off
Rear wheels off
Undo all the drive shaft bolts
Undo the lower upright bolts and jack the upright out of the way to allow you to get the drive shafts out
Zip lock sandwich bags for the greasy drive shaft ends
Two very long extension bars to remove the rear diff nut
Remove the speedo pick up probe (give the front end of the probe thread a good clean and a good coat of oil/grease as the brass and aluminium will corrode together (you might be able to get the diff out with the probe in place but it looked like a no brainer when I did mine)
Undo the front mounting bolts and support the diff on a jack
Unbolt the front plates from the diff (8mm A/F internal hex I think)
Protect the chassis as the drive shaft flanges will drop on to the chassis rails and pull the powder coat off.
Now you can drive out the three bolts holding the diff in.
At this point get a friend to help you as the diff is pretty heavy and it requires an amount of twisting to get it out, one side goes up to allow you to get the other flange under the lower chassis rail.
I removed mine by myself but used a jack and some straps to help me lower it but there was no way I could have got it back in place by myself.
If you've still got knuckles left you might even consider replacing the diff mount bushes!
Good luck mate!
Dave
I agree, removal and refitting is a pain.
To make things easier, I have a transmission jack that makes the job single handed.
Christian, if you are coming over then I will be working from home on Tuesday.
I suggest an earlyish start to ensure completion for the drive home
You can easily Polybush the 2 side mounts but the rear one might be tough to do within the time constraints.
To make things easier, I have a transmission jack that makes the job single handed.
Christian, if you are coming over then I will be working from home on Tuesday.
I suggest an earlyish start to ensure completion for the drive home
You can easily Polybush the 2 side mounts but the rear one might be tough to do within the time constraints.
For info, it can help to cut an access panel above the diff, effectively the whole of the rear parcel shelf thing. Use the shape of the chassis tubes as guide and half an hour with a dremel and you have easy access to the bolts and you can lower and raise the diff from above with straps, hoist etc. To refit, make a flange for the panel out of ally or fibreglass, whatever you are most comfortable working with.
While you are there, check out the diff mounting bushes and the fuel filter.
Ian.
While you are there, check out the diff mounting bushes and the fuel filter.
Ian.
Cheers for this Ian.
I've seen that on one of the threads and think it is a good idea.
I only bought the two front bushes for the diff, based on time and availability. I tried several places for polybushes at a reasonable price and all were out of stock, with a few days lead time for orders. In the end, I bought rubber ones from Racetech and had them delivered direct to Peter's via SD, but even the rear one in rubber wasn't available. All a bit short notice.
I've seen that on one of the threads and think it is a good idea.
I only bought the two front bushes for the diff, based on time and availability. I tried several places for polybushes at a reasonable price and all were out of stock, with a few days lead time for orders. In the end, I bought rubber ones from Racetech and had them delivered direct to Peter's via SD, but even the rear one in rubber wasn't available. All a bit short notice.
Well I owe Phazed a huge amount of gratitude for his assistance and hospitality yesterday, very much appreciated. Alas, I couldn't get the damn thing out. I fought with it for hours. I think the hole in the boot is definitely the way forward to remove the bracket from the top bush to facilitate clearance;or; to remove the two top locking nuts on the side brackets. I had to admit defeat, but thankfully Peter lent me hand getting it back together.
Also, what size spanner is it for the filler nut on the BTR? I couldn't get it off. It's possibly a 29mm (30mm too bug and 28mm too small), but suspect it may be an imperial size. I need to get one to check the diff levels.
I thought the exhaust manifolds were bad when I first did them, but the diff was a nightmare and that's with Peters two post lift and assistance.
Also, what size spanner is it for the filler nut on the BTR? I couldn't get it off. It's possibly a 29mm (30mm too bug and 28mm too small), but suspect it may be an imperial size. I need to get one to check the diff levels.
I thought the exhaust manifolds were bad when I first did them, but the diff was a nightmare and that's with Peters two post lift and assistance.
Edited by Chuffmeister on Wednesday 22 April 13:55
Had you definitely ruled out the breather valve on the top of the diff? I fitted an extension pipe to mine
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Thanks Peter. The M25 and the A20 were closed on the way back. So much for a smooth ride! The rear prop seal on the gearbox appears to have sorted that leak. All dry this morning the garage. Once I get the diff filler bolt off, I'll check the levels and then look at the breather mod as above.
Peter, let me know if you've not located those sockets and I'll get a couple on order.
Peter, let me know if you've not located those sockets and I'll get a couple on order.
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