Discussion
DangerousDerek said:
Pants. A set back i didnt need.
These are supposed to be brand new Crower solid lifters
Looks like the person packing didn't wear his gloves, very acidic fingers maybe. Will it clean off? These are supposed to be brand new Crower solid lifters
I've seen this on freshly turned or ground steel parts , machinist has made them the day before had his clean hands on them whilst packing them away, come the morning all rusted, you're better having hands with coolant and oil on them whilst handling precision machined parts funny as that sounds !!!!!
Edited by portzi on Saturday 20th June 15:48
Edited by portzi on Saturday 20th June 15:49
DangerousDerek said:
Yes it wouldn't suprise me if yours was very similar Daz.
I think i got a fair deal overall from Roland at ACR.
Block work, crank, rods, pistons, bearings and seals £2800.
An engine that spec built must be over 6k built ,how many hours do you think it takes to build ? looks like a very good business .I think i got a fair deal overall from Roland at ACR.
Block work, crank, rods, pistons, bearings and seals £2800.
Sardonicus said:
Back em Derek its not worth the risk 
I wouldnt fit em even if cleaned off there will still be damage however small and seeing these have the potential to eat you new motor
I think that you are right, microscopic pitting will start wear in a short time. I wouldnt fit em even if cleaned off there will still be damage however small and seeing these have the potential to eat you new motor The poor flat tap pet cam is under enough pressure with double valve springs!
Paul answered my email and said he would sort it out on Monday. By that i assume he means sending me a fresh set.
I got bigger problems however. The new crank is sticking at less than 70lb on the main ARPs and i see a crack in the thin metal behind the bottom of the replaced top hat liner. I am waiting on Roland to get back to me.
In the meantime i m trying to figure out how to set up my dial gauge to check the crank for any run out.
I think it will have to go back to ACR for a line bore maybe.
I got bigger problems however. The new crank is sticking at less than 70lb on the main ARPs and i see a crack in the thin metal behind the bottom of the replaced top hat liner. I am waiting on Roland to get back to me.
In the meantime i m trying to figure out how to set up my dial gauge to check the crank for any run out.
I think it will have to go back to ACR for a line bore maybe.
I have tried studs on the mains in the past and found the same as you when done up to 70ish. Crank goes tight.
The standard bolts only go to 52lbft. When re tried at that everything was fine and that engine ran great. Never bothered with studs since.
If you think about it 70 is a big increase plus you have the fine, lubed thread of the arps`s, so its going to create a lot more pressure.
Maybe the answer is a line bore with them done up to the torque you want. Or dont use them.
ETA. John Eales told me to forget studs on the bottom end. he said a standard cross bolted bottom end is good enough for anything and thats all he uses and recommends.
The standard bolts only go to 52lbft. When re tried at that everything was fine and that engine ran great. Never bothered with studs since.
If you think about it 70 is a big increase plus you have the fine, lubed thread of the arps`s, so its going to create a lot more pressure.
Maybe the answer is a line bore with them done up to the torque you want. Or dont use them.
ETA. John Eales told me to forget studs on the bottom end. he said a standard cross bolted bottom end is good enough for anything and thats all he uses and recommends.
Edited by carsy on Sunday 21st June 10:08
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