Discussion
phazed said:
What valve clearances are you going to use cold Derek?
Don't forget, time in three times and check four times, you only have one chance!
I have the JP timing gears. Its not that difficult. Having done it fairly recently should be easy. Will double check though, i am checking everything carefully on this one.Don't forget, time in three times and check four times, you only have one chance!
Not got to thinking about lash yet, got work to do on the JE outrigger posts first.
phazed said:
Both Simon and my posts wouldn't fit over the shafts.
We had to ease the insides so they slipped over the shafts.
Why design a part if it doesn't fit?
Maybe they are designed for shafts at the lower end of tolerances.We had to ease the insides so they slipped over the shafts.
Why design a part if it doesn't fit?
John did phone me and said i need to drill open the front posts to 10.3-10.5mm and 8mm deep for the oil supply to be sufficient.
phazed said:
Right, from memory after a few vinos.
Forget the dots and adjustments.
Find and make your TDC pointer and aim it at your timing disc.
Find TDC, (after setting the cam timing approx).
Set up your dial gauge on the rocker end of inlet, cylinder No1.
Turn crank counting from TDC and the first movement of the dial gauge should be at the setting of the cam specific,(ie, 108 degrees).
If out, move the chain around a tooth or 2 until you get the nearest to it.
When you do, reverse the engine rotation and take the average inbetween clockwise and anti-clockwise rotation.
You will then end up with the inlet starting to open at about 108 degrees before TDC.
Job done.
I usually check several times and end up taking half a day, (including tea breaks)
Too many vinos?Forget the dots and adjustments.
Find and make your TDC pointer and aim it at your timing disc.
Find TDC, (after setting the cam timing approx).
Set up your dial gauge on the rocker end of inlet, cylinder No1.
Turn crank counting from TDC and the first movement of the dial gauge should be at the setting of the cam specific,(ie, 108 degrees).
If out, move the chain around a tooth or 2 until you get the nearest to it.
When you do, reverse the engine rotation and take the average inbetween clockwise and anti-clockwise rotation.
You will then end up with the inlet starting to open at about 108 degrees before TDC.
Job done.
I usually check several times and end up taking half a day, (including tea breaks)
I have followed 3 or 4 tried and tested methods and the cam is still 4 degrees retarded on 6 degrees advance on the JP.
Need a nights sleep on it.
phazed said:
1 tooth on the camshaft sprocket is not 20°.
You should be able to get within a degree give or take.
1 tooth on the cam sprocket is 10 degrees but this is multiplied by 2 as the crank sprocket is half the size.You should be able to get within a degree give or take.
The cam turns half as fast as the crank. So 10 degrees on the cam = 20 on the crank and thats where the timing is taken from.
Its not possible to flip the crank sprocket and it makes no difference if you flip the cam sprocket.
I think we are all going crazy.
Latest numbers at 50 thou off full inlet lift are 161 and 67 = 228 /2 = 114
I need it at 104 so thats 10 degrees out. Too far with only 6 degrees available on the JP.
If i move the chain 1 link on the cam sprocket i get 142 and 50 = 192 /2 = 96, ie 18 degrees less makes sense.
At 96 i am 8 degrees out so could get within 2 degrees.
If i slip the chain on the crank sprocket the difference doubles to 36 degrees!
Latest numbers at 50 thou off full inlet lift are 161 and 67 = 228 /2 = 114
I need it at 104 so thats 10 degrees out. Too far with only 6 degrees available on the JP.
If i move the chain 1 link on the cam sprocket i get 142 and 50 = 192 /2 = 96, ie 18 degrees less makes sense.
At 96 i am 8 degrees out so could get within 2 degrees.
If i slip the chain on the crank sprocket the difference doubles to 36 degrees!
The JE posts need some work.
John phoned me and explained that i needed to open the bottom part of the bolt hole to 10.3-10.5mm and 8mm deep to clear any thread on the bolt and unrestrict the oil supply to the rocker gear. It seems i will also have to relieve the gap to allow a shim to fit either side of the rocker.
John phoned me and explained that i needed to open the bottom part of the bolt hole to 10.3-10.5mm and 8mm deep to clear any thread on the bolt and unrestrict the oil supply to the rocker gear. It seems i will also have to relieve the gap to allow a shim to fit either side of the rocker.
phazed said:
I had a spare set of standard rocker gear with different thickness shims so I had 2 sets.
To get the rockers to sit squarely over the valve stems took quite a bit of jiggling about with the spacers to get it spot on!
Another job that takes far longer then you would think.
Why the hell should the base drillings be modified?
Why not correct in the first place!!!!
I got the impression that someone sent out 4 that werent opened up and he realized so called me. He did say if i wasnt confident then he would send me 2 done. As i understand it, its only the front 2 need doing for the oil supply. I think the back 2 restrict the outflow to keep some pressure up in the shaft.To get the rockers to sit squarely over the valve stems took quite a bit of jiggling about with the spacers to get it spot on!
Another job that takes far longer then you would think.
Why the hell should the base drillings be modified?
Why not correct in the first place!!!!
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