Lurk mode off - suspension refurb....

[Nosh]

Quick update - rear done (being a hardened southerner, rain don't stop me!) - you can certainly see the difference between the rear wheels (refurbed) and the fronts!



So, car jacked up this AM and front wheels off to Pristine in Woburn. And looks like I have my work cut out for me....







And finally a shout out to some of the community that has offered help / advice (you know who you are!) - really REALLY appreciated guys!

Nosh

[phazed]

Wow, that certainly needs your magic wand!

[Nosh]

phazed said:

Wow, that certainly needs your magic wand!

You're not wrong Peter....

I hope things have not gone too far - sprayed a shed load of Plus Gas on all bolts last night - will let that work it's magic and ordered some goodies today.....

...just need to start the dis-assembly...which I am not looking forward to.

Nosh

Edited by Nosh on Tuesday 25th August 19:07

Edited by Nosh on Wednesday 26th August 18:19

[portzi]

Nosh said:

phazed said:

Wow, that certainly needs your magic wand!

You're not wrong Peter....

I hope things have not too far gone - sprayed a shed load of Plus Gas on all bolts last night - will let that work it's magic and ordered some goodies today.....

...just need to start the dis-assembly...which I am not looking forward to.

Nosh

Edited by Nosh on Tuesday 25th August 19:07

I am gald your doing it the right way, it not a nice thought but there are alot of cars out there where owners just give the old rusted metal a rub down with a wire brush and slap some paint owner to hide whats lurking underneath, good job there.

[ClassiChimi]

Other than new wishbones, which at least come with bushes, new ball joints rod ends etc etc, as your doing it yourself Nosh you can be replacing the lot for not a lot of money. I also got bits and bobs re powder coated as it's cheap as chips, a new bolt kit will really finish things off and it's a joy putting new bolts in there. Keep up the good work, another Tvr coming back from a dangerous state, goodman

[Nosh]

Today's update....

First off, let me introduce you to a new friend - this tool is superb and dealt with the rusty rounded bolts, no problem. A very useful addition to the growing number of tool-age in the Nosh Shed.



Only the top wishbone and drop link to remove (I cut the brake hoses as I have new braided hoses and a new Cossie brake upgrade to go on.



And the spoils of war today - will be a lot easier to complete the breakdown on the workbench with the vice.



Nosh

[phazed]

If your wishbones are shot, I have a front set from my 99 car that require a blast and paint but are very sound.

Only available as I fitted tubular wishbones.

[Nosh]

phazed said:

If your wishbones are shot, I have a front set from my 99 car that require a blast and paint but are very sound.

Only available as I fitted tubular wishbones.

Thanks Peter, I may take you up on that - lets see what happens after blasting....

Feels like a lot of surface rust - and they feel solid...

Nosh

[Alexdaredevils]

Mine looked and felt solid, until the blasting........

The front lowers where the box section runs across is the bit that goes

[Nosh]

Alexdaredevils said:

Mine looked and felt solid, until the blasting........

The front lowers where the box section runs across is the bit that goes

Alex

I could just order new lowers and sod all the hard work - but I wants to see if they are good

Lets see.... (fingers crossed!)

Nosh

[Alexdaredevils]

I cut mine out and welded a stainless steel tube in place of it

[Nosh]

Another day off work on holiday and another day clambering under the car, getting nicks, cuts and grazes - and a bit of an anti climax, really.....

There - the other git is off!



The wishbones are not in good shape - the metal is thin once you get the surface rust brushed off, as are some of the welds - and I also found a rather worrying crack,....



So, I have decided to buy new front wishbones as I fear the arms will not survive sandblasting - and not turn into sand / dust themselves! It also saves me arsing around with bushes etc....which were a complete git.

Tried the hammerite stuff on the old vice I re-conditioned (which now looks new) to remove rust......and treated myself to the first bit of black nectar of the day...



And the parcel man come - old and new - and the old ones really needed replacing - loose and clunky with perished rubbers as well!



Nosh

[J400GED]

Nosh said:

And the parcel man come - old and new - and the old ones really needed replacing - loose and clunky with perished rubbers as well!



Nosh

Nosh, I could be wrong here but measure and compare the width of the upper ball joint casting at the balljoint end - across the round bit - if it is too wide you won't be able to get the required range of camber adjustment on your front suspension.
Another way to check is to use a rule straight edge along the machined face to measure how far outboard of the outer hole it will go before it contacts the curved part of the casting - if you see what I mean.

Ged

[Nosh]

J400GED said:

Nosh, I could be wrong here but measure and compare the width of the upper ball joint casting at the balljoint end - across the round bit - if it is too wide you won't be able to get the required range of camber adjustment on your front suspension.
Another way to check is to use a rule straight edge along the machined face to measure how far outboard of the outer hole it will go before it contacts the curved part of the casting - if you see what I mean.

Ged

I have been told this by Alex as well - thing is, they look identical measurement wise - I will check again tomorrow; worrying that a TVR parts dealer may be selling something that does not fit.....

Cheers Ged
Nosh

[Alexdaredevils]

Nosh said:

I have been told this by Alex as well - thing is, they look identical measurement wise - I will check again tomorrow; worrying that a TVR parts dealer may be selling something that does not fit.....

Cheers Ged
Nosh

I dont think you have much choice, but the caster spacer that fits on one side can be replaced with 2 smaller ones to go either side to central things up a bit to give it that little bit extra camber

Im going to have to do the same myself or come up with another solution

[Nosh]

Alexdaredevils said:

I dont think you have much choice, but the caster spacer that fits on one side can be replaced with 2 smaller ones to go either side to central things up a bit to give it that little bit extra camber

Im going to have to do the same myself or come up with another solution

Cheers Alex - I have the old shims that came out - I am presuming these will do or are they too thin? There were 1 on each side of the caster, so 4 in total....



Front ARB coming off today for clean up and stone chipping - and will attempt the rusty reflector on the headlight......oh dear...

Nosh

[phazed]

That's strange.

I'm sure that I have just one large spacer that goes on the front of the ball joint.

[Nosh]

phazed said:

That's strange.

I'm sure that I have just one large spacer that goes on the front of the ball joint.

Mine is an early 93 Peter - not sure what to do now as the the head is bigger (and only when you put the straight edge up against it, that you can see I will lose the required range of camber adjustment on my front suspension)...see below:-



The marks in pencil are where the original holes were....

What on earth.....? I am flummoxed now.

Do I just order the SAAB 900 ones HERE and send the others back?

And why is a TVR parts dealer selling something like this that restricts suspension set ups?

Nosh

Edited by Nosh on Friday 28th August 08:29

[phazed]

I got my correct parts from;

http://www.tvr-parts.com

[carsy]

Phil, dont worry just yet.

Looking at your pics, yours is an early car and has the 2 piece upper wishbones as mine did. I replaced with new one piece wishbones and the usual ball joints as per your new ones. I also used two spacers one either side of the balljoint as Alex says. This will help matters, although allegedly not giving the ideal castor. Having said that i know people who have gone equal spacers either side rather than just the one and they couldnt tell any difference.

When i came to put it all back together, i had to pull the top of my wheel out as far as it could go to get correct camber, so dont worry until you try it with all your new stuff, you maybe like me and the fact that the new ball joint wont go into the wishbone as far wont be an issue.