Radiators...talk to me.

Radiators...talk to me.

Author
Discussion

igiveup

Original Poster:

2,875 posts

282 months

Tuesday 28th July 2015
quotequote all
I have a leak on my Alloy rad. Noticed it last Thursday when just moving the car around the drive, was fine the day before.

So as I don't have a pressure tester, I'm thinking I will need to remove it and have a good look, as I can't see or feel anything obvious. Its seems to be from the Bottom hose area, but hose connection is dry to the touch.

Anyway, I have not removed a Radiator since I had a 1985 B reg Astra, around 1993. So i'm after advice/refresh on what steps i need to take to do this.

My Chim is a 1998 400 if it helps at all, but I believe the same rad is used in all models of Chims as well as the Cerbera?

Can someone with knowledge on these things give me a step by step guide on Removal through to putting in a fixed/new rad?

Biggest issue i'm concerned about is what to do with the used coolant. I'll check to see if my local refuse site take it or not. Otherwise I'll ask my local mechanic who looks after our dailies.

I'm no mechanic, but simple things like this are doable. If I can do Disc's and Pads/Fuel lines/Coil/HT leads etc this should be easy enough. But I really want to do this myself, its part of the reason we have these cars isn't it?

Thanks for any help. What I would also like to do when doing this is is put a little Google site together and document all the little things that none mechanics can do at home. I'll put a Wiki page with links to the relevant page. I was hoping the Chimaera pages site would have stuff like that, but seems not, there are a few items though.

Anyway, going off topic, thanks for any help.

fausTVR

1,442 posts

150 months

Tuesday 28th July 2015
quotequote all
I was convinced I had a leaking rad, but I found it was the small pipe running to the overflow tank (offside wing) pissing gently on the rad when hot.

ATG

20,552 posts

272 months

Tuesday 28th July 2015
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Has been years since I hooked my rad out, but it was very easy. Hose clips and a few bolts. I drove to a rad repair place, hooked rad out in their car park, they found leak and soldered it, I shoved rad back in, filled up with coolant and drove off. Think they charged me about a tenner. New coolant cost more than the repair.

igiveup

Original Poster:

2,875 posts

282 months

Tuesday 28th July 2015
quotequote all
fausTVR said:
I was convinced I had a leaking rad, but I found it was the small pipe running to the overflow tank (offside wing) pissing gently on the rad when hot.
That's interesting, there is pipe running under the rad, is that the pipe your talking about? or are you talking about the pipe to the Expansion Tank?

ATG said:
Has been years since I hooked my rad out, but it was very easy. Hose clips and a few bolts. I drove to a rad repair place, hooked rad out in their car park, they found leak and soldered it, I shoved rad back in, filled up with coolant and drove off. Think they charged me about a tenner. New coolant cost more than the repair.
You make it sound so easy lol. But like you say, its just a couple of bolts an straps. Its just the mess of the coolant, then refilling properly! guessing it will not drain the whole 12 litres in the process.

igiveup

Original Poster:

2,875 posts

282 months

Tuesday 28th July 2015
quotequote all
Actually i have just found an awesome site here https://chimrebuild.wordpress.com/radiatorfront-ch...

This has a serious amount of work put into, all credit to the owner of the site, I think this has just saved me. Right job for me this week or weekend!!

Nosh

982 posts

167 months

Tuesday 28th July 2015
quotequote all
igiveup said:
Actually i have just found an awesome site here https://chimrebuild.wordpress.com/radiatorfront-ch...

This has a serious amount of work put into, all credit to the owner of the site, I think this has just saved me. Right job for me this week or weekend!!
A tip - when you remove the rad, take the opportunity to check / clean the earthing point under the rad - a bugger to get to when the rad is in place....

Nosh

igiveup

Original Poster:

2,875 posts

282 months

Tuesday 28th July 2015
quotequote all
Nosh said:
A tip - when you remove the rad, take the opportunity to check / clean the earthing point under the rad - a bugger to get to when the rad is in place....

Nosh
Thanks Nosh will do. That is in the above link as well so will def check it out.

J400GED

1,202 posts

237 months

Wednesday 29th July 2015
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fausTVR said:
I was convinced I had a leaking rad, but I found it was the small pipe running to the overflow tank (offside wing) pissing gently on the rad when hot.
igiveup check this first before ripping your rad out - you'll only be upset when it's still leaks afterwards.

QBee

20,957 posts

144 months

Wednesday 29th July 2015
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Am I the only one who saw the thread title and thought "in that case you should leave off the herbal stuff for a while"? smokin

J400GED

1,202 posts

237 months

Wednesday 29th July 2015
quotequote all
QBee said:
Am I the only one who saw the thread title and thought "in that case you should leave off the herbal stuff for a while"? smokin
laugh

gacksen

680 posts

143 months

Wednesday 29th July 2015
quotequote all
very simple task. have a pre serp layout so plenty of space behind the rad. drain the system unbolt the two hoses
and nuts that keep the rad in place and lift it out. my alloy rad had been leaking on the passenger side bottom.
cleaned ipt up and used some sanding paper to get a good surface and put some jb weld on it. since then no problem
with the small leak but it was realy a minor one. problem had been the party that put the alloy rad in place didnt
use any rubber insulators. alloy is not happy with strong vibrations or bumps. put some decent rubber couplers in
and problem should be fixed.

Bassfiend229hp

5,530 posts

250 months

Wednesday 29th July 2015
quotequote all
J400GED said:
QBee said:
Am I the only one who saw the thread title and thought "in that case you should leave off the herbal stuff for a while"? smokin
laugh
I just presumed he'd been spending too long with Daz...

QBee

20,957 posts

144 months

Wednesday 29th July 2015
quotequote all
Bassfiend229hp said:
J400GED said:
QBee said:
Am I the only one who saw the thread title and thought "in that case you should leave off the herbal stuff for a while"? smokin
laugh
I just presumed he'd been spending too long with Daz...

igiveup

Original Poster:

2,875 posts

282 months

Wednesday 29th July 2015
quotequote all
J400GED said:
igiveup check this first before ripping your rad out - you'll only be upset when it's still leaks afterwards.
hehe

Thanks all, I've still not had the time to have a look yet, but plenty of food for thought so far.

I shall be taking it to AARON Radiators if it needs fixing. Also I have also had advice to ensure when refitting it to ensure it has a certain amount of movement/float so it does not twist as much with the flex of the body and chassis.

Hoofa

3,151 posts

208 months

Wednesday 29th July 2015
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My alloy rad failed this year ! Such a small leak was only detectable using a pressure tester ! Alloy is prone to stress fractures frown

It was a hairline fracture on a weld high up on the rad

bsdnazz

762 posts

253 months

Wednesday 29th July 2015
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I replaced my Chim's rad about a month ago.

It's a pretty easy job. The hardest bit was lifting the rad out after I'd disconnected it as I left the bonnet on and did it on my own. I simply protected the chassis/exchaust with plenty of cardboard and removed the rad in several stages.

I used a deep 13mm socket for the two top bolts and removed the expansion tank first.

The 6mmm bolts holding the fan cowls to the radiator were pretty rusted and I replaced them with new bolts which I had to cut down.

All in all, a pretty simple job.

dazee

314 posts

124 months

Thursday 30th July 2015
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What are the additional steps needed if you have a car with aircon?

igiveup

Original Poster:

2,875 posts

282 months

Thursday 30th July 2015
quotequote all
OK, i've booked it into my mechanics for a pressure test. None TVR Specialist but its just a pressure test.

Does anyone know what PSI / Bar should be pumped up to? I can't see anything on the Expansion tank blue cap.

igiveup

Original Poster:

2,875 posts

282 months

Friday 31st July 2015
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hehe

Mr Haribo

318 posts

189 months

Friday 31st July 2015
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I checked my rad last week and tested to 1.5 bar as advised by a rad company