Rear ARB removal and handling.
Discussion
I attended a sprint at Curborough yesterday and thought I would experiment with the handling.
Apparently the guys that compete in the TVOCC sprints and Hillclimbs all run without the rear ARB.
I got my best time of the day with the ARB fitted, A 1.28.
I then removed the a ARB and tried a few more runs.
The handling was really strange, it was really lively with much less control.
Whereas the handling was very predictable and flat now it was a little like a bucking bronco.
You could get used to it after a while but it was undesirable. The car was very unsettled and became unstable the faster I went.
It would have felt really dangerous during high speed bends on a TD.
I actually managed a 1.28.3 on my fourth run but the car was all over the place and needed total concentration.
To sum up, if you have one fitted, leave it fitted!
Apparently the guys that compete in the TVOCC sprints and Hillclimbs all run without the rear ARB.
I got my best time of the day with the ARB fitted, A 1.28.
I then removed the a ARB and tried a few more runs.
The handling was really strange, it was really lively with much less control.
Whereas the handling was very predictable and flat now it was a little like a bucking bronco.
You could get used to it after a while but it was undesirable. The car was very unsettled and became unstable the faster I went.
It would have felt really dangerous during high speed bends on a TD.
I actually managed a 1.28.3 on my fourth run but the car was all over the place and needed total concentration.
To sum up, if you have one fitted, leave it fitted!
Completely opposite to my experience... lack of feel and feedback with; completely transformed and controllable without. It has sat in the corner of the workshop since about 2003 and will stay there until I weigh it in or flog it!
Prepared to concede a stiffer unit more robustly connected to the wishbones might be different but as OEM, absolute waste of space.
Prepared to concede a stiffer unit more robustly connected to the wishbones might be different but as OEM, absolute waste of space.
The formula is one you known to footy fans the world over
Cross sectional Area = Pie arr squared.
So an 18mm ARB, area = 81 square Pie millimeters
22mm ARB area = 121 square Pie millimeters, ie 50% ANAD more.
25mm ARB area = 156 square Pie millimeters , ie almost 100% ANAD more than an 18mm one and 35% ANAD more than a 22 mm one.
So, who ate all the pies?
Cross sectional Area = Pie arr squared.
So an 18mm ARB, area = 81 square Pie millimeters
22mm ARB area = 121 square Pie millimeters, ie 50% ANAD more.
25mm ARB area = 156 square Pie millimeters , ie almost 100% ANAD more than an 18mm one and 35% ANAD more than a 22 mm one.
So, who ate all the pies?
That was a very good save,,, that's the issue with hard springs and only one damper control,,, when it loads up like in a deep angle slide when the weight transfers over to the other side the spring de compression chucks you into a tank slapper,
That's why I've taken a bit of a chance maybe but I've ordered some Protech two way Peter. I'm never going to have my car set up as aggressive as yours although I found your car to be very comfortable and capable over the bumps etc, the power from your car, it's a different league;)
I've ordered a very low spring rate, see how they go, if it doesn't work go harder but for the money it's not too expensive to up the springs etc.
the lower rate spring ( worried about bottoming the rear ) but I'm hoping it will allow a better use of the valving and ultimate control of the car for every day use.
If I was to go harder spring later the valving would still be controlling rebound at a rate I choose.
It's got to be worth experimenting with.
That's why I've taken a bit of a chance maybe but I've ordered some Protech two way Peter. I'm never going to have my car set up as aggressive as yours although I found your car to be very comfortable and capable over the bumps etc, the power from your car, it's a different league;)
I've ordered a very low spring rate, see how they go, if it doesn't work go harder but for the money it's not too expensive to up the springs etc.
the lower rate spring ( worried about bottoming the rear ) but I'm hoping it will allow a better use of the valving and ultimate control of the car for every day use.
If I was to go harder spring later the valving would still be controlling rebound at a rate I choose.
It's got to be worth experimenting with.
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