Changing engine mounts.....Is it safe....

[Nosh]

...to do this whilst the front of the car is on axle stands - with no wheels (or suspension parts) currently on the car?

I know they need changing and I have 2 new ones waiting to go in - and at the moment, they are very accessible!

Thoughts?

Nosh

[bobfather]

Yes, perfectly safe and made easier by you having no wishbones to get in your way. I would suggest you stick a pair of wheels undrr the chassis as 'belt & braces'

[ClassiChimi]

If the rear wheels are on the ground you should be safe, I used a jack to gently lift engine to take pressure off the bolts etc, once their loose jack it up a high as you can to give more room to wiggle old ones out. When you have replaced engine mounts your looking for a good 10mm clearance from chassis to exhaust manifolds either side. If it's a bit low loosen,jack engine up a tad then re tighten, bobs your uncle,

[Barreti]

Put a piece of wood under the sump to spread the load and jack up the engine gently there.

Undo the mount off the chassis and take the mount and the bracket off together, it makes it much easier.
Take the opportunity to paint the bracket while it's off.

[jojackson4]

Go for it no problem

[bobfather]

Don't put a piece of wood under the sump, the sump gasket will compress and you'll be dealing with an oil leak next. Put a piece of wood under the crank pully and lift from there. You'll need to adjust it up and down as you locate the new mounts and centralise the block. Best measuring point is manifolds to chassis rail

[Sardonicus]

bobfather said:

Don't put a piece of wood under the sump, the sump gasket will compress and you'll be dealing with an oil leak next. Put a piece of wood under the crank pully and lift from there. You'll need to adjust it up and down as you locate the new mounts and centralise the block. Best measuring point is manifolds to chassis rail

This ^ centralizing the engine in the cradle mounting position is the important bit before you finally tighten those nuts on the rubber mounts you are trying to achieve a roughly equal gap between manifold cat area and chassis area Phil it's the tightest area of man to frame and can be easily jiggled reaching up with both arms after lowering the jack believe it or not.

[Nosh]

Thanks for the replies guys - once the rain abates, I will get me arse out there.....

Nosh

[Barreti]

bobfather said:

Don't put a piece of wood under the sump, the sump gasket will compress and you'll be dealing with an oil leak next.

I've read rubbish about not lifting under the sump, but mainly because of the risk of crushing it which is rubbish IMHO. I didn't know that about the seal though bobfather. Duly noted and thanks for the tip.

[QBee]

Nosh, stating the blindingly obvious, do make sure the handbrake is on and the car in gear before you jack the car up and start wiggling

[Nosh]

Thanks Anthony for your advice - however, handbrake is on - blocks wedged in front of the rear wheels and the front of the chassis already on axle stands!

So - managed to do one side (offside) - and glad I did as this is what I removed...



Anyways, one of the bolts that goes thru the chassis was an absolute pig to undo - and no real surprise that when I finally got the nut off, the bolt (and the nut, I suppose) had been cross threaded - so, new one of both required.

I was pretty worried about this job, and was very cautious - however, it was relatively easy - and only hampered by the cross threaded nut and bolt and my 17mm ratchet ring spanner breaking on me....

Nosh

[ClassiChimi]

In our confined engine bay the mounts take much more heat than when used on Land Rover's
It's not that unusual to see them in a bad way.
Your doing a good job there Nosh.

You seem to know what your doing Nosh, that engine mount,, it has the spacer ( white ) still stuck to old mounting.
Remember what side it came off and replace as like,
It centres the engine as the chassis is often out of alignment when cars were built so important to put back in place.
Alun

Edited by ClassiChimi on Sunday 30th August 20:48

[Nosh]

Sardonicus said:

..........you are trying to achieve a roughly equal gap between manifold cat area and chassis area Phil it's the tightest area of man to frame and can be easily jiggled reaching up with both arms after lowering the jack believe it or not.

Simon - I think I got it even both sides - and you are right - there is just enough to get the top of my finger tip in there (both sides).

Cheers
Nosh

[Sardonicus]

Nosh said:

Simon - I think I got it even both sides - and you are right - there is just enough to get the top of my finger tip in there (both sides).

Cheers
Nosh

Thats the knack Phil