Outdoor Car Cover
Discussion
In principle, yes. The Chim one is cut to fit the car, with front and rear flaps to tuck inside the bonnet and boot, as well as the wing mirror straps. Heavy, so stays put. Not cheap, but worth it. And they last for ever, and won't damage your paint.
Edited by QBee on Friday 2nd October 21:37
Squiggs said:
Hmmmmm - car covers ....... they can scratch the paint work if they flap about in the wind and if they're tight enough not to flap and moisture gets trapped between the bodywork and cover it can cause the paintwork to bloom.
This 
best bet is to leave it uncovered or fit a cover just on the roof. Any moisture under the cover will blister the paint. I think everyone above has nailed it. The half cover is a good bet, along with making sure all the silicone sealed bits under the bonnet are water tight, the door seals aren't leaking and its water tight around the fuel filler neck.
These cars aren't hard to keep water tight, just an afternoon re-sealing is all that's required.
I must have sealed hundreds of them over a 4 year period, everything that lived on the forecourt never let in water. I'm happy to offer advice if needed.
These cars aren't hard to keep water tight, just an afternoon re-sealing is all that's required.
I must have sealed hundreds of them over a 4 year period, everything that lived on the forecourt never let in water. I'm happy to offer advice if needed.
Thanks for the input everyone.
What might be the best product to seal this area?
shake n bake said:
I think everyone above has nailed it. The half cover is a good bet, along with making sure all the silicone sealed bits under the bonnet are water tight, the door seals aren't leaking and its water tight around the fuel filler neck.
These cars aren't hard to keep water tight, just an afternoon re-sealing is all that's required.
I must have sealed hundreds of them over a 4 year period, everything that lived on the forecourt never let in water. I'm happy to offer advice if needed.
This is my problem. Water is getting under the Velcro where the roof meets the body. There is a small gap between the tops of the windows and the rubber seal on the roof section which may be letting in a small bit. However, the worst area is just under the bonnet below the windscreen. There is a sealant there which has cracked and letting water in to the footwell.These cars aren't hard to keep water tight, just an afternoon re-sealing is all that's required.
I must have sealed hundreds of them over a 4 year period, everything that lived on the forecourt never let in water. I'm happy to offer advice if needed.
What might be the best product to seal this area?
Ok in order, the Hood section has 3 different bits to take care of. There should be a strip of Velcro stuck to the car on the outer edge, also on the inside of the car there is are rectangle section of Velcro. It's only secured by super glue so if it's not secure then get the glue out and be careful not to leave a run of glue down the quarter panel!
Next, is all the stitching intact around the Velcro intact? If not you have two options, find a local trimmer and get them to repair it, or if you have a neat enough eye for detail, buy some canvas needles off eBay and some thick-ish gauge Cotton and get busy with a set of plyers and prepare to get sore fingers for a few days!
Lastly, lift back the hood at the bottom section of the car, are there two rubber ear type things in place?
I will try and find a picture of what I mean, but my own car is thousands of miles from where I am at present!
As for under the bonnet sealing you will need 1 or two tubes of black silicone sealer (b&q will sell it, you can get specific automotive sealer but it comes in smaller tubes and is 3 times the price, for what it's doing here it doesn't need the specific properties that the car one gives) some use tiger seal or other super strong sealers, I didn't as I feel you can work with silicone sealer a bit more.
A Stanley knife with a few new blades, some masking tape, plenty of rags, a bit of white spirit and an afternoon in the dry.
You need to cut away all of the old silicone sealer around the brake master cylinder ,the clutch fluid inspection panel, around the pipes that go down through the wing, and usually there is a line of sealer along the top of the silver heat reflector mat.
Stating the obvious I know but be careful, don't go puncturing you, the car or the tubes the run through the body!
If it's old and brittle it'll usually just pull off in 1 go with a set of long nose pliers.
Once everything is free of old silicone, clean and dry then get to it, you will use a lot around the brake master cylinder as the hole is big and there's not a lot for the silicone to adhere to.
Tape around the edges but be sure to leave enough body panel for the silicone to stick too. I've seen plenty of horrific looking jobs where the silicone is stacked a few cms high, it doesn't need to be, just raised slightly above the body panel is fine.
The great thing with silicone is it is workable for a bit before it starts to set, put a bit of spit on your finger and it'll allow you to move it around and create a nice clean finish without making a mess of your hand.
Once I was happy the silicone was around the cylinder I take the tape off whilst the silicone is wet and then did the above step, you can make sure you have a complete seal and get a decent finish at the same time.
Do this around all the tubes, grommets and anything else you can see that goes through the car and it'll be water tight.
As for the gap around the Windows, make sure the roof panel is on completely square, then check your gaps. If there is still a gap then you can adjust the window height using the screw adjuster about halfway along the door.
Wind the window down, the move the bristles on the weather strip thing out the way and turn the adjuster a couple of turns, if the window has gone further down then repeat the above step but turn the adjuster the other way!
You'll need a flat bladed screwdriver for this job, and either a lovely assistant to pull the door card back slightly to allow better access or something to wedge between the door and door card.
Don't over do it or you'll find the window will rattle on the alloy door frame at the top.
It sounds way more complicated than it is, you can pay a Tvr garage to do it for you but will they care as much as you to make sure it's water tight? It's a myth that they leak, they will do if they're poorly maintained but a bit of tlc and it'll be fine.
Next, is all the stitching intact around the Velcro intact? If not you have two options, find a local trimmer and get them to repair it, or if you have a neat enough eye for detail, buy some canvas needles off eBay and some thick-ish gauge Cotton and get busy with a set of plyers and prepare to get sore fingers for a few days!
Lastly, lift back the hood at the bottom section of the car, are there two rubber ear type things in place?
I will try and find a picture of what I mean, but my own car is thousands of miles from where I am at present!
As for under the bonnet sealing you will need 1 or two tubes of black silicone sealer (b&q will sell it, you can get specific automotive sealer but it comes in smaller tubes and is 3 times the price, for what it's doing here it doesn't need the specific properties that the car one gives) some use tiger seal or other super strong sealers, I didn't as I feel you can work with silicone sealer a bit more.
A Stanley knife with a few new blades, some masking tape, plenty of rags, a bit of white spirit and an afternoon in the dry.
You need to cut away all of the old silicone sealer around the brake master cylinder ,the clutch fluid inspection panel, around the pipes that go down through the wing, and usually there is a line of sealer along the top of the silver heat reflector mat.
Stating the obvious I know but be careful, don't go puncturing you, the car or the tubes the run through the body!
If it's old and brittle it'll usually just pull off in 1 go with a set of long nose pliers.
Once everything is free of old silicone, clean and dry then get to it, you will use a lot around the brake master cylinder as the hole is big and there's not a lot for the silicone to adhere to.
Tape around the edges but be sure to leave enough body panel for the silicone to stick too. I've seen plenty of horrific looking jobs where the silicone is stacked a few cms high, it doesn't need to be, just raised slightly above the body panel is fine.
The great thing with silicone is it is workable for a bit before it starts to set, put a bit of spit on your finger and it'll allow you to move it around and create a nice clean finish without making a mess of your hand.
Once I was happy the silicone was around the cylinder I take the tape off whilst the silicone is wet and then did the above step, you can make sure you have a complete seal and get a decent finish at the same time.
Do this around all the tubes, grommets and anything else you can see that goes through the car and it'll be water tight.
As for the gap around the Windows, make sure the roof panel is on completely square, then check your gaps. If there is still a gap then you can adjust the window height using the screw adjuster about halfway along the door.
Wind the window down, the move the bristles on the weather strip thing out the way and turn the adjuster a couple of turns, if the window has gone further down then repeat the above step but turn the adjuster the other way!
You'll need a flat bladed screwdriver for this job, and either a lovely assistant to pull the door card back slightly to allow better access or something to wedge between the door and door card.
Don't over do it or you'll find the window will rattle on the alloy door frame at the top.
It sounds way more complicated than it is, you can pay a Tvr garage to do it for you but will they care as much as you to make sure it's water tight? It's a myth that they leak, they will do if they're poorly maintained but a bit of tlc and it'll be fine.
Edited by shake n bake on Sunday 4th October 06:49
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Took me a while but I found the topic about the rubber flap things. These help a lot too.
Took me a while but I found the topic about the rubber flap things. These help a lot too.
Thanks for the detailed explanation.. I find that very helpful. I will have to take a look to see if the 'elephant ears' are in place but from memory they aren't!
Interesting about the window adjuster.. I didn't know that.. There's a flat head screw adjuster just on the inside side of the door.. Again, I must take a look!
Thanks.
A framed cover is probably the best solution as you say Mark.. I'll keep an eye out
Interesting about the window adjuster.. I didn't know that.. There's a flat head screw adjuster just on the inside side of the door.. Again, I must take a look!
Thanks.
A framed cover is probably the best solution as you say Mark.. I'll keep an eye out
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