Decision to make
Poll: Decision to make
Total Members Polled: 32
Discussion
ChimpOnGas said:
ChilliWhizz said:
Bassfiend229hp said:
less chance of it spunking its guts
I love this technical terminology stuff, Phil in particular is a master of it 
And I've noticed over the years that worryingly his words usually involve something sperm related
This being one of my particular favorites...
Bassfiend said:
Graham said:
i want this one
2 nice cold air feeds.
Oh God that looks good ... I think a little bit of sex-wee came out!!!!2 nice cold air feeds.
...it was known by the TVR crowd here at the time as the "Sperm for toys program".
Thankfully I found a cheaper way to TVR ownership.
Phil
500 is an easy place to start with similar torques. You can keep the valvetrain stock hydraulic for this. Build the bottom end strong and it'll be fine. If you decide to aim towards 700 plus you'll need more boost and a pukka custom camshaft.
ETA. the reason I suggested an easy peasy 500 is because I've had that from a 12v 2.9 ford cologne engine and we know what dogs they are compared to a beautiful RV8 of 5 litres. 500 hp would be a nice base line to start tuning from and 800 would be realistic once settled I reckon
ETA. the reason I suggested an easy peasy 500 is because I've had that from a 12v 2.9 ford cologne engine and we know what dogs they are compared to a beautiful RV8 of 5 litres. 500 hp would be a nice base line to start tuning from and 800 would be realistic once settled I reckon
Edited by Boosted LS1 on Thursday 15th October 21:57
Looking forward to this I think a much better idea rather than nitrous again. You can have a lot more fail safes now.
Does anyone do a steel crank for the Rover V8 ??
I would bullet proof the bottom end as much as possible and get the best heads on, because although you force in it you will still reach a restriction point as I did, and I think you will always be chasing more and more until you run 1's
500bhp for the road and 700 for the track on the proper MT tyres
Wildcat heads, Forged bottom end and Turbo - GO BIG!! (its easy to spend other peoples money lol)
Does anyone do a steel crank for the Rover V8 ??
I would bullet proof the bottom end as much as possible and get the best heads on, because although you force in it you will still reach a restriction point as I did, and I think you will always be chasing more and more until you run 1's
500bhp for the road and 700 for the track on the proper MT tyres
Wildcat heads, Forged bottom end and Turbo - GO BIG!!
(its easy to spend other peoples money lol)neal1980 said:
Looking forward to this I think a much better idea rather than nitrous again. You can have a lot more fail safes now.
Does anyone do a steel crank for the Rover V8 ??
I would bullet proof the bottom end as much as possible and get the best heads on, because although you force in it you will still reach a restriction point as I did, and I think you will always be chasing more and more until you run 1's
500bhp for the road and 700 for the track on the proper MT tyres
Wildcat heads, Forged bottom end and Turbo - GO BIG!! (its easy to spend other peoples money lol)
Ive been offered a second hand but minimum use Garret GT4094R. Big numbers are tempting but Eann wastalking quite a bit of extra work to make it fit. At least if i stick with the GT35 we know the fit should be relatively quick and simple and will work well straight away.Does anyone do a steel crank for the Rover V8 ??
I would bullet proof the bottom end as much as possible and get the best heads on, because although you force in it you will still reach a restriction point as I did, and I think you will always be chasing more and more until you run 1's
500bhp for the road and 700 for the track on the proper MT tyres
Wildcat heads, Forged bottom end and Turbo - GO BIG!!
(its easy to spend other peoples money lol)Lets be realistic (i know its something not easy for some of us is it). The car will be stretched in all departments and i think 9's and 200 top end is awesome enough. I would want to build a dedicated drag slag at some point. BIG BIG power and a multilink 9" out back. Big wheelies and 8's. Any sheddy broken Cerberas about?
phazed said:
I've just cast/sold 2 more of those and may have found a place to machine them at a sensible price. Fingers crossed 
Cheapo option is a copy GT3582 that comes from the states, has chinese parts but is built to a good standard.
Then we thought a genuine GTX3582R which ticks a lot of boxes but is pricey.
Ive been offered a GT4094R that has been used for a very short time on a scooby. We are not sure on this one and would take extra work to make fit with Eanns kit.
Turbo dynamics reckon the GT3582 is too small, agree the GTX is a good choice but recommended a Borg Warner EFR8374 at a nicely discounted price.
Maybe i need to start another poll.
Then we thought a genuine GTX3582R which ticks a lot of boxes but is pricey.
Ive been offered a GT4094R that has been used for a very short time on a scooby. We are not sure on this one and would take extra work to make fit with Eanns kit.
Turbo dynamics reckon the GT3582 is too small, agree the GTX is a good choice but recommended a Borg Warner EFR8374 at a nicely discounted price.
Maybe i need to start another poll.
DangerousDerek said:
Stuff.
Choose your bhp requirements. Then your air flow requirements and finally your compressor requirements. You'll read lots of books with differing formulas but keep it simple and whatever you choose should work so long as it's not small lol. Compressor charts aren't hard to understand esp if you just want a huge punch for racing,Gassing Station | Chimaera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff