Dies on initial start ups

[CHIMV8]

jojackson4 said:

Come and plug it in to RG you may have a silly fault

Me or the car,you been talking to my wife

[jojackson4]

Where's your diagnostic socket eek
The cars I can find

[CHIMV8]

Away sunning myself this week,will call round next week

[jojackson4]

Give me a ring

[CHIMV8]

Update

Came back off hols this week,and thought lets get into this issue.

Unplugged and cleaned/reconnected all electrical parts...no joy

Changed AFM with 2 others again...no joy

Cleaned steeper motor again ..no joy

Removed 90 induction bend,turned throttle and cleaned all round flapper and the surrounding sealing edges on plenum...bingo!!

Turned ignition,and she started on a smooth constant idle.

Issue.....she now idles at approx 1100-1200 revs constantly

Any ideas,tried turning the idle basse screw to reduce but no joy

Flattened the bypass pipe, and let go as Mr Heath states in the bible but no joy

Help if any knowledge out there for further ideas

[Colin RedGriff]

Now it's idling okay does it still run okay in normal driving?

Might be worth unplugging the ECU to clear out any stored values from when you were having idle problems

[MPoxon]

CHIMV8 said:

Issue.....she now idles at approx 1100-1200 revs constantly

Any ideas,tried turning the idle basse screw to reduce but no joy

Flattened the bypass pipe, and let go as Mr Heath states in the bible but no joy

Help if any knowledge out there for further ideas

This kit might solve your revving issue but I still think there is either a root cause to these issues or you need a remap due to the change of cam profile.

http://www.sc-power.co.uk/pages/sc-power-stepper-r...

[CHIMV8]

Colin RedGriff said:

Now it's idling okay does it still run okay in normal driving?

Might be worth unplugging the ECU to clear out any stored values from when you were having idle problems

Not had chance to run yet,will try the ECU disconnection

Thanks

[CHIMV8]

MPoxon said:

CHIMV8 said:

Issue.....she now idles at approx 1100-1200 revs constantly

Any ideas,tried turning the idle basse screw to reduce but no joy

Flattened the bypass pipe, and let go as Mr Heath states in the bible but no joy

Help if any knowledge out there for further ideas

This kit might solve your revving issue but I still think there is either a root cause to these issues or you need a remap due to the change of cam profile.

http://www.sc-power.co.uk/pages/sc-power-stepper-r...

Matt
Just trying all the tick off basics,to short term solve before winter,as stated previous she is going to Jools in New Year anyway...but as usual fingers crossed on next run out

[Alexdaredevils]

Fuel pipes correct way round?

Fuel pressure been checked?

[rev-erend]

MPoxon said:

CHIMV8 said:

Issue.....she now idles at approx 1100-1200 revs constantly

Any ideas,tried turning the idle basse screw to reduce but no joy

Flattened the bypass pipe, and let go as Mr Heath states in the bible but no joy

Help if any knowledge out there for further ideas

This kit might solve your revving issue but I still think there is either a root cause to these issues or you need a remap due to the change of cam profile.

http://www.sc-power.co.uk/pages/sc-power-stepper-r...

It's a nice idea.

Years ago Jules suggested blocking the pipe and drilling an 8mm hole to only allow a smaller amount of air through.

[CHIMV8]

CHIMV8 said:

Colin RedGriff said:

Now it's idling okay does it still run okay in normal driving?

Might be worth unplugging the ECU to clear out any stored values from when you were having idle problems

Not had chance to run yet,will try the ECU disconnection

Thanks

Disconnected and reconnected the ECU,took her for a drive and bingo,she idles at 800 without missing a beat

Thanks for all your comments and suggestions,and another learning curve in understanding the workings of a TVR

[QBee]

So pleasing when it all comes together and works like it was intended.

I am well pleased for you - I had months of idling problems a way back, and it is so nice when it all clears up and you can stop making excuses for the car to yourself and others.

[CHIMV8]

QBee said:

So pleasing when it all comes together and works like it was intended.

I am well pleased for you - I had months of idling problems a way back, and it is so nice when it all clears up and you can stop making excuses for the car to yourself and others.

Thanks Anthony.worse bit of all this issue, is when you are waiting at lights for instance, and she keeps cutting out,and you know people are looking and thinking, its a TVR what do you expect...

But it is great to have her as she should be,as he reaches and touches a piece of wood

[CHIMV8]

UPDATE
The piece of wood i touched was not large enough

She was behaving a bit weird again on last run out,but thought it was the old paranoia again.

Anyway,took her out yesterday,and she kept stalling on start up again,and felt underpowered when eventually underway,gave her a good run before i pulled over to check dizzy and leads connection,all seemed pushed and in place.

Run again,no joy,so pulled over and disconnected/reconnected ECU,no joy

Worse thing of all i had the wife in the car,so chucked her out,and that didn't make a difference,but the silence was great

Couldnt understand,it seemed like a cylinder was down but all seemed connected......until

Lifted the bonnet again(stopped first obviously!!) and checked the leads were solid against the adapters,which they were,but while moving my hand between each plug i caught a lead slightly and it lifted off,strange,the connection looked odd compared to what i thought it should.

What dawned on me was the connection,whatever type was unstable and pointed to the running issues.

The sleeve on the HT lead was seating correctly over the extender shroud, and the metal connector in the lead was basically resting on the small metal part on the extender

Checked the rest on the plug/extender connections,and another 2 were the same........the top of the extenders had snapped all in the same spot,and left the metal in 2 parts with in the HT lead sleeve...so when they were in the connected position the surfaces were partially together...YOU CAN SEE THE 2 METAL SURFACES ON THE 1ST EXTENDER IN PIC

Since i have had her back,i have never pulled at the lead tops before only pushed to check secure,so god knows what caused this



You may think this should have been obvious,but the issue was never a constant,and the mating of the 2 pieces with in the rubber shroud seemed to hold together for some weird reason,until yesterday, when it was obvious there was more wrong than usual.

I have taken some advise from Peter J,(take away 2 connection points from the system) taken out the extenders,and connected the HT Leads direct to the plug heads,ensuring the leads are secured back from the manifolds,heat shield HT lead socks on order.

Needless to say even on a quick run out in the rain, she is a different car........where's that piece of wood again

For the record these werent cheap china products,they were from Germany.....

Edited by CHIMV8 on Wednesday 30th December 13:41

[ChimpOnGas]

CHIMV8 said:

The one system that causes running issues on these cars more anything else is the ignition, and the biggest criminals in a mix of ignition components are the dreadful spark plug extenders.

Used in a bid to solve the ends of the HT lead burning on the TVR exhaust manifolds they are very prone to failure as the OP and many others before him have discovered.

My advise is to delete the extenders, it is well worth investing some time and money to make a proper job of protecting the ends on the HT leads without using the extenders.

Here's what I did to achieve this goal and my system has proved itself to be 100% effective over thousands of miles.

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=143...

So it is possible to ditch the dreadful extenders without risking the HT leads being damaged on the hot exhaust manifolds, while at the same time improving ht lead quality.

I used and am still using MSD Super Conductors which I've found to be truly excellent quality, combine with extended electrode plugs or better still Iridium tipped ones and you'll be making one of the best improvements to your Chimaera's ignition short of going to a fully mappable wasted spark system using EDIS type coil packs.

[QBee]

As i have mentioned elsewhere, my kindly TVR expert changed all my extenders last march at the service.....and replaced them with brand new ones, original Beru German equipment, sourced from a well known TVR parts supplier.

I had misfires for about three months, which turned out to be two extenders that had failed electrically, and two where the extender didn't clip onto the plug and stay on. Since then I had a misfire on my way to London in November, which turned out to be TWO more electrically failed extenders.

I have now removed all the extenders and put fibre glass woven socks over the leads instead. I got mine from Banggood.com for about £10 in total. Only downside was that they took about 18 days to arrive from Hong Kong. They are visually identical to the ones that TVR Power use, as i saw some on a friend's car only yesterday. They seem fine on my car. Cannot be more certain, as I have only had them on the car for about 400 miles so far. I have made sure I clipped the leads tight so that nothing touches the exhaust manifolds.

http://www.banggood.com/Black-Heat-Protector-Spark...

PS, you need to be running resistive spark plugs or leads, as one of the additional functions of the extenders, if I understand it correctly, was to put a resistive element into the HT system, so as to allow the car to run properly. Dave will know chapter and verse on this, if he hasn't already posted on it. I have resistive plugs on my car, the Iridium 6s Dave recommended. BPR6EIX IIRC.

Edited by QBee on Wednesday 30th December 15:03

[blitzracing]

You just need some resistance in the HT circuit- normally a carbon cored OEM plug leads is enough- so you dont need extra unless you are running low resistance leads like Magnecores, so if you have an option for non resistive shrouds Id go for that.

[FairfieldSteve]

Thank you for the info gents, I'm going to bin my extenders and have ordered some of the socks that QBee linked to. I'm having a few funny issues with running at the moment, which I'm hoping this will solve.

I actually had an issue the other day where an extender had worked loose, rotated and fried a lead against the manifold.

[CHIMV8]

We're all in it together