Alternative spark plug brand to NGK7ECS
Discussion
jazzdude said:
I cant get the NGK7ECS out here as no one carries stock of this type of plug.
Before I resort to buying them online with shipping costs, is there an alternative plug in another brand that also works well in our cars?
NGK make the best plugs.Before I resort to buying them online with shipping costs, is there an alternative plug in another brand that also works well in our cars?
My car runs a lot better on ngk bpr6eix. Hotter plug, less prone to fouling, and being iridium they last for 60,000 miles, not 6,000, so while they are more expensive, you only buy them once and only pay the shipping costs once.
You just need to make sure you tell the servicing garage not to change them.
I had a quick read on these ngk bpr6eix plugs and a few on here are singing their praises. But it seems that on top of the cost of the plugs you also need heat shielding and little boots too, as you dont need the extenders, or am I misunderstanding this.
This then more or less doubles the cost of these plugs and I wonder if they are indeed that much worth the extra cost over the normal type.
However, there are discussions of some using NGK's BPR6ES or BPR7ES. If these are easy to find here should I just use these?
This then more or less doubles the cost of these plugs and I wonder if they are indeed that much worth the extra cost over the normal type.
However, there are discussions of some using NGK's BPR6ES or BPR7ES. If these are easy to find here should I just use these?
FlipFlopGriff said:
cheers for that link.......just got a set jazzdude said:
I had a quick read on these ngk bpr6eix plugs and a few on here are singing their praises. But it seems that on top of the cost of the plugs you also need heat shielding and little boots too, as you dont need the extenders, or am I misunderstanding this.
This then more or less doubles the cost of these plugs and I wonder if they are indeed that much worth the extra cost over the normal type.
However, there are discussions of some using NGK's BPR6ES or BPR7ES. If these are easy to find here should I just use these?
You have misunderstood. Let me explain, in 3 yards less than Chimpongas would.This then more or less doubles the cost of these plugs and I wonder if they are indeed that much worth the extra cost over the normal type.
However, there are discussions of some using NGK's BPR6ES or BPR7ES. If these are easy to find here should I just use these?
All cars of this age need something resistive in the ignition, or the radio crackles horribly and the ECU won't work properly.
TVR decided to kill two birds with one stone and fit resistive plug extenders, which also help to keep the plug leads off the hot engine. Then they were able to fit non-resistive plugs. But they could have fitted resistive plugs. Both would work..
Frankly, the new plug extenders sold now are a misfire waiting to happen. Despite saying they are German, and costing almost £100 a set, they are Chinese rubbish and break. Mine were replaced in March, three broke almost immediately, two in June, and two more last weekend. Mine are coming off and going back to the supplier. As I have resistive plugs (the "R" in BPR6IEX), I don't need the extenders for their resistive qualities, and don't need them for their misfires either.
I have gone for the "6" plugs in place of the "7"s because IMHO the 7s run too cool and have too protected an electrode, so they foul up easily and cause poor running. The 6s spark that bit hotter and run better. Lexus fit iridium plugs in their super smooth running LS saloons, and change them every 60,000 miles. Not only do you get more miles out of them, but you get a much better and more even spark for far longer.
Finally, "hotter" plugs just means the spark is hotter, not that they generate more heat externally. The extenders or socks, your choice, are merely there to keep the plug leads off the hot engine and stop them melting.
Any questions?
PS
I will be buying a set of socks when I ditch the last of my extenders.
If you have good old original extenders, by all means keep using them, you don't have to ditch them if you change the plugs. If you use resistive plugs, you can ditch the extenders if you want to.
If you don't, you can't.
I will be buying a set of socks when I ditch the last of my extenders.
If you have good old original extenders, by all means keep using them, you don't have to ditch them if you change the plugs. If you use resistive plugs, you can ditch the extenders if you want to.
If you don't, you can't.
jazzdude said:
Just to be clear, if I use a spark plug with a resistor I can still use the extenders or do I have to remove them and put boots?
Yes, you can use extenders with resistive plugs.Plugs with an "R" in the jumble of letters.
It's just a benefit of resistive plugs that you can use boos instead if you are pissed off to the knickers with failing extenders.
QBee said:
You have misunderstood. Let me explain, in 3 yards less than Chimpongas would.
All cars of this age need something resistive in the ignition, or the radio crackles horribly and the ECU won't work properly.
TVR decided to kill two birds with one stone and fit resistive plug extenders, which also help to keep the plug leads off the hot engine. Then they were able to fit non-resistive plugs. But they could have fitted resistive plugs. Both would work..
Frankly, the new plug extenders sold now are a misfire waiting to happen. Despite saying they are German, and costing almost £100 a set, they are Chinese rubbish and break. Mine were replaced in March, three broke almost immediately, two in June, and two more last weekend. Mine are coming off and going back to the supplier. As I have resistive plugs (the "R" in BPR6IEX), I don't need the extenders for their resistive qualities, and don't need them for their misfires either.
I have gone for the "6" plugs in place of the "7"s because IMHO the 7s run too cool and have too protected an electrode, so they foul up easily and cause poor running. The 6s spark that bit hotter and run better. Lexus fit iridium plugs in their super smooth running LS saloons, and change them every 60,000 miles. Not only do you get more miles out of them, but you get a much better and more even spark for far longer.
Finally, "hotter" plugs just means the spark is hotter, not that they generate more heat externally. The extenders or socks, your choice, are merely there to keep the plug leads off the hot engine and stop them melting.
Any questions?
That's why I use BPR6ESAll cars of this age need something resistive in the ignition, or the radio crackles horribly and the ECU won't work properly.
TVR decided to kill two birds with one stone and fit resistive plug extenders, which also help to keep the plug leads off the hot engine. Then they were able to fit non-resistive plugs. But they could have fitted resistive plugs. Both would work..
Frankly, the new plug extenders sold now are a misfire waiting to happen. Despite saying they are German, and costing almost £100 a set, they are Chinese rubbish and break. Mine were replaced in March, three broke almost immediately, two in June, and two more last weekend. Mine are coming off and going back to the supplier. As I have resistive plugs (the "R" in BPR6IEX), I don't need the extenders for their resistive qualities, and don't need them for their misfires either.
I have gone for the "6" plugs in place of the "7"s because IMHO the 7s run too cool and have too protected an electrode, so they foul up easily and cause poor running. The 6s spark that bit hotter and run better. Lexus fit iridium plugs in their super smooth running LS saloons, and change them every 60,000 miles. Not only do you get more miles out of them, but you get a much better and more even spark for far longer.
Finally, "hotter" plugs just means the spark is hotter, not that they generate more heat externally. The extenders or socks, your choice, are merely there to keep the plug leads off the hot engine and stop them melting.
Any questions?
QBee said:
Finally, "hotter" plugs just means the spark is hotter, not that they generate more heat externally.
Whoaaahhh there... the heat range is to do with how hot the plug gets in operation and whether it attains a temperature where its intrinsic self-cleaning abilities are enabled (or not). A 6 does this over a 7 by conducting less heat away from the combustion chamber (thereby retaining that heat in the plug and also the chamber) - not a problem if your 7 is cold fouling; quite possibly a problem if it is not; potentially a big problem if the extra heat in the chamber tips it into pre-ignition due to anything that likes to glow starting to (including the plug tip).Maybe the OP should say a bit about his engine spec and how the car is typically used before we go much further (and yes, I know most RV8s are happy enough on a BR6ES or similar...
Pupp said:
QBee said:
Finally, "hotter" plugs just means the spark is hotter, not that they generate more heat externally.
Whoaaahhh there... the heat range is to do with how hot the plug gets in operation and whether it attains a temperature where its intrinsic self-cleaning abilities are enabled (or not). A 6 does this over a 7 by conducting less heat away from the combustion chamber (thereby retaining that heat in the plug and also the chamber) - not a problem if your 7 is cold fouling; quite possibly a problem if it is not; potentially a big problem if the extra heat in the chamber tips it into pre-ignition due to anything that likes to glow starting to (including the plug tip).Maybe the OP should say a bit about his engine spec and how the car is typically used before we go much further (and yes, I know most RV8s are happy enough on a BR6ES or similar...
My TVR guy, having seen loads of fouled 7s, as well as some clean ones, and a number of cars running on 6s, is now recommending 6s for all RV8s.
The car is a 95 400hc with over 100k miles on it. Daily driver in a nice warm Mediterranean climate, not going to be tracked or driven hard extensively. New original spec hc cam, act decatted, act induction carbon trumpet plenum, otherwise standard. Expect to do about 6k miles per year.
Does that help?
Does that help?
BR6ES or BPR6ES be spot on I'd say; or the Iridium equivalents if you fancy or if easier to source. The 'P' in the prefix means projecting nose, which will notionally run a tad cleaner. The recommended ECS suffix plugs are not available as a 6 as far as I know and are only specced due to their inherently more robust ground electrode, which will resist detonation damage on caned engines better than the regular ES type (or fine tips like Iridiums). I've never seen a regular NGK mechanically fail in use however; I have seen a few melt (but in very extreme circumstances). Don't cross-thread 'em when changing and tighten them properly 
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