Rear Main Seal Leak - Vote Now!
Discussion
Well "leaking slightly" is how it's been described to me!
Please be aware the gearbox and flywheel have already been removed from the car due to the installation of a new clutch.
So lets have your votes chaps....
Option One: A no-brainer to invest the additional £140 plus VAT and replace the lip seal along with the crucifix seals while the box is already out (includes sump re-seal)?
Option Two: Save the £140 plus VAT and live with the slight weep that's probably been there for years and caused me no trouble so far?
The sump was effectively re-sealed recently so there's no benefit in doing this again, since the sump re-seal there's not been a single drop of oil on the garage floor. I have no giant grommet in the bell housing inspection hole so I would have expected to have seen drips if the rear main seal issue was anything other than a weep.
Before placing your vote I'd like you to think of the money as your own, sadly I do not have endless pockets for non-urgent work.
Remember This Is Only A Slight Leak
So...do I take option 1 or 2?
NB: A cost effective enhancement of Option 2 could be to invest £7.00 in a can of Whyns stop leak?
Please be aware the gearbox and flywheel have already been removed from the car due to the installation of a new clutch.
So lets have your votes chaps....
Option One: A no-brainer to invest the additional £140 plus VAT and replace the lip seal along with the crucifix seals while the box is already out (includes sump re-seal)?
Option Two: Save the £140 plus VAT and live with the slight weep that's probably been there for years and caused me no trouble so far?
The sump was effectively re-sealed recently so there's no benefit in doing this again, since the sump re-seal there's not been a single drop of oil on the garage floor. I have no giant grommet in the bell housing inspection hole so I would have expected to have seen drips if the rear main seal issue was anything other than a weep.
Before placing your vote I'd like you to think of the money as your own, sadly I do not have endless pockets for non-urgent work.
Remember This Is Only A Slight Leak
So...do I take option 1 or 2?
| PH NAME | |OPTION 1 | OPTION 2 |
|---|---|---|
| Chimpongas | X | |
NB: A cost effective enhancement of Option 2 could be to invest £7.00 in a can of Whyns stop leak?
m4tti said:
Presuming this is a joke...
Not at all!Seal swelling agents work in 90% of cases assuming:
1: The leak is genuinely lip seal related (as in this case)
2: The leak is relatively minor (as in this case)
3: The lip seal is not pinched or physically compromised in any way (as in this case)
All quality engine oils contain a certain level of seal conditioning agents already, adding a slightly higher concentration will thin the oil slightly but doesn't constitute a significant risk to engine life.
Stop leak products don't last for ever so you do need to keep using it from time to time, say every second oil change to maintain the desired result. Admittedly there's no such thing as a miracle in a bottle, it's a temporary cure and is no alternative to proper seal replacement.
The real question is will the seals go on weeping with no significant negative consequences for years to come as I suspect, or should I do the right thing and pull the trigger on another £168 of work on top of all the other planned spending?
Your votes will help me decide, remember the answer is simple when you're not spending your own money so please try and think about it as if it was your £168
Hi all.
Option number 1 definitely!
I bought my previous Chim with a "slight" oil leak and the amount that came out over a week was disturbing!
that turned out to be the rear main oil seal but whilst it was being done, a new clutch, sump re seal and the associated bits.
Do it while you have the chance, you'll regret it if you don't!
Regards Chris
Option number 1 definitely!
I bought my previous Chim with a "slight" oil leak and the amount that came out over a week was disturbing!
that turned out to be the rear main oil seal but whilst it was being done, a new clutch, sump re seal and the associated bits.
Do it while you have the chance, you'll regret it if you don't!
Regards Chris
Thanks chaps, kind of knew the answer already and which way I'd fall but it's nice to throw these things out there.
My favorite response by far....
So... 'Ol Gasbag' gets a new rear main seal, new crucifix seals and her second sump re-seal in a few months (even though the first one worked a treat) 
This way we also get to break the cap and look at the state of the shell, lets hope it's not showing any copper
Thanks again, Dave
My favorite response by far....
neal1980 said:
ChimpOnGas said:
Option One: A no-brainer
Without doubt for the sake of the extra money now which you save by having LPG anyway!This way we also get to break the cap and look at the state of the shell, lets hope it's not showing any copper
Thanks again, Dave
Hedgehopper said:
Have you got a 'bridge plate' fitted? Sold by Rimmers. Not sure how effective it is but everything helps.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=126...
It's certainly a useful addition when resealing the sump but it's by no means a quick cure for existing oil leaks
phazed said:
Option 1 all day long.
Simon and I did my old 4.6. Cruciform seals had shrunk badly and no other sealant.
Tell the Lloyd boys to purchase from a very reputable supplier as there are a lot of copies around that shrink and leak!
This ^ actually Peter educated me on the shrinking T cruciform seals with some after market sets Simon and I did my old 4.6. Cruciform seals had shrunk badly and no other sealant.
Tell the Lloyd boys to purchase from a very reputable supplier as there are a lot of copies around that shrink and leak!
I used a Victor Reinz lower end gasket set on my build to avoid this as VR are OE with varios manufacturers and are regarded as the dogs testicles in the m trade Thought number one - a little oil seeping under the car will nicely protect the chassis behind it from corroding. I have left my minor oil leak on the Chim because it isn't losing enough oil to worry my TVR expert, and it is protecting the underneath nicely. To fix it would cost money out of all proportion to the benefit gained.....
BUT
Thought number two - whilst you're already in there, do everything that needs doing. My daily Saab has its engine in pieces right now for a replacement head gasket, but, knowing I am using too much oil, the piston rings, crankshaft shells, cam timing gear and valve stem seals are all being replaced as well so that I have fewer engine related issues over the next two years/75,000 miles, and don't have to have the car off the road and the engine in pieces for any of those items any time soon.
BUT
Thought number two - whilst you're already in there, do everything that needs doing. My daily Saab has its engine in pieces right now for a replacement head gasket, but, knowing I am using too much oil, the piston rings, crankshaft shells, cam timing gear and valve stem seals are all being replaced as well so that I have fewer engine related issues over the next two years/75,000 miles, and don't have to have the car off the road and the engine in pieces for any of those items any time soon.
Dave,as one of the more intelligent posters on here and renowned for putting a good argument forward,look at it from this perspective .i
If you don't replace the seal and in 6months it gets worse,you have contaminated a nice new clutch.....costs and gearbox out to replace seal and clutch....costs
By replacing now you have minimal costs but you will also have a warranty with the work and piece of mind
Definitely no brainer
Rich
If you don't replace the seal and in 6months it gets worse,you have contaminated a nice new clutch.....costs and gearbox out to replace seal and clutch....costs
By replacing now you have minimal costs but you will also have a warranty with the work and piece of mind
Definitely no brainer
Rich
sheel said:
Dave,as one of the more intelligent posters on here and renowned for putting a good argument forward,look at it from this perspective .i
If you don't replace the seal and in 6months it gets worse,you have contaminated a nice new clutch.....costs and gearbox out to replace seal and clutch....costs
By replacing now you have minimal costs but you will also have a warranty with the work and piece of mind
Definitely no brainer
Rich
If you don't replace the seal and in 6months it gets worse,you have contaminated a nice new clutch.....costs and gearbox out to replace seal and clutch....costs
By replacing now you have minimal costs but you will also have a warranty with the work and piece of mind
Definitely no brainer
Rich
Thanks Rich/all, its definitely getting done chapsFor those following my latest clutch/flywheel/gear shift improvements it may be of interest to know that my Helix cover plate revealed evidence of overheating.
This comes as no surprise to me, TBH I'll be glad to see the back of the Helix clutch which stands as the worst component choice for my TVR to date... by far.
I've lived with it for getting on for four years now, my best advice regarding this clutch being... AVOID!!!
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