Rough running and weak spark from coil

Rough running and weak spark from coil

Author
Discussion

TWB86

Original Poster:

53 posts

114 months

Friday 12th February 2016
quotequote all
Well, a bit more time spent on it today.

The 100amp fuse was fine and i have replaced the coil, the spark coming off the coil and at the plugs does seem stronger now and orange/blue in colour. But unfortunately when you turn it over you can hear it trying to catch and fire up every so often but still not starting. I've taken the new plugs out again to let the fuel evaporate overnight.

Not sure what the next step should be, ignition amp? The parts aren't mega expensive and the car hasn't had anything spent on it for a while so i don't begrudge it a few spares even if they don't turn out to have been absolutely necessary on the way, i'd rather spend the money on that and learn a bit more about the car whilst doing it myself than send it straight off to the garage and spend the same on labour. Up to a point anyway! confused

Tom

JWzed

185 posts

126 months

Friday 12th February 2016
quotequote all
Are the HT leads on the right cylinders? Silly question I know. But if you've had the leads off then it's easy to get a mix up when replacing them.

TWB86

Original Poster:

53 posts

114 months

Friday 12th February 2016
quotequote all
Hi JWzed,

Yes they are, fair question though!

blitzracing

6,387 posts

221 months

Friday 12th February 2016
quotequote all
Try a good blast of easy start into the air intake (AFM) and see it it catches- you will need someone on the throttle as you do to let the air in- if it fires its not a spark related issue. In terms of general HT issues I assume the dizzy has not been out at any point to upset the timing? Hows the inside of the distributor cap- does it have its carbon brush in place and hows the rotor arm? Some patten rotor arms can short down to ground with no visible signs of failure. Try cranking in the dark and look at the HT area- any sign of a lightning show where the HT might be leaking down to ground? Try getting a strobe on number one plug lead and check you can see the timing mark at 10' (or so) before top dead centre as you crank the engine.

Fault finding by blindly swapping parts is not a good idea as you can introduce new faults as you go- a logical approach to fault finding is a better idea.