I really need to sort the hot start snag out......garages SW

I really need to sort the hot start snag out......garages SW

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N7GTX

7,867 posts

143 months

Wednesday 27th April 2016
quotequote all
You can check your battery condition following these simple steps with a basic voltmeter/multimeter.

Leave the car overnight if possible then ensure all electric switches are off, key out of the ignition, before checking:

1. Access the battery and check the voltage across the terminals - must be min of 12.6 volts (6 cells x 2.1v). If less than 12.6 then suspect poor condition.
2. Start the car and check the charging rate - min of 13.8 but 14.2 ideal. Run for 10 mins.
3. Stop the engine. Reading must be 12.6 or higher. If not battery needs replacing.
4. Turn ignition on and switch headlamps on for 30 seconds.
5. Switch everything off. Take a reading at the battery terminals. It will be well below 12.6 volts.
6. Keep the meter connected and watch the reading. The recovery rate is the key so watch the reading climb upwards.
7. A good battery will recover at around 0.1 volts every 1-3 seconds approx. It will continue to climb to a minimum of 12.6 volts.
8. A poor battery will recover very slowly if at all. If it cannot recover to 12.6 it is time to replace.

Once a battery is heavily discharged either to completely flat or low voltage, it will never return to its previous performance despite charging. Best to replace.

QBee

20,984 posts

144 months

Wednesday 27th April 2016
quotequote all
Thanks Iain. Printed and filed in my Boy's Own How To file. type

Paulprior

864 posts

105 months

Wednesday 27th April 2016
quotequote all
Thanks guys
I will try the above as well as trying Halfords or similar
I did a few checks with a multimeter as thats all i have, my battery was at 12.6v with ignition off, but when the car failed to start but with the engine just about cranking over the voltage dropped to 10.0v, after charging i still get 12.6v and while cranking 11.5v, starting the engine gives 13.8 at tickover as well as higher revs.
So i am suspicious of the battery as dropping to 10.0v cranking after a run of 6 miles doesnt sound good, but why is it worse when hot, i get a good turn over speed when cold, but just driving 2 miles to the petrol station and it only just turns over, i wouldnt have thought that cables would heat up that fast to cause a problem?

mk1fan

10,517 posts

225 months

Wednesday 27th April 2016
quotequote all
Not being rude.

Have you read the thread? TVR fitted undersized cables from the battery - inc earths. They also had some dubious 'bodges' to connect earths.

It's worth checking all the earth points for tightness and connection as a default start. Then upsize the cables. A new battery may well be required but at least it'll now be maintained by the system as it should be.

This is a very common issue with TVRs.

WinstonWolf

72,857 posts

239 months

Wednesday 27th April 2016
quotequote all
So explain this one, mine wouldn't turn over for the last six months, I suspect the immobiliser. Been doing various tests to no avail and got a bit pissed off with it and I left it off charge. I went out there today to put it on and as if by magic it now starts again...

smash

mk1fan

10,517 posts

225 months

Wednesday 27th April 2016
quotequote all
That's the secondary layer of TVR magic. Even if everything is working, it won't work together biggrin

77racing

3,346 posts

187 months

Wednesday 27th April 2016
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I think I'm right in saying the immobilizer just turns of the fuel pump not the starter motor

WinstonWolf

72,857 posts

239 months

Wednesday 27th April 2016
quotequote all
77racing said:
I think I'm right in saying the immobilizer just turns of the fuel pump not the starter motor
It turns off both, but is capable of failing either circuit. Ask me how I know so much smashhehe