What do I need to do...

What do I need to do...

Author
Discussion

jamienshelly

1,826 posts

137 months

Monday 25th April 2016
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Just had this done, A lot cheaper than a TVR reflex/flip too wink
Still needs buffing and polishing as not even able to wash for 3 days. So pics are dirty unpolished car with a 'gun' finish













QBee

20,906 posts

143 months

Monday 25th April 2016
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Do tell us more - what exactly is that paint job, and at what sort of cost please?

jamienshelly

1,826 posts

137 months

Monday 25th April 2016
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QBee said:
Do tell us more - what exactly is that paint job, and at what sort of cost please?
Its a Spray Wrap, Similar to PlastiDip but the next evolution and 'pro' range called Autoflex. The normal plastidip can be affected by fuel and doesn't have the same gloss effect as oem paint, but, you can just peel it off when you have had enough and do another colour (about a day to do) or just go back to original untouched original paint. The auto flex is the same as in you can peel it off but it is scratch and stonechip resistant, it is fuel resistant and can be sanded, buffed and polished to an oem are greater gloss. The pearl I have is extremely expensive, as in a normal 4-6 colour shift pearl for 25g is around £1:50, the pearl I have for 35g was £200!!!! But you can complete a Chim in autoflex with normal pearl for about £1200 (door shuts, under bonnet etc will increase the price obviously, A plastidip covering will be about £600 I think.
The company that did mine was MK Dips and very happy, It is owned by a young guy that is just trying to get ahead in life, Its not the most perfect finish but I don't mind that as he explained that the stone chips etc would not be filled in by the coats and autoflex is very new to the market. I am Sure he would welcome your interest and has a webpage MK Dips

Outl4w

697 posts

146 months

Tuesday 21st February 2017
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How is the Autoflex holding up? My Cerb is currently being prepped for it and keen to know how it does in the real world....


ChilliWhizz

11,990 posts

160 months

Wednesday 22nd February 2017
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jamienshelly said:
That Griff could do with a re-spray smile

Brithunter

599 posts

87 months

Wednesday 22nd February 2017
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QBee said:
Have you thought of doing the doors opening wider mod? I am getting to the stage where I have to take the roof off to get into the car. If you can find such a mod, do let me know.....
OK this has piqued my interest as I noticed the lack of door opening and as I do suffer with arthritis this is of some interest to me obviously. Where does one find information about this opening wider for the doors mod? Tried google but came up empty!


ChilliWhizz

11,990 posts

160 months

Wednesday 22nd February 2017
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Brithunter said:
QBee said:
Have you thought of doing the doors opening wider mod? I am getting to the stage where I have to take the roof off to get into the car. If you can find such a mod, do let me know.....
OK this has piqued my interest as I noticed the lack of door opening and as I do suffer with arthritis this is of some interest to me obviously. Where does one find information about this opening wider for the doors mod? Tried google but came up empty!
Yes I'd like to hear more about this mod too..

whistle

ClassicChimaera

12,424 posts

148 months

Wednesday 22nd February 2017
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Some cars have little pads stuck to the body of the car and the door rests apon it when open, you can slim these down and that will widen the opening,, never heard of any other way so I'm all ears on this one smile

ChilliWhizz

11,990 posts

160 months

Wednesday 22nd February 2017
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I always thought this was very interesting...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tVo_wkxH9dU

ChimpOnGas

9,637 posts

178 months

Wednesday 22nd February 2017
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Bassfiend229hp said:
Dave's constant quest to get his running better and better on fairy farts...Phil
rofl

For your information Fairy Farts work better than you ever might expect wink

Latest successful strategies in my eternal search for worlds smoothest driving Chimaera (irrespective of fuel type) include...
  • Idle ignition timing now set at 25 degrees
  • A rescaling of fuel & ignition maps to deliver enhanced load/RPM resolution between 1500-2100rpm (shunting zone) and 2500-3000rpm (cruise), and a map that now ends at 6,150rpm not the 7,150rpm I will never visit, all of which freeing up lots of previously wasted cells in my tables
  • Dialled in less advance (up to 6 degrees less in places) between 1500-2100rpm and embarked on obsessively reducing the increase or decrease in timing degrees between cells to an absolute minimum increment possible
  • The elimination of any potential tiny vacuum leaks, with special focus on the PCV hoses
  • Fitted a Jeep PCV valve and used hose clips on all PCV hoses where they are just a push fit as standard
  • Increased rest/idle throttle butterfly air gap and removed all base idle bleed screw involvement in idle speed adjustment
  • Reset 0-100% TPS calibration
  • Retuned Canems closed loop throttle settings to maintain 1000rpm idle target
  • Retuned idle AFR in open loop (13.3:1), reinstated closed loop but set to check & correct slower (every 0.40 seconds), and only correct by 1% with a maximum correction size of 2%
Idle quality, throttle response, light throttle urban driving and off idle pulling away from junctions now smoother than they've ever been, and it was good before cloud9

Fairy Farts are where it's at wink






Edited by ChimpOnGas on Wednesday 22 February 16:48