Pulling to the left
Discussion
I am like a doctor with out a patient so good luck 
Process of elimination....
1. Borrow a complete set of wheels & tyres from another Chim and see if it still occurs....
2. Power steering? (you didn't answer my earlier question)
3. 4 wheel alignment maybe... are they all pointing in the right direction? - basically a full geo...
4. Drag... (mentioned above) brake or diff...
5. sensitivity to road camber... I have no idea what I'm talking about here but is it possible the current setup, i.e. toe in/out/camber etc have made the car particularly sensitive to road camber... if possible, find a bit of road where the natural camber falls to the right and see what happens...
6. Completely lateral thinking now, is it possible the poly bushes are 'binding' up the suspension so there is some 'stored energy' affecting the geo?
That's it... All I can think of...
1. Borrow a complete set of wheels & tyres from another Chim and see if it still occurs....
2. Power steering? (you didn't answer my earlier question)
3. 4 wheel alignment maybe... are they all pointing in the right direction? - basically a full geo...
4. Drag... (mentioned above) brake or diff...
5. sensitivity to road camber... I have no idea what I'm talking about here but is it possible the current setup, i.e. toe in/out/camber etc have made the car particularly sensitive to road camber... if possible, find a bit of road where the natural camber falls to the right and see what happens...
6. Completely lateral thinking now, is it possible the poly bushes are 'binding' up the suspension so there is some 'stored energy' affecting the geo?
That's it... All I can think of...
I can't see why this is happening Daz, settings aren't that critical and worn joints or bearings won't make the car dive to the side.
My sons have binned many a car and we have straightened them up, (including a very bent Polo that crashed head on into a lamp post, we strapped the rear to a tree and used my Land Rover winch to straighten the front subframe
) and all drove well after a bit of bashing and straightening.
The fact that yours has been geoed and checked makes no sense!
My sons have binned many a car and we have straightened them up, (including a very bent Polo that crashed head on into a lamp post, we strapped the rear to a tree and used my Land Rover winch to straighten the front subframe
) and all drove well after a bit of bashing and straightening.The fact that yours has been geoed and checked makes no sense!
Mine tried to kill me when i first had it. Drove down the 16 Foot Drain (very Fen boy, me), dead straight road but bumpy, and couldn't get above 60 without feeling I was going to end up in the river. Nearly wept - this car was supposed to be fun, and was crap compared to my Saab, which could handle that road at twice speed no problem.
Took it to Mat Smith, he checked it over and noticed that the selling dealer had changed ball joints to get it through the MOT. He stuck it on his Hunter machine and announced that the right front was 9 degrees out..... and no setting on the entire car was actually correct. Totally different car when i got it back.
What i am saying is, it has to be something straight forward. So book it in with Mat on 01366 386004 (we can trailer it over if you are not fancying the A17 with a wandering car), and let him both geo it and cast his expert eye and spanners over it. If he cannot sort it i would be really surprised.
Better than changing stuff at random.
Took it to Mat Smith, he checked it over and noticed that the selling dealer had changed ball joints to get it through the MOT. He stuck it on his Hunter machine and announced that the right front was 9 degrees out..... and no setting on the entire car was actually correct. Totally different car when i got it back.
What i am saying is, it has to be something straight forward. So book it in with Mat on 01366 386004 (we can trailer it over if you are not fancying the A17 with a wandering car), and let him both geo it and cast his expert eye and spanners over it. If he cannot sort it i would be really surprised.
Better than changing stuff at random.
QBee said:
Mine tried to kill me when i first had it. Drove down the 16 Foot Drain (very Fen boy, me), dead straight road but bumpy, and couldn't get above 60 without feeling I was going to end up in the river. Nearly wept - this car was supposed to be fun, and was crap compared to my Saab, which could handle that road at twice speed no problem.
Took it to Mat Smith, he checked it over and noticed that the selling dealer had changed ball joints to get it through the MOT. He stuck it on his Hunter machine and announced that the right front was 9 degrees out..... and no setting on the entire car was actually correct. Totally different car when i got it back.
What i am saying is, it has to be something straight forward. So book it in with Mat on 01366 386004 (we can trailer it over if you are not fancying the A17 with a wandering car), and let him both geo it and cast his expert eye and spanners over it. If he cannot sort it i would be really surprised.
Better than changing stuff at random.
This or Centre Gravity (Mine was equally amazing after a visit). You will save time and money if you let an expert solve this particular conundrum IMO.Took it to Mat Smith, he checked it over and noticed that the selling dealer had changed ball joints to get it through the MOT. He stuck it on his Hunter machine and announced that the right front was 9 degrees out..... and no setting on the entire car was actually correct. Totally different car when i got it back.
What i am saying is, it has to be something straight forward. So book it in with Mat on 01366 386004 (we can trailer it over if you are not fancying the A17 with a wandering car), and let him both geo it and cast his expert eye and spanners over it. If he cannot sort it i would be really surprised.
Better than changing stuff at random.
phazed said:
I can't see why this is happening Daz, settings aren't that critical and worn joints or bearings won't make the car dive to the side.
My sons have binned many a car and we have straightened them up, (including a very bent Polo that crashed head on into a lamp post, we strapped the rear to a tree and used my Land Rover winch to straighten the front subframe ) and all drove well after a bit of bashing and straightening.
The fact that yours has been geoed and checked makes no sense!
This ^ It makes no sense Daz for things to be that bad your problem is obvious to the trained eye My sons have binned many a car and we have straightened them up, (including a very bent Polo that crashed head on into a lamp post, we strapped the rear to a tree and used my Land Rover winch to straighten the front subframe
) and all drove well after a bit of bashing and straightening.The fact that yours has been geoed and checked makes no sense!
you need it on a Hunter machine.. make sure the back wheels are correct and both pushing down the ctr line of the car referancing the fronts, otherwise you'll never get it right and the Hunter type machine is the only way of doing this (no good wheel to wheel with the laser things).
also worthy of note is that the chassis will have a set in it... due to initial manufacture or torque twist over time (don't laugh... it happens)... so if you have harder springs it gets a lot more noticable as 'some' wheels are carrying more of the load.
If it's pulling left, relax the spring on the front LHS by 5-10mm and see what happens?.. but would be best to get it corner weighted (all 4 wheels at once)
also worthy of note is that the chassis will have a set in it... due to initial manufacture or torque twist over time (don't laugh... it happens)... so if you have harder springs it gets a lot more noticable as 'some' wheels are carrying more of the load.
If it's pulling left, relax the spring on the front LHS by 5-10mm and see what happens?.. but would be best to get it corner weighted (all 4 wheels at once)
SILICONEKID345HP said:
I have two sets of wheels , nothing changes. If I go on the wrong side of the road it still shoots to the left .That is against the camber.
Does it always pull to the left? and also, can it be made to pull to the right (ie on opposite road camber etc)?Edited by SILICONEKID345HP on Tuesday 3rd May 21:14
Thrust angle, as said before you need to dial out any thrust angle by adjusting rear toe to square it up then the fronts to suit the rears so it's running in a straight line. Corner weighting will get an even weight distribution on all four tyres as best you can get it with driver in place,, Matts your man. If it's that bad I wouldn't want to trust just my own judgment so I'd be taking it to an expert on these cars so he can work it out,, it can't be that hard!
To my mind if it's pulling you gotta re check geo to discount the obvious .
To my mind if it's pulling you gotta re check geo to discount the obvious .
Many moons ago when I worked at a dealership we would often get in damaged repaired 4 wheel steer Honda Preludes from other ouside body-shops and garages etc that either pulled or crabbed after they had changed many suspension components i.e wishbones rack's etc and realised they was slowly getting out of their depth trying to set up the wheel alignment separately 
I had the task to sort and quite often was the fact the wheels front to rear were not referenced to each other/square checked separately everything was fine but tie front & rear together/thrust-line plain awful bent like a banana 
my point is Daz your problem will come to light with a decent 4 wheel geo it cant lie unless the operator don't know his arse from his elbow of course its that simple 
I had the task to sort and quite often was the fact the wheels front to rear were not referenced to each other/square checked separately everything was fine but tie front & rear together/thrust-line plain awful bent like a banana my point is Daz your problem will come to light with a decent 4 wheel geo it cant lie unless the operator don't know his arse from his elbow of course its that simple Edited by Sardonicus on Wednesday 4th May 15:58
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