17" wheels on a Chimaera.?
Discussion
Im contemplating getting a set of 17" Team Dynamics Pro race 1.2 ,,, OR Pro race 3, wheels for my car.
A 98 4.0L Chimaera.
Can somebody enlighten me to the PCD [4 stud], offset and recommended widths to fit the car...
Do I get a set of 7" all round or stagger them front to back, ie 7" fronts and 8" rears etc.???
These will most probably get used on track days, shod with some Toyo R888,s or Dunlop DZ03G,s...
Any advice is welcome...
Thanks...
A 98 4.0L Chimaera.
Can somebody enlighten me to the PCD [4 stud], offset and recommended widths to fit the car...
Do I get a set of 7" all round or stagger them front to back, ie 7" fronts and 8" rears etc.???
These will most probably get used on track days, shod with some Toyo R888,s or Dunlop DZ03G,s...
Any advice is welcome...
Thanks...
TailEndCharlie said:
Im contemplating getting a set of 17" Team Dynamics Pro race 1.2 ,,, OR Pro race 3, wheels for my car.
A 98 4.0L Chimaera.
Can somebody enlighten me to the PCD [4 stud], offset and recommended widths to fit the car...
Do I get a set of 7" all round or stagger them front to back, ie 7" fronts and 8" rears etc.???
These will most probably get used on track days, shod with some Toyo R888,s or Dunlop DZ03G,s...
Any advice is welcome...
Thanks...
4x108 Front et 25 7 or 7.5 J 215 /40/14 or 245/40/17A 98 4.0L Chimaera.
Can somebody enlighten me to the PCD [4 stud], offset and recommended widths to fit the car...
Do I get a set of 7" all round or stagger them front to back, ie 7" fronts and 8" rears etc.???
These will most probably get used on track days, shod with some Toyo R888,s or Dunlop DZ03G,s...
Any advice is welcome...
Thanks...
4x108 Rear et 33 or 35 8j 245/40/17 or 235/45/17 I would go for 235`s look better in the arch .
Demon Tweaks sell them or If you can aford it go for SP 12`s they don't have the letters on the rim .
To answer the remaining questions, the centre bore is a minimum of 63.2mm.
The standard offsets on Chimaeras are ET 25 front and ET33 rear. Later cars were ET 33 all around. It's not too critical, just err on the high side because you can always reduce a higher ET to a lower one with a spacer, but you cannot go the other way.
4x108 is correct.
7 or 7.5J front, 7.5 or 8J rear. The width is determined by the tyre width you want to run. There is a chart at Brickyard.com.
If you are fitting R888 or R888R (the new version) don't forget that they are very square-shouldered so tend to come up about 10mm wider than standard tyres. Anything above 225 wide at the rear could give you rubbing issue on the arches, though a lot can be achieved by raising ride height a tad.
SP12 wheels (Pro Race 1.2 is a dead ringer) tend to be bought in 17 inch 7.5J ft front and 18 inch 8J rear. I ran 215/45 17 fronts and 235/40 18 rears, but had to fiddle with ride height to stop the rears smoking on the arches. If you want to get the classic 25 mm Chimaera front to rear stagger then you need to understand tyre sizing. Explanation below. Don't mess about with the odd millimetre - tyres wear, so over their life time road tyres will reduce by 12 mm in diameter and even R888s will reduce by 6mm. And anyway, you can always adjust by ride height. I am presently running 215/45 17 all round, with the rear ride height raised to get the nose down stance.
Tyre diameters:
tyre width is in millimetres, so 215 is 215mm
Aspect ratio is a percentage, the ratio of the sidewall height to the width. So 45 is 45% of the say 215, or 96.25mm.
Wheel diameter is in inches, so 17 is 17 inches, or 431mm
So a 215/45 17 will have a diameter of 431 + (215 x 45% x 2) = 624.5mm
A 215/40 17 will have a diameter of 431 + (215 x40% x 2) = 603 mm
The reason Daz suggested 215/40 17 fronts (before his arithmetic failed him) is that the standard 15/16 set up was 205/55 15, 225/50 16 rears.
Doing the maths, fronts 15 inches = 381mm. 381 + (205 x 55% x2) = 606mm. Rears 406 +(225 x 50% x 2) = 631mm so a 25 mm difference front to rear.
Try not to go bigger than 645mm at the rear - you will spend your driving life trying to stop them catching.
As you can see, my 235/40 18 rears were 457 + (235 x 40% x 2) = 645mm, fronts 624.5mm as above.
Two other things on tyre buying:
Load rating and speed rating.
Load rating is the stiffness of the sidewall, which defines how much weight the tyre can safely carry, but also how stiff a ride you will have. Somewhere between 83 and 92 would be about right, the 92 being stiffer than the 83.
Speed rating is the letter at the end of the definition : the Y at the end of 215/45 17 91Y. You must have a speed rating that will handle the car's 161mph top speed.
Finally date codes: some cheap tyre sellers try to sell you old stock. A tyre over 4 years old is going hard, over 6 years is bin-fodder. You want nice soft rubber. The date code is on one sidewall only, and is a four digit code. Week number and year. So 4410 is week 44 of 2010, so made on November 5th 2010 and fit only for the bonfire
Oh dear - I'm morphing into Chimpongas
The standard offsets on Chimaeras are ET 25 front and ET33 rear. Later cars were ET 33 all around. It's not too critical, just err on the high side because you can always reduce a higher ET to a lower one with a spacer, but you cannot go the other way.
4x108 is correct.
7 or 7.5J front, 7.5 or 8J rear. The width is determined by the tyre width you want to run. There is a chart at Brickyard.com.
If you are fitting R888 or R888R (the new version) don't forget that they are very square-shouldered so tend to come up about 10mm wider than standard tyres. Anything above 225 wide at the rear could give you rubbing issue on the arches, though a lot can be achieved by raising ride height a tad.
SP12 wheels (Pro Race 1.2 is a dead ringer) tend to be bought in 17 inch 7.5J ft front and 18 inch 8J rear. I ran 215/45 17 fronts and 235/40 18 rears, but had to fiddle with ride height to stop the rears smoking on the arches. If you want to get the classic 25 mm Chimaera front to rear stagger then you need to understand tyre sizing. Explanation below. Don't mess about with the odd millimetre - tyres wear, so over their life time road tyres will reduce by 12 mm in diameter and even R888s will reduce by 6mm. And anyway, you can always adjust by ride height. I am presently running 215/45 17 all round, with the rear ride height raised to get the nose down stance.
Tyre diameters:
tyre width is in millimetres, so 215 is 215mm
Aspect ratio is a percentage, the ratio of the sidewall height to the width. So 45 is 45% of the say 215, or 96.25mm.
Wheel diameter is in inches, so 17 is 17 inches, or 431mm
So a 215/45 17 will have a diameter of 431 + (215 x 45% x 2) = 624.5mm
A 215/40 17 will have a diameter of 431 + (215 x40% x 2) = 603 mm
The reason Daz suggested 215/40 17 fronts (before his arithmetic failed him) is that the standard 15/16 set up was 205/55 15, 225/50 16 rears.
Doing the maths, fronts 15 inches = 381mm. 381 + (205 x 55% x2) = 606mm. Rears 406 +(225 x 50% x 2) = 631mm so a 25 mm difference front to rear.
Try not to go bigger than 645mm at the rear - you will spend your driving life trying to stop them catching.
As you can see, my 235/40 18 rears were 457 + (235 x 40% x 2) = 645mm, fronts 624.5mm as above.
Two other things on tyre buying:
Load rating and speed rating.
Load rating is the stiffness of the sidewall, which defines how much weight the tyre can safely carry, but also how stiff a ride you will have. Somewhere between 83 and 92 would be about right, the 92 being stiffer than the 83.
Speed rating is the letter at the end of the definition : the Y at the end of 215/45 17 91Y. You must have a speed rating that will handle the car's 161mph top speed.
Finally date codes: some cheap tyre sellers try to sell you old stock. A tyre over 4 years old is going hard, over 6 years is bin-fodder. You want nice soft rubber. The date code is on one sidewall only, and is a four digit code. Week number and year. So 4410 is week 44 of 2010, so made on November 5th 2010 and fit only for the bonfire
Oh dear - I'm morphing into Chimpongas
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