Anomalies .... ?!
Discussion
We drive at moment two different engines with ele.water pumps and both over the core plugs.
Also the setting of the temperature is by both cars by 85°C.
- Speed 6 4,3 : here we drive the system with one pump in our standard cooling circle and a
second pump as emergency - system controlled over a different thermoswitch (95°-100°C)
into the cooler.
- Rover V8 4,6 : here we drive the system with one pump in our standard cooling circle and
over the different thermoswitch (95°-100°C) into the cooler we control on emergency LED and
soundgenerator
But the controller of the ele.water pump has also one emergency alarm function integrated.
Both systems works still now without any problems or mistakes and never we got one emergency
alarm if not we was provoked it.
If we would find in the future one mistake we would desgin one controller which can drive on
different electrical circle two water pumps which for the daily work will switch-over between
the pumps but in emergency status switch both pumps to work (redundat system)
BMW and AUDI works with ele.water pumps from 2009 and it´s work.
Regards
Gregor
P.S.: Sorry for my bad english
Also the setting of the temperature is by both cars by 85°C.
- Speed 6 4,3 : here we drive the system with one pump in our standard cooling circle and a
second pump as emergency - system controlled over a different thermoswitch (95°-100°C)
into the cooler.
- Rover V8 4,6 : here we drive the system with one pump in our standard cooling circle and
over the different thermoswitch (95°-100°C) into the cooler we control on emergency LED and
soundgenerator
But the controller of the ele.water pump has also one emergency alarm function integrated.
Both systems works still now without any problems or mistakes and never we got one emergency
alarm if not we was provoked it.
If we would find in the future one mistake we would desgin one controller which can drive on
different electrical circle two water pumps which for the daily work will switch-over between
the pumps but in emergency status switch both pumps to work (redundat system)
BMW and AUDI works with ele.water pumps from 2009 and it´s work.
Regards
Gregor
P.S.: Sorry for my bad english
Konrod said:
I've seen the same diagrams on the speed six forum in here and I have to say I'm not sold in it as shown. Reason is that if you have inlet and outlet opposite each other, the coolant will take line of least resistance and the coolant at either end (cylinders 1 and 6) will just eddy and get warmer - it's a bit like the pools at the side of a fast flowing river. With coolant going front to back (across a narrow front) then at least there will be few eddies and all cylinders will get cooling albeit I accept the front will be cooler than the back.
It also means that the coolant sensor location becomes a problem, in the centre it isn't giving a true picture.
May be different on a V8 or 4 cylinder where the "front" that the coolant is travelling across is narrower.
This is just my opinion - has anyone tested this?
If the inlet was not a single pipe in the center, but split into two pipes (one at either end of the head), while retaining the single central exit - would this not solve the "eddying" issue for both heat extraction and true temperature reading? (forcing water from either end towards the centre exit)It also means that the coolant sensor location becomes a problem, in the centre it isn't giving a true picture.
May be different on a V8 or 4 cylinder where the "front" that the coolant is travelling across is narrower.
This is just my opinion - has anyone tested this?
Just a thought...
Dominic TVRetto said:
If the inlet was not a single pipe in the center, but split into two pipes (one at either end of the head), while retaining the single central exit - would this not solve the "eddying" issue for both heat extraction and true temperature reading? (forcing water from either end towards the centre exit)
Just a thought...
The ele.water pump you can also set on the place of the old mechanically water pump . We used the core plugs of the engine block (NOT HEAD)to spread betterJust a thought...
and equable the coolant so that the cyl.7/8 are not the last which get the hot coolant.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3l0goGWl5mZX1Q3d...
Regards
Gregor
My company car is a Toyota Prius (yes I know 
) that has an electric water pump for the internal combustion engine. Actually it's my third Prius, as you can imagine of a Toyota the reliability is exemplary but I have experienced one electric water pump failure in my 250,000 Prius miles which happened on my first model, this occurred at just 53,000 miles.
Fortunately and thanks to extremely sophisticated on-board diagnostic systems the failing electric water pump was identified during a service and before engine damage occurred, the ECU detected an unusually high amp draw from the pump and duly threw up a fault code.
But we should also remember mechanical water pumps fail too, aside from the common leaks I've seen a couple of examples where the impeller has sheared on the shaft, externally everything looks normal, the belt remains intact and the pulley still turns... but the impeller doesn't.
The audible alarm, LED warning light and the backup systems described by Gregor all seem like good ideas but at the end of the day you are adding complexity, for me one of the attractions in an age of ever more complex cars is a TVR remains a very simple vehicle.
No punn intended but I guess it all boils down to whether you feel the small horsepower and economy advantages of an electric water pump are worth the extra complexity, one this is for sure well maintained Chimaeras (and even Griffiths) don't overheat in standard trim.... so you certainly don't need an electric water pump to solve an overheating problem.
) that has an electric water pump for the internal combustion engine. Actually it's my third Prius, as you can imagine of a Toyota the reliability is exemplary but I have experienced one electric water pump failure in my 250,000 Prius miles which happened on my first model, this occurred at just 53,000 miles. Fortunately and thanks to extremely sophisticated on-board diagnostic systems the failing electric water pump was identified during a service and before engine damage occurred, the ECU detected an unusually high amp draw from the pump and duly threw up a fault code.
But we should also remember mechanical water pumps fail too, aside from the common leaks I've seen a couple of examples where the impeller has sheared on the shaft, externally everything looks normal, the belt remains intact and the pulley still turns... but the impeller doesn't.
The audible alarm, LED warning light and the backup systems described by Gregor all seem like good ideas but at the end of the day you are adding complexity, for me one of the attractions in an age of ever more complex cars is a TVR remains a very simple vehicle.
No punn intended but I guess it all boils down to whether you feel the small horsepower and economy advantages of an electric water pump are worth the extra complexity, one this is for sure well maintained Chimaeras (and even Griffiths) don't overheat in standard trim.... so you certainly don't need an electric water pump to solve an overheating problem.
ChimpOnGas said:
My company car is a Toyota Prius (yes I know) that has an electric water pump for the internal combustion engine. Actually it's my third Prius, as you can imagine of a Toyota the reliability is exemplary but I have experienced one electric water pump failure in my 250,000 Prius miles which happened on my first model, this occurred at just 53,000 miles.
Fortunately and thanks to extremely sophisticated on-board diagnostic systems the failing electric water pump was identified during a service and before engine damage occurred, the ECU detected an unusually high amp draw from the pump and duly threw up a fault code.
But we should also remember mechanical water pumps fail too, aside from the common leaks I've seen a couple of examples where the impeller has sheared on the shaft, externally everything looks normal, the belt remains intact and the pulley still turns... but the impeller doesn't.
The audible alarm, LED warning light and the backup systems described by Gregor all seem like good ideas but at the end of the day you are adding complexity, for me one of the attractions in an age of ever more complex cars is a TVR remains a very simple vehicle.
No punn intended but I guess it all boils down to whether you feel the small horsepower and economy advantages of an electric water pump are worth the extra complexity, one this is for sure well maintained Chimaeras (and even Griffiths) don't overheat in standard trim.... so you certainly don't need an electric water pump to solve an overheating problem.
I agree with you that without reason or defect it would be nonsense to exchange the waterpump. Fortunately and thanks to extremely sophisticated on-board diagnostic systems the failing electric water pump was identified during a service and before engine damage occurred, the ECU detected an unusually high amp draw from the pump and duly threw up a fault code.
But we should also remember mechanical water pumps fail too, aside from the common leaks I've seen a couple of examples where the impeller has sheared on the shaft, externally everything looks normal, the belt remains intact and the pulley still turns... but the impeller doesn't.
The audible alarm, LED warning light and the backup systems described by Gregor all seem like good ideas but at the end of the day you are adding complexity, for me one of the attractions in an age of ever more complex cars is a TVR remains a very simple vehicle.
No punn intended but I guess it all boils down to whether you feel the small horsepower and economy advantages of an electric water pump are worth the extra complexity, one this is for sure well maintained Chimaeras (and even Griffiths) don't overheat in standard trim.... so you certainly don't need an electric water pump to solve an overheating problem.
But we speak dnot only about the advantages of electrical water-pumps which are manifold there is also the different of the "water - flow - conception" !
Longitudinal flow opposite to cross flow. To improve the temperature - profile for the last cylinder is no other way if the engine has to work on/in upper
speed range or/and pressure/heat loads (turbo). Temperature problems by the last cylinders 7/8 or by speed 6 mostly on 6 are not so realy. On one V12 6.0ltr
XJR-S of one client of us comes this by his first 500km with his "new" car.
Certainly that other factors are also to consider.
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