Connector identity
Discussion
Hi
I tried this morning to shake / flex the cables near the ECU while the engine was running to see if I could try and force the intermittent cutout / misfire that I get, but found nothing, took the car for a drive and after about 5 miles it started running very poorly, stopped for petrol and that was it, no restart until I left it for 30 minutes, I tried again later and it did exactly the same, so moving the cables around has had an effect even if it's negative, does anyone know how to open up the big ECU connector to check the pins?, also I see an odd looking blue connector which I don't understand, any ideas?
I tried this morning to shake / flex the cables near the ECU while the engine was running to see if I could try and force the intermittent cutout / misfire that I get, but found nothing, took the car for a drive and after about 5 miles it started running very poorly, stopped for petrol and that was it, no restart until I left it for 30 minutes, I tried again later and it did exactly the same, so moving the cables around has had an effect even if it's negative, does anyone know how to open up the big ECU connector to check the pins?, also I see an odd looking blue connector which I don't understand, any ideas?
These might help ....
The blue connector does not mate to anything and are just part of the original landrover loom that are terminated/joined there.
The ecu plug has a hooked end to locate it and is just pushed home to lock it into place , to remove from the ecu push the spring clip/tab holding it in place and pull up on the plug it should come free.
Once ecu/plug seperated there are a couple of small screws holding the plug in the shroud, from memory there is a rubber gasket around the plug/inside the shroud which needs removing to get at the screws, once apart it should be easy to check out the pins etc.
The blue connector does not mate to anything and are just part of the original landrover loom that are terminated/joined there.
The ecu plug has a hooked end to locate it and is just pushed home to lock it into place , to remove from the ecu push the spring clip/tab holding it in place and pull up on the plug it should come free.
Once ecu/plug seperated there are a couple of small screws holding the plug in the shroud, from memory there is a rubber gasket around the plug/inside the shroud which needs removing to get at the screws, once apart it should be easy to check out the pins etc.
Edited by ukdj on Saturday 18th June 21:34
Thanks ukdj, that's very helpful.
Things have got worse now, I was looking to connect a 12v led to the output of the fuel pump relay, connected it up, went to test it but got nothing, the supply to the relay contact is good but no output, it's not clear if the relay is energising, but I get no 12v output, the engine does turn over though, does anyone have an Elec circuit drawing for this area on a 95 Chimaera 500?
Hopefully tomorrow I can get someone to assist with turning the key while I measure stuff.
Paul
Things have got worse now, I was looking to connect a 12v led to the output of the fuel pump relay, connected it up, went to test it but got nothing, the supply to the relay contact is good but no output, it's not clear if the relay is energising, but I get no 12v output, the engine does turn over though, does anyone have an Elec circuit drawing for this area on a 95 Chimaera 500?
Hopefully tomorrow I can get someone to assist with turning the key while I measure stuff.
Paul
This may match what you have but no promises.
Have not found a circuit yet that matches my car so am in the process of doing my own diagrams.
This is one of the pages.
Steve
ETA Looks OK until you try and zoom in and read the wire colours or pin numbers.
PM me and I can send you a PDF or somesuch.
Steve
Have not found a circuit yet that matches my car so am in the process of doing my own diagrams.
This is one of the pages.
Steve
ETA Looks OK until you try and zoom in and read the wire colours or pin numbers.
PM me and I can send you a PDF or somesuch.
Steve
Edited by Steve_D on Saturday 18th June 23:41
Hold the main 12v/ecu relay in one hand and the fuel relay in the other and get someone to turn the ignition on/de-immobilise the car, you should feel the main relay click on followed by the fuel relay click on then a few secondes later the fuel relay click off.
Edited by ukdj on Sunday 19th June 00:26
Does anyone know how the connections are in that blue connector?
I have been taking a look at my cables to the pump relay, as the diagram above i have a constant 12v on pin 30, but not on pin 86, i need the ignition plus immobiliser on before i get power, the cable as shown is coloured W/G and i see 2 cables of that description in the blue connector, in the picture they are the bottom right and the 4 to the left, is this connector SK2/4 as in the diagram?
Pin 85 appears to go to the ECU as per the diagram, so its somewhere near, but i appear to be switching on both sides of the coil, crazy electric system.
One other point, i found i had 12v on both W/G cables in the blue connector along with that complete block of 8 (2x4) at that end of the connector, they all went to zero when i switched off the ignition, but it was getting too dark to do much more after that
Paul
I have been taking a look at my cables to the pump relay, as the diagram above i have a constant 12v on pin 30, but not on pin 86, i need the ignition plus immobiliser on before i get power, the cable as shown is coloured W/G and i see 2 cables of that description in the blue connector, in the picture they are the bottom right and the 4 to the left, is this connector SK2/4 as in the diagram?
Pin 85 appears to go to the ECU as per the diagram, so its somewhere near, but i appear to be switching on both sides of the coil, crazy electric system.
One other point, i found i had 12v on both W/G cables in the blue connector along with that complete block of 8 (2x4) at that end of the connector, they all went to zero when i switched off the ignition, but it was getting too dark to do much more after that
Paul
Paul this may help:
http://www.bertram-hill.com/fuel-pump-schematic.ht...
On my car, 1996 500, only the starter motor solenoid and the ignition amp are inmmobilised although there are spare contacts on the Meta to isolate a third circuit.
It looks as though you also have the fuel pump immobilised as you are only getting +12v on pin 86 with both ignition and Immobiliser in circuit.
The blue socket is I believe part of the original Land Rover loom and not used on TVR's, so probably not worth investigating.
http://www.bertram-hill.com/fuel-pump-schematic.ht...
On my car, 1996 500, only the starter motor solenoid and the ignition amp are inmmobilised although there are spare contacts on the Meta to isolate a third circuit.
It looks as though you also have the fuel pump immobilised as you are only getting +12v on pin 86 with both ignition and Immobiliser in circuit.
The blue socket is I believe part of the original Land Rover loom and not used on TVR's, so probably not worth investigating.
copied from another thread: If your problem is the fuel pump losing its supply it could be a poor connection on one of the several plug/sockets in the circuit.
"In addition to the ones in the foot-well there is a plug/socket behind the nearside B post, this can also get wet and is a common cause of intermittent problems.
This may help" courtesy of Lou.
Not found this connector yet but I do have an article from sprint magazine that shows it. I will post up a description of it when I have found the mag
"In addition to the ones in the foot-well there is a plug/socket behind the nearside B post, this can also get wet and is a common cause of intermittent problems.
This may help" courtesy of Lou.
Not found this connector yet but I do have an article from sprint magazine that shows it. I will post up a description of it when I have found the mag
Swap the ECU and FP relays in their respective sockets - if the problem follows the relay then the relay will be the problem (worth changing every couple of years as consumables). The fact it seems to be temperature dependent might imply an immobiliser related issue - a manifestation of the infamous hot start problem. That usually affects the feed to the starter solenoid however, such that the motor will not crank.
I mentioned in the thread about my car that it is worth checking the two lucas resistors in the loom near the coil. One of these feeds the engine RPM back to the ECU and if this is lost the ECU cuts the fuel relay.
Just highlighting because it is a component of the system that is rarely mentioned yet seems very likely as in my case to cause heat related non start problems.
Just highlighting because it is a component of the system that is rarely mentioned yet seems very likely as in my case to cause heat related non start problems.
Paulprior said:
Does anyone know how the connections are in that blue connector?
I have been taking a look at my cables to the pump relay, as the diagram above i have a constant 12v on pin 30, but not on pin 86, i need the ignition plus immobiliser on before i get power, the cable as shown is coloured W/G and i see 2 cables of that description in the blue connector, in the picture they are the bottom right and the 4 to the left, is this connector SK2/4 as in the diagram?
Pin 85 appears to go to the ECU as per the diagram, so its somewhere near, but i appear to be switching on both sides of the coil, crazy electric system.
One other point, i found i had 12v on both W/G cables in the blue connector along with that complete block of 8 (2x4) at that end of the connector, they all went to zero when i switched off the ignition, but it was getting too dark to do much more after that
Paul
There are two connector rails inside that allow various wires in the loom to connect to each other. This is in preference to trying to spice wires together. The fuel pump wiring does go through the connector, and if it gets damp it can corrode and go open circuit. You can release the cover to expose to loopback connectors and check for corrosion.I have been taking a look at my cables to the pump relay, as the diagram above i have a constant 12v on pin 30, but not on pin 86, i need the ignition plus immobiliser on before i get power, the cable as shown is coloured W/G and i see 2 cables of that description in the blue connector, in the picture they are the bottom right and the 4 to the left, is this connector SK2/4 as in the diagram?
Pin 85 appears to go to the ECU as per the diagram, so its somewhere near, but i appear to be switching on both sides of the coil, crazy electric system.
One other point, i found i had 12v on both W/G cables in the blue connector along with that complete block of 8 (2x4) at that end of the connector, they all went to zero when i switched off the ignition, but it was getting too dark to do much more after that
Paul
Thanks for the suggestions above, i hadnt thought about the resistors or their connections, i have seen one inside the footwell and one somewhere in the engine bay, i will try looking tonight.
Blitz, so its possible that the block of 8 are linked internally then?, do you know the breakdown of the internal links to save me breaking it open, it looks to be in very good condition along with the connectors, im more interested in trying to understand my electrical circuit so i can check things logically rather taking random guesses at problems
Thanks
Paul
Blitz, so its possible that the block of 8 are linked internally then?, do you know the breakdown of the internal links to save me breaking it open, it looks to be in very good condition along with the connectors, im more interested in trying to understand my electrical circuit so i can check things logically rather taking random guesses at problems
Thanks
Paul
You have 2 "bus bar" type connectors running length ways inside- so the wires on each are all joined together along the long side on each side. I think one side is an earth, but I dont know the other off the top of my head. In terms of connectivity, the bus bar connectors have small spade type connectors slid onto them, so its not a sealed joint if water gets in there. Of course plastic does not corrode on the outside and the plug looks good. 
Not sure about the busbars running full length as i measured 12v on the first 4 of each side to give a block of eight, but 0v on the others, i will check again tonight while its still light and see if i can open the connector to see, it just looked like a sealed item, if they are spade connectors then i guess i can just pull the cables out?
I meant that the cable / connector area looked in good non corroded condition, i would definitely have a problem if the plastic case was corroded
I do have some electrical experience, but a lack of a diagram and some circuits being different to what some people consider standard pratice is rather challenging
Paul
I meant that the cable / connector area looked in good non corroded condition, i would definitely have a problem if the plastic case was corroded
I do have some electrical experience, but a lack of a diagram and some circuits being different to what some people consider standard pratice is rather challenging
Paul
Hi Blitz Knowing your knowledge of 14CUX,does loss of the RPM signal to the ECU cause it to shut down or cut the fuel relay as suggested above? I am trying to figure out which sensor loss will cause a total cut and which will cause the ECU to go into limp mode? Mine currently cuts out at random. some times it will bump start other times I have to coast to a stop and restart using the starter. I can replicate the cut out symptom by turning off the fuel pump with ecumate. turn the pump on again and away she goes. Thanks in advance
I switched it off for a couple of seconds and it feels like a bad misfire, then tried turning it off for 30 seconds ish at 60 and it's like putting brakes on. Rev counter still works tho as blitz said it would if it the cut out is due to fuel. It feels to me just like the cutting out fault which makes me think it is fuel related. If try this make sure you do so a quiet road. :-)
nickb134 said:
Hi Blitz Knowing your knowledge of 14CUX,does loss of the RPM signal to the ECU cause it to shut down or cut the fuel relay as suggested above? I am trying to figure out which sensor loss will cause a total cut and which will cause the ECU to go into limp mode? Mine currently cuts out at random. some times it will bump start other times I have to coast to a stop and restart using the starter. I can replicate the cut out symptom by turning off the fuel pump with ecumate. turn the pump on again and away she goes. Thanks in advance
I did only ever experience problems when it was idling which was probably due to the heat build up. I experimented today with my repaired resistor and unplugging it killed the fuel pump straight away. It only takes a few minutes to check them with a meter. Mine read open circuit but was probably just passing enough AC to work most the time. You can swap the two over as the other one feeds the rev counter. Hi dogbucket
Any chance of a oicture showing where you found these resistors, i found a 3.9k one near the ECU but couldnt find anything near the coil
I also tried to open up my blue connector to see whats inside, but i dont see any joint to prise open, using a meter the internals are not very uniform, some were grouped together x 4, some x5, and 1 on its own
Thanks
Paul
Any chance of a oicture showing where you found these resistors, i found a 3.9k one near the ECU but couldnt find anything near the coil
I also tried to open up my blue connector to see whats inside, but i dont see any joint to prise open, using a meter the internals are not very uniform, some were grouped together x 4, some x5, and 1 on its own
Thanks
Paul
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