£10k - £12k Chimaera - will this be asking for trouble?
Discussion
QBee said:
Lend me £3000 please Alun, and I will pay you back at £12 a month for two years....
You can tell Alun's not an accountant.....£12 a month is £144 a year, £288 for two years, £2880 for 20 years.
So £2500 plus VAT is 20 years and 10 months at £12 a month.
Probably still worth it for all the smiles it has given you
(stands back to await the torrent of abuse about accountants.....)
And don't add up when your in a hurry,,, You can tell Alun's not an accountant.....£12 a month is £144 a year, £288 for two years, £2880 for 20 years.
So £2500 plus VAT is 20 years and 10 months at £12 a month.
Probably still worth it for all the smiles it has given you
(stands back to await the torrent of abuse about accountants.....)
Add a bloody naught, jeez, if my brain worked I'd only be dangerous,,
Hey it's just a nought,, f
k me it's expensive - scrap that 
Anyway it only cost 2.4 K as I had an offer of £500 for my CUX incl dissi,, but I didn't want to sell it!
I used to do all sorts of adding calcs building glass structures, I wonder how I managed it sometimes ?
What I don't get is someone with a perfect Tvr saying how expensive my set up was yet fired up his car and misfired out the place! Mad!
As you well know Anthony I'm skint and my investment is meant as a long time goal that I've always wanted to do,,
Now stop talking sense and let's get out there and burn fuel.
S11Steve said:
Check what you get with Classicline though - my cover includes breakdown (UK & Europe) track day cover and various other bits that elude me right now.
Yeah it did include breakdown, but I have a decent RAC membership covering me for any car I am driving/passengering in (I genuinely can't fault the RAC- have been a member for 7 years and they have always been first class), and the track day cover wasn't included in the quote and is not something I am too fussed about just yet anyway. Not to mention the excess was substantially higher too.Perhaps I just spoke to the wrong person there!
No, you spoke to the right person.
Last year Classicline were trumping most other quotes.
This year FJ have been giving remarkably cheap quotes.
That's why I mentioned them.
I will be reviewing at renewal, but I do value the track day cover I get from Classicline.
To me it's worth 2/3rds of the premium.
Even in the normal motor insurance market, this happens every year, when some player or other decides to go after a certain sector of the market. Two years ago it was Iggy Pop. For me he's been trumped this year by the Co-op Green mob.
Last year Classicline were trumping most other quotes.
This year FJ have been giving remarkably cheap quotes.
That's why I mentioned them.
I will be reviewing at renewal, but I do value the track day cover I get from Classicline.
To me it's worth 2/3rds of the premium.
Even in the normal motor insurance market, this happens every year, when some player or other decides to go after a certain sector of the market. Two years ago it was Iggy Pop. For me he's been trumped this year by the Co-op Green mob.
plfrench said:
Try Adrianflux too. I've got mine on a 3k policy for £247 and that's only a £100 excess. No trackdays but they can be added on a pay as you go basis and no breakdown.
It's SDP only. I could have added commuting but didn't ask how much it would be.
Funnily enough my quote With FJ was only slightly more than that, again with a £100 excess, and including commuting use. Seems a billy bargain. It's SDP only. I could have added commuting but didn't ask how much it would be.
Squirrelofwoe said:
plfrench said:
Try Adrianflux too. I've got mine on a 3k policy for £247 and that's only a £100 excess. No trackdays but they can be added on a pay as you go basis and no breakdown.
It's SDP only. I could have added commuting but didn't ask how much it would be.
Funnily enough my quote With FJ was only slightly more than that, again with a £100 excess, and including commuting use. Seems a billy bargain. It's SDP only. I could have added commuting but didn't ask how much it would be.
QBee said:
No, you spoke to the right person.
Last year Classicline were trumping most other quotes.
This year FJ have been giving remarkably cheap quotes.
That's why I mentioned them.
I will be reviewing at renewal, but I do value the track day cover I get from Classicline.
To me it's worth 2/3rds of the premium.
Even in the normal motor insurance market, this happens every year, when some player or other decides to go after a certain sector of the market. Two years ago it was Iggy Pop. For me he's been trumped this year by the Co-op Green mob.
I saw a very life-like statue of Iggy Pop at the Royal Academy today. Last year Classicline were trumping most other quotes.
This year FJ have been giving remarkably cheap quotes.
That's why I mentioned them.
I will be reviewing at renewal, but I do value the track day cover I get from Classicline.
To me it's worth 2/3rds of the premium.
Even in the normal motor insurance market, this happens every year, when some player or other decides to go after a certain sector of the market. Two years ago it was Iggy Pop. For me he's been trumped this year by the Co-op Green mob.
Ok, as you were ......
Hope all is good Anthony
QBee said:
For a mere yoof in a dodgy line of work, fast car and no driving experience, that's not bad
I'll take whatever age-related compliments I can get, however thinly veiled! I did find it amusing on the phone to Classicline when the lady asked me if I'd had any prior experience with RWD sports cars before, after listing out all those I'd owned/driven she had to go back ask me what a Starion was... Perhaps that's why my quote was so high- she thought I was making up car names!
M3ax said:
All good. Spending a lot more time client facing in London these days. Still look out for you when I'm up your way. But back on topic - that car you helped someone buy last year seems like a bargain now . Good luck to the OP and I'm sure there's still good stuff out there.
You might be talking about me. I'm still chuffed and am so glad I bought the first one I saw.Thanks again Anthony
Topper_Harley said:
M3ax said:
All good. Spending a lot more time client facing in London these days. Still look out for you when I'm up your way. But back on topic - that car you helped someone buy last year seems like a bargain now . Good luck to the OP and I'm sure there's still good stuff out there.
You might be talking about me. I'm still chuffed and am so glad I bought the first one I saw.Thanks again Anthony
So I'm going back to test drive the Chimaera soon, are there any particular things I should be looking out for on the drive, aside from the usual things when trying a second-hand car?
I'm making a mental list (well an actual list but I'm hoping to have it committed to memory in the next couple of hours!), so far I've only got as far as "keeping a check on how the temperature behaves, both while driving and after leaving car to idle for a bit afterwards".
It's had new outriggers, shocks, clutch, hood etc recently and all of the paperwork/history seems to stack up. MOT history is almost alarmingly clean, with just 2 fails, 1 due to incorrect number plate and 1 due to headlamp position and a couple of advisories for worn tyres and brake pads way back in 2006...
If anyone else can think of anything else I should be looking at, asking about then for the next couple of hours I'm all ears!
I'm making a mental list (well an actual list but I'm hoping to have it committed to memory in the next couple of hours!), so far I've only got as far as "keeping a check on how the temperature behaves, both while driving and after leaving car to idle for a bit afterwards".
It's had new outriggers, shocks, clutch, hood etc recently and all of the paperwork/history seems to stack up. MOT history is almost alarmingly clean, with just 2 fails, 1 due to incorrect number plate and 1 due to headlamp position and a couple of advisories for worn tyres and brake pads way back in 2006...
If anyone else can think of anything else I should be looking at, asking about then for the next couple of hours I'm all ears!
Edited by Squirrelofwoe on Wednesday 20th July 16:07
Inspect the radiator for corrosion especially at the bottom.
Look for oil leaks around the engine. Is the engine oil clean on the dipstick?
Check the steering rack for play, leaks and noise from the pump.
On start up and under acceleration watch for bluish smoke - oil burning.
Check for oil leaks from the oil pump components - driver's side front around the oil filter.
Oil leaks from the engine sump, gearbox and diff.
On a test drive, try and induce drivetrain knocking i.e. on and off the accelerator pedal. If clonking it could be diff bushes or backlash in the diff itself.
While on the drive check the speedo and especially the mileometer as many do not work.
Take hands off the wheel on a flat road and ensure no wandering or pulling.
Ensure she stops in a straight line under some heavy braking.
Keep an eye on the oil pressure - hot and cold at 3,000rpm and at idle - around 50-60 max and 25-30 min.
No overheating even in this hot weather - you can hear the fans cutting in and out.
Ensure every electrical item works as it should.
Tyres ideally of the same make and check the tread.
2 key remotes.
When I bought mine I didn't check any of the above, I was far too excited. Fortunately most of that list was okay and you'd think after owning 65 cars I would do it right. I think I have TVR disease....
Look for oil leaks around the engine. Is the engine oil clean on the dipstick?
Check the steering rack for play, leaks and noise from the pump.
On start up and under acceleration watch for bluish smoke - oil burning.
Check for oil leaks from the oil pump components - driver's side front around the oil filter.
Oil leaks from the engine sump, gearbox and diff.
On a test drive, try and induce drivetrain knocking i.e. on and off the accelerator pedal. If clonking it could be diff bushes or backlash in the diff itself.
While on the drive check the speedo and especially the mileometer as many do not work.
Take hands off the wheel on a flat road and ensure no wandering or pulling.
Ensure she stops in a straight line under some heavy braking.
Keep an eye on the oil pressure - hot and cold at 3,000rpm and at idle - around 50-60 max and 25-30 min.
No overheating even in this hot weather - you can hear the fans cutting in and out.
Ensure every electrical item works as it should.
Tyres ideally of the same make and check the tread.
2 key remotes.
When I bought mine I didn't check any of the above, I was far too excited. Fortunately most of that list was okay and you'd think after owning 65 cars I would do it right. I think I have TVR disease....
Edited by N7GTX on Wednesday 20th July 16:34
N7GTX said:
Inspect the radiator for corrosion especially at the bottom.
Look for oil leaks around the engine. Is the engine oil clean on the dipstick?
Check the steering rack for play, leaks and noise from the pump.
On start up and under acceleration watch for bluish smoke - oil burning.
Check for oil leaks from the oil pump components - driver's side front around the oil filter.
Oil leaks from the engine sump, gearbox and diff.
On a test drive, try and induce drivetrain knocking i.e. on and off the accelerator pedal. If clonking it could be diff bushes or backlash in the diff itself.
While on the drive check the speedo and especially the mileometer as many do not work.
Take hands off the wheel on a flat road and ensure no wandering or pulling.
Ensure she stops in a straight line under some heavy braking.
Keep an eye on the oil pressure - hot and cold at 3,000rpm and at idle - around 50-60 max and 25-30 min.
No overheating even in this hot weather - you can hear the fans cutting in and out.
Ensure every electrical item works as it should.
Tyres ideally of the same make and check the tread.
take your friend armed with a clip board and the above list. and if he has ticked them all off. and you also have a big grin on your face then thats the car for you
2 key remotes.
When I bought mine I didn't check any of the above, I was far too excited. Fortunately most of that list was okay and you'd think after owning 65 cars I would do it right. I think I have TVR disease....
Look for oil leaks around the engine. Is the engine oil clean on the dipstick?
Check the steering rack for play, leaks and noise from the pump.
On start up and under acceleration watch for bluish smoke - oil burning.
Check for oil leaks from the oil pump components - driver's side front around the oil filter.
Oil leaks from the engine sump, gearbox and diff.
On a test drive, try and induce drivetrain knocking i.e. on and off the accelerator pedal. If clonking it could be diff bushes or backlash in the diff itself.
While on the drive check the speedo and especially the mileometer as many do not work.
Take hands off the wheel on a flat road and ensure no wandering or pulling.
Ensure she stops in a straight line under some heavy braking.
Keep an eye on the oil pressure - hot and cold at 3,000rpm and at idle - around 50-60 max and 25-30 min.
No overheating even in this hot weather - you can hear the fans cutting in and out.
Ensure every electrical item works as it should.
Tyres ideally of the same make and check the tread.
take your friend armed with a clip board and the above list. and if he has ticked them all off. and you also have a big grin on your face then thats the car for you
2 key remotes.
When I bought mine I didn't check any of the above, I was far too excited. Fortunately most of that list was okay and you'd think after owning 65 cars I would do it right. I think I have TVR disease....
Edited by N7GTX on Wednesday 20th July 16:34
My 2 cents is that it would be wise to keep some money in your back pocket for catch-up maintenance. You'll probably find a decent car within your budget, but chances are that at the lower end of the spectrum it might require some work sooner than later. I'm aware this is quite a generic comment for buying second hand cars but unfortunately TVRs can be a bit more temperamental;)
Whilst I got a good deal on my car, it was with the expectation of spending cash to resolve unforseen issues and I wasn't disappointed.
Check the fuel lines for perished rubber.
Ensure the fuel pump primes and then shuts off before starting up.
Find out about the immobiliser -if non-standard, who replaced it and with what.
Good luck!
Check the fuel lines for perished rubber.
Ensure the fuel pump primes and then shuts off before starting up.
Find out about the immobiliser -if non-standard, who replaced it and with what.
Good luck!
And the old chestnut - take the oil filler cap and water filler cap off and check for mayonnaise, as it's a good day for a salad. Do both because you are checking for oil in the water as well as water in the oil. Both have been seen.
I have never seen my oil pressure above 45 psi, more usually about 32 with a warm engine.
I have never seen my oil pressure above 45 psi, more usually about 32 with a warm engine.
My reasoning regards getting car hot and for sometime is that if you have the original immobiliser still in place all that heat will give you an idea if you have hot start problems, the immobiliser usually plays up when it's hot and doesn't allow you to start the car( very annoying at a petrol station for instance! )
Heat is normally associated with a number of electrical reliability issues that can plague some cars.
Heat is normally associated with a number of electrical reliability issues that can plague some cars.
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