S1 Exhaust rubber mounts
Discussion
those are 'mini' exhaust bobbins(can be quite weak) and not the correct rubbers for the support adjacent to the centre box - they are rubber doughnuts with a bolt through. The mounting is the welded brackets on the chassis with a 25mm hole. That is th main support and the rear support is the 'mini' bobbin type.
Of course every S could be different !
Of course every S could be different !
phillpot said:
Le TVR said:
Thanks for that but they are quite different
Yes, because you've got the wrong ones 
http://tvr-parts.com/tvr-parts/part-details/tvr-03...
magpies said:
Of course every S could be different !
Bingo!
They ARE the correct type of rubber for the car - it's a very early S1. That's what they used to have. They moved to the Nissan-style rubbers used on all S-Series models, as well as Chimaeras and Griffiths later in 1988.
Sorry they've failed Pete. You could adapt it to fit the later type by enlarging the mounting hole to accept the later rubber insert.
Sorry they've failed Pete. You could adapt it to fit the later type by enlarging the mounting hole to accept the later rubber insert.
Definitely NOT mini bobbins! The exhaust is about 5 times as heavy! Sounds like the temporary mod you have made is far more like the originals. The correct arrangement, at each mounting, is a pair of thick annular rings of poly rubber (the originals are rather more dome shaped), one either side of the mounting plate, with an 8mm bolt through, plate washers and an interference thread nut (double nuts is easier). The original TVR part number is S28S10024.
It is fairly easy to get hold of exhaust hanging strap about 6mm thick. Cut and drill 4 pieces (i.e. use two thicknesses) about 30mm square for each side of the exhaust box. Not quite as good as they are a little too rigid but very effective.
Early 2.8 cars had a different mounting, not unlike the mini bobbin in appearance but bigger and stronger with a through bolt with a single rubber cushion bonded round it. Part O35S150A. These were replaced with the, better, later type. As far as I am aware the chassis mountings did not change, only the mounting rubber. As far as I am aware the earlier type is not available althought it is possible it is the same as that used on the earlier 2.8 'wedge' cars.
It is fairly easy to get hold of exhaust hanging strap about 6mm thick. Cut and drill 4 pieces (i.e. use two thicknesses) about 30mm square for each side of the exhaust box. Not quite as good as they are a little too rigid but very effective.
Early 2.8 cars had a different mounting, not unlike the mini bobbin in appearance but bigger and stronger with a through bolt with a single rubber cushion bonded round it. Part O35S150A. These were replaced with the, better, later type. As far as I am aware the chassis mountings did not change, only the mounting rubber. As far as I am aware the earlier type is not available althought it is possible it is the same as that used on the earlier 2.8 'wedge' cars.
The chassis mountings only changed as much as the mounting hole on the very early car took an M8 (or whatever the devil-worshipping inchy equivalent!) stud. Most S' obviously use the large bore (18mm I think) hole with the domed rubber inserts and a single M10 bolt passing through with a Nyloc on the end and a couple of penny washers.
On this car (and one other very early S1 I've done) they ran cotton reel-type mounts instead. I assume they switched the design to the Nissan ones as the cotton reel ones tended to sheer off (though hopefully not as early as this!)
These were MGB ones, sourced from an MGB specialist, but converting to the later design might be something I suggest to any customers in the future with the early type. Retro-fitting the later ones into the mount either side of the silencer wouldn't be difficult.
On this car (and one other very early S1 I've done) they ran cotton reel-type mounts instead. I assume they switched the design to the Nissan ones as the cotton reel ones tended to sheer off (though hopefully not as early as this!)
These were MGB ones, sourced from an MGB specialist, but converting to the later design might be something I suggest to any customers in the future with the early type. Retro-fitting the later ones into the mount either side of the silencer wouldn't be difficult.
Kitchski said:
a single M10 bolt passing through with a Nyloc .
Hi Richard, personally I would stick with the M8. Just that this does make it less likely that there will be metal to metal contact, less likely to transmit quite as much 'noise', and provides just a bit more movement if the exhaust takes a bash? 
Nylocs should indeed be fine instead of the original interference fit nut. Dont think they would get hot enough to melt. I did use a nylock by mistake on a front clamp, nice smell!!!;)
greymrj said:
Hi Richard, personally I would stick with the M8. Just that this does make it less likely that there will be metal to metal contact, less likely to transmit quite as much 'noise', and provides just a bit more movement if the exhaust takes a bash?
Nylocs should indeed be fine instead of the original interference fit nut. Dont think they would get hot enough to melt. I did use a nylock by mistake on a front clamp, nice smell!!!;)
Both the rubbers and the brackets TVR fitted are designed for use with M10 bolts, though. If you use a thinner bolt, you run the risk of the rubber 'unseating' at the interface between male and female sides, especially on the S as the rubbers tend to get pulled this way and that.Nylocs should indeed be fine instead of the original interference fit nut. Dont think they would get hot enough to melt. I did use a nylock by mistake on a front clamp, nice smell!!!;)
Nylocs are fine, they don't get anywhere near hot enough to melt.
phillpot said:
Le TVR said:
Thanks for that but they are quite different
Yes, because you've got the wrong ones Kitchski said:
an M8 (or whatever the devil-worshipping inchy equivalent!) stud.
5/16" unf or unc 
Kitchski said:
Nylocs are fine, they don't get anywhere near hot enough to melt.
Aerotight if you have any concerns 
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