Exhaust Manifolds studs or bolts

Exhaust Manifolds studs or bolts

Author
Discussion

ProjectChimaera

Original Poster:

197 posts

112 months

Tuesday 26th July 2016
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Whilst I've got the heads off need to make a decision about exhaust manifolds. Is it best to use bolts again or did I read that another option is to slot the manifolds and use studs with nuts instead? Also am I looking for stainless? Any help greatly appreciated also any recommended suppliers?

phillpot

17,105 posts

182 months

Tuesday 26th July 2016
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You can't "slot" the top and bottom holes (could you slot them sideways) scratchchin


Is there enough clearance to get manifolds on/off with studs, seem to recall it's quite tight around there?

s p a c e m a n

10,752 posts

147 months

Tuesday 26th July 2016
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Stud the bottom row and then slot the bottom holes. You can then stick nuts and washers one turn on the studs and slide the manifold into position putting bolts into the top hole. Makes it ten times easier removing them too because you only need to remove the bolts and then get a turn or two on the bottom nuts to slide the manifolds off. thumbup

ProjectChimaera

Original Poster:

197 posts

112 months

Tuesday 26th July 2016
quotequote all
Thanks gents, Spaceman that sounds very sensible will almost certainly go with it.I never want to experience getting those sods off ever again with just bolts in!

ClassiChimi

12,424 posts

148 months

Tuesday 26th July 2016
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ProjectChimaera said:
Thanks gents, Spaceman that sounds very sensible will almost certainly go with it.I never want to experience getting those sods off ever again with just bolts in!
laugh I think you get a medal from the Tvr hard man Trophy cabinet for getting them babies off,,, hold on a minute,, body on or off???

jazzdude

900 posts

151 months

Tuesday 26th July 2016
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I slotted my manifolds and used ARP bolts with nordlock washers.

It was supposed to be easier but putting the smaller headed bolts in the holes without the manifold was also a nightmare, especially the back ones.

I have had the manifolds off before with the bolts with the normal heads and I think the larger size was easier for me. If you have a bunch of saveloys for fingers I would say stick with the original bolts but slot the bottom holes.

bobfather

11,171 posts

254 months

Tuesday 26th July 2016
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jazzdude said:
I slotted my manifolds and used ARP bolts with nordlock washers.

It was supposed to be easier but putting the smaller headed bolts in the holes without the manifold was also a nightmare, especially the back ones.

I have had the manifolds off before with the bolts with the normal heads and I think the larger size was easier for me. If you have a bunch of saveloys for fingers I would say stick with the original bolts but slot the bottom holes.
ARP bolts are too hard for the nordlock washers. Nordlocks work by biting into both surfaces. They can get a grip on the manifolds but the ARPs just slip on them. I used a centre pop to roughen the ARP flange surfaces, that finally stopped mine from loosening. There's some photos on PH that I posted last winter

jojackson4

3,026 posts

136 months

Wednesday 27th July 2016
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Did the same as Bob
No problem and are still tight

bobfather

11,171 posts

254 months

Wednesday 27th July 2016
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jojackson4 said:
Did the same as Bob
No problem and are still tight
biggrin

Here's the previous discussion

dogbucket

1,200 posts

200 months

Thursday 28th July 2016
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You can get stainless steel nordlocks which then work with stainless steel bolts

bobfather

11,171 posts

254 months

Thursday 28th July 2016
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dogbucket said:
You can get stainless steel nordlocks which then work with stainless steel bolts
In theory, but there are many grades of stainless steel with different physical properties. What is important is that the bolts are required to be relatively softer. The ARP's are coated so the malleability of the surface is also dependant on the depth of the coating. Buying similar material doesn't guarantee anything