Engine rebuild
Discussion
As I have not done this before, but there has to be a first time for everything, I may need some tips from those who have.
I'm going to be ordering the parts shortly and need to know if I'm missing anything. So here goes:
- Camshaft (Kent H218), followers, springs (single or double? Single means less wear. Double eliminates valve float at high rpm), timing chain and sprockets. Cam bearings already fitted and crank polished.
- Piston rings Std 4.6
- Valve stem seals
- Gasket set, top and bottom
- assembly lube
- Big end bearings
- Main caps/bearings
- Oil gallery plugs (I'm not going to bother with core plugs. If they're not leaking why change?)
- Front crank seal
- Main cap & cylinder head bolts. Sump bolt.
- Thermostat
Anything missing?
Thanks
Cad
I'm going to be ordering the parts shortly and need to know if I'm missing anything. So here goes:
- Camshaft (Kent H218), followers, springs (single or double? Single means less wear. Double eliminates valve float at high rpm), timing chain and sprockets. Cam bearings already fitted and crank polished.
- Piston rings Std 4.6
- Valve stem seals
- Gasket set, top and bottom
- assembly lube
- Big end bearings
- Main caps/bearings
- Oil gallery plugs (I'm not going to bother with core plugs. If they're not leaking why change?)
- Front crank seal
- Main cap & cylinder head bolts. Sump bolt.
- Thermostat
Anything missing?
Thanks
Cad
Boosted LS1 said:
Make sure you've got the rear crank seal and 'cross' seals.
Boosted LS1 said:
Have you thought about an ARP stud set for the heads?
Nope. I'm trying to keep to a budget that is already getting away from itself. So just replacing with OE. Are ARP's really worth the outlay?It's a 1997 4.5. Are you saying I can re-use the head and main cap bolts? I thought you had to change them, but the rest you can re-use.
On a different note - do you know much about the Kent H218 cam? My question is, Kent are supplying it with single valve springs. But there were double on the TVR 435 cam that was in there originally. Also, is it safe to assume you can't use the spring retainers/top caps if I go with the Kent single springs?
On a different note - do you know much about the Kent H218 cam? My question is, Kent are supplying it with single valve springs. But there were double on the TVR 435 cam that was in there originally. Also, is it safe to assume you can't use the spring retainers/top caps if I go with the Kent single springs?
caduceus said:
It's a 1997 4.5. Are you saying I can re-use the head and main cap bolts? I thought you had to change them, but the rest you can re-use.
On a different note - do you know much about the Kent H218 cam? My question is, Kent are supplying it with single valve springs. But there were double on the TVR 435 cam that was in there originally. Also, is it safe to assume you can't use the spring retainers/top caps if I go with the Kent single springs?
If your engine has stretch head bolts then don't reuse them. As for the cam, I'd definately use the springs and retainers that Kent offer. On a different note - do you know much about the Kent H218 cam? My question is, Kent are supplying it with single valve springs. But there were double on the TVR 435 cam that was in there originally. Also, is it safe to assume you can't use the spring retainers/top caps if I go with the Kent single springs?
ITVRI said:
You've probably already sorted your engineering and sound like your on a tight budget but I would seriously consider getting top hat liners fitted. At around £600+ they are an expensive part of a budget build but good insurance especially if the engine has overheated in the past.
^^^this^^^ especially that your building a 4.6, they do like to slip liners, i had one go in my 4.6 HSE Range Rover. had it top hatted and apart from a HG failure its been good as gold for 70,000 miles
ITVRI said:
You've probably already sorted your engineering and sound like your on a tight budget but I would seriously consider getting top hat liners fitted. At around £600+ they are an expensive part of a budget build but good insurance especially if the engine has overheated in the past.
Too late for that course of action. I've already paid Gosnays Engineering to fit a new liner in cylinder 7 (because I didn't clean out the little bit of coolant whilst storing the engine during chassis work,etc.) for £282. So I really don't want to pay to have it removed. But top hatting is food for thought if I refresh another one in the future.What miles has the engine on it, clutch seems like a no brainier if it's done over 50,000 miles and a keeper.
My old clutch plate wasn't badly worn but a full new clutch shows me the old one slipped very slightly under full power which completely defeats the object, but barely noticeable most of the time.
My old clutch plate wasn't badly worn but a full new clutch shows me the old one slipped very slightly under full power which completely defeats the object, but barely noticeable most of the time.
ClassiChimi said:
What miles has the engine on it
44k. To be honest there was no sign of slippage or judder when I drove it last. I'll check the S/H and see if there is a record of it being changed. If not, then as you say, it might be worth doing as it's apart. I'll post a pic of how much material is left on the plate. Maybe someone on here will be able to say whether there's loads of meat left or not.
blitzracing said:
Are the camshaft bearings replaceable? Just a thought with a new cam.
Yes they are. A visual usually confirms if they're ok or naff. If they're down into the copper then they're naff. If the cam spins with zero friction they're naff. That said, most cam bearings get a relatively easy life so I'd expect the OP's to be good given his mileage.Gassing Station | Chimaera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff