Engine rebuild

Engine rebuild

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Discussion

caduceus

Original Poster:

6,071 posts

266 months

Thursday 18th August 2016
quotequote all
As I have not done this before, but there has to be a first time for everything, I may need some tips from those who have.
I'm going to be ordering the parts shortly and need to know if I'm missing anything. So here goes:

- Camshaft (Kent H218), followers, springs (single or double? Single means less wear. Double eliminates valve float at high rpm), timing chain and sprockets. Cam bearings already fitted and crank polished.
- Piston rings Std 4.6
- Valve stem seals
- Gasket set, top and bottom
- assembly lube
- Big end bearings
- Main caps/bearings
- Oil gallery plugs (I'm not going to bother with core plugs. If they're not leaking why change?)
- Front crank seal
- Main cap & cylinder head bolts. Sump bolt.
- Thermostat

Anything missing?

Thanks
Cad

Boosted LS1

21,185 posts

260 months

Thursday 18th August 2016
quotequote all
Make sure you've got the rear crank seal and 'cross' seals. Have you thought about an ARP stud set for the heads?

caduceus

Original Poster:

6,071 posts

266 months

Thursday 18th August 2016
quotequote all
Boosted LS1 said:
Make sure you've got the rear crank seal and 'cross' seals.
smile

Boosted LS1 said:
Have you thought about an ARP stud set for the heads?
Nope. I'm trying to keep to a budget that is already getting away from itself. So just replacing with OE. Are ARP's really worth the outlay?

Boosted LS1

21,185 posts

260 months

Thursday 18th August 2016
quotequote all
Stock bolts are reusable if it's not a late engine and you don't need the ARP's. That said, they will give you higher clamping loads. If you're on a budget you can manage without them.

caduceus

Original Poster:

6,071 posts

266 months

Thursday 18th August 2016
quotequote all
It's a 1997 4.5. Are you saying I can re-use the head and main cap bolts? confused I thought you had to change them, but the rest you can re-use.

On a different note - do you know much about the Kent H218 cam? My question is, Kent are supplying it with single valve springs. But there were double on the TVR 435 cam that was in there originally. Also, is it safe to assume you can't use the spring retainers/top caps if I go with the Kent single springs?

Sardonicus

18,958 posts

221 months

Thursday 18th August 2016
quotequote all
Renew the oil pump gears wink I wouldn't use yield/stretch head bolts twice frown

Boosted LS1

21,185 posts

260 months

Thursday 18th August 2016
quotequote all
caduceus said:
It's a 1997 4.5. Are you saying I can re-use the head and main cap bolts? confused I thought you had to change them, but the rest you can re-use.

On a different note - do you know much about the Kent H218 cam? My question is, Kent are supplying it with single valve springs. But there were double on the TVR 435 cam that was in there originally. Also, is it safe to assume you can't use the spring retainers/top caps if I go with the Kent single springs?
If your engine has stretch head bolts then don't reuse them. As for the cam, I'd definately use the springs and retainers that Kent offer.

OleVix

1,438 posts

148 months

Thursday 18th August 2016
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main cap bolts and cross bolts can be reused

ITVRI

196 posts

182 months

Friday 19th August 2016
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You've probably already sorted your engineering and sound like your on a tight budget but I would seriously consider getting top hat liners fitted. At around £600+ they are an expensive part of a budget build but good insurance especially if the engine has overheated in the past.

Discopotatoes

4,101 posts

221 months

Friday 19th August 2016
quotequote all
ITVRI said:
You've probably already sorted your engineering and sound like your on a tight budget but I would seriously consider getting top hat liners fitted. At around £600+ they are an expensive part of a budget build but good insurance especially if the engine has overheated in the past.
^^^this^^^
especially that your building a 4.6, they do like to slip liners, i had one go in my 4.6 HSE Range Rover. had it top hatted and apart from a HG failure its been good as gold for 70,000 miles

caduceus

Original Poster:

6,071 posts

266 months

Friday 19th August 2016
quotequote all
ITVRI said:
You've probably already sorted your engineering and sound like your on a tight budget but I would seriously consider getting top hat liners fitted. At around £600+ they are an expensive part of a budget build but good insurance especially if the engine has overheated in the past.
Too late for that course of action. I've already paid Gosnays Engineering to fit a new liner in cylinder 7 (because I didn't clean out the little bit of coolant whilst storing the engine during chassis work,etc.) for £282. So I really don't want to pay to have it removed. But top hatting is food for thought if I refresh another one in the future.

Boosted LS1

21,185 posts

260 months

Friday 19th August 2016
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Oh, how's the spigot bearing and clutch release bearing?

caduceus

Original Poster:

6,071 posts

266 months

Friday 19th August 2016
quotequote all
Boosted LS1 said:
Oh, how's the spigot bearing and clutch release bearing?
Fook knows. Not even got to the clutch yet frown It's still sitting in the shed, with the fuel tank that needs cutting open and the baffles welding up cry

ClassiChimi

12,424 posts

149 months

Friday 19th August 2016
quotequote all
What miles has the engine on it, clutch seems like a no brainier if it's done over 50,000 miles and a keeper.

My old clutch plate wasn't badly worn but a full new clutch shows me the old one slipped very slightly under full power which completely defeats the object, but barely noticeable most of the time.

Boosted LS1

21,185 posts

260 months

Friday 19th August 2016
quotequote all
caduceus said:
Fook knows. Not even got to the clutch yet frown It's still sitting in the shed, with the fuel tank that needs cutting open and the baffles welding up cry
Ah but the spigot bearing should be embedded in the crank. If it isn't you've got a problem :-)

caduceus

Original Poster:

6,071 posts

266 months

Friday 19th August 2016
quotequote all
ClassiChimi said:
What miles has the engine on it
44k. To be honest there was no sign of slippage or judder when I drove it last. I'll check the S/H and see if there is a record of it being changed. If not, then as you say, it might be worth doing as it's apart.

I'll post a pic of how much material is left on the plate. Maybe someone on here will be able to say whether there's loads of meat left or not.

caduceus

Original Poster:

6,071 posts

266 months

Friday 19th August 2016
quotequote all
Boosted LS1 said:
Ah but the spigot bearing should be embedded in the crank. If it isn't you've got a problem :-)
Ah, yes, it's still in there smile

caduceus

Original Poster:

6,071 posts

266 months

Tuesday 23rd August 2016
quotequote all
With regard to the spigot bearing - how will I know if its worn/in need of change? Or is it so cheap that it's just worth changing as a matter of course?

Thanks

blitzracing

6,387 posts

220 months

Tuesday 23rd August 2016
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Are the camshaft bearings replaceable? Just a thought with a new cam.

Boosted LS1

21,185 posts

260 months

Tuesday 23rd August 2016
quotequote all
blitzracing said:
Are the camshaft bearings replaceable? Just a thought with a new cam.
Yes they are. A visual usually confirms if they're ok or naff. If they're down into the copper then they're naff. If the cam spins with zero friction they're naff. That said, most cam bearings get a relatively easy life so I'd expect the OP's to be good given his mileage.