Bloody typical
Discussion
well TVRs been off road for last four months due to a steering rack overhaul and work commitments, but got it back together and polished up for a car show in area today. Drive to show was ok but a bit lumpy ...but seemed fine when foot pressed down. Put it down to being laid up for a while. Got to car show and parked up and then was asked to reposition the car and .......it wouldn't start again, tried and tried but starter just spinning (bloody typical ) of course usual comments about TVR reliability was heard and how there always in the garage. Really annoying as this car has never missed a beat in 5 years I've owned it. Checked spark at coil lead - good , checked spark at plugs - good , checked fuel pump primed on ignition - good, sprayed WD on connection and earths -ok. Even bought a bag of ice and put on coil........ Nothing. Left car in disgust and enjoyed show and when I came back 2 hrs later I tried again and after 30 seconds of spinning it fired up. Drove car home ( approx 4 miles) and pulled up to house and ..... You guessed it , It wouldn't start again. Pulled plugs and all carbon fouled , but not wet looking. Checked Schrader valve and there's fuel at rail . Now I'm thinking no injectors are firing as pump primes , starter spins and ignition works but no sputtering ? Please anybody got some ideas I'd like to hear them .
I suggest to check that some of the engine sensors are working correctly, especially when the engine is warm. For example, start with the following :
- the fuel pressure regulator,
- the fuel temperature sensor,
- the air temperature and air flow sensors and
- the throttle position sensor.
These are all important during a warm start.
Check that the electrical connections are good and compare cold and warm resistance/voltage values.
You could also check the brown injection relay, which is in the loom and not in the relay panel.
- the fuel pressure regulator,
- the fuel temperature sensor,
- the air temperature and air flow sensors and
- the throttle position sensor.
These are all important during a warm start.
Check that the electrical connections are good and compare cold and warm resistance/voltage values.
You could also check the brown injection relay, which is in the loom and not in the relay panel.
had a good day today. Removed yellow connector ( looked ok but best to get rid anyway), checked fuses and relays as suggested and tested coolant sensor etc, even reset ECU. Ran fault reader with no codes.....then on wiggle test it beeped when at TPS, ran test again and code for TPS came up. Had an old spare , so fitted it and she started up fine. Wish I'd disconnected TPS when at the car show , would of saved some embarrassment and got home in limp mode. At least it's back on road .
had a good day today. Removed yellow connector ( looked ok but best to get rid anyway), checked fuses and relays as suggested and tested coolant sensor etc, even reset ECU. Ran fault reader with no codes.....then on wiggle test it beeped when at TPS, ran test again and code for TPS came up. Had an old spare , so fitted it and she started up fine. Wish I'd disconnected TPS when at the car show , would of saved some embarrassment and got home in limp mode. At least it's back on road .
I suggest to first check that the hose between the air intake manifold and the fuel pressure regulator is in a good condition and that the connection between the two is not blocked anywhere.
Also, there is a fuel pressure test point on the fuel rail. Here the fuel pressure can be measured with a suitable gauge. Maybe your local garage could do this for you. See below for more details.
EFI-Fuel-Systems
Page 144 onward for system description and Page 235 onward for servicing/troubleshooting.
Download the info first, ca. 90 MB
This book "Ford Fuel Injection and Electronic Engine Control, 1988-93" is very useful and sometimes cheap ones come up on eBay/Amazon. I paid a tenner for mine, a few months ago.
Or, as a last resort, fit a new pressure regulator and see if it makes any difference. This is the original Ford P/N according to Fordopedia.org - 86TF 9C968 CA
Also, there is a fuel pressure test point on the fuel rail. Here the fuel pressure can be measured with a suitable gauge. Maybe your local garage could do this for you. See below for more details.
EFI-Fuel-Systems
Page 144 onward for system description and Page 235 onward for servicing/troubleshooting.
Download the info first, ca. 90 MB
This book "Ford Fuel Injection and Electronic Engine Control, 1988-93" is very useful and sometimes cheap ones come up on eBay/Amazon. I paid a tenner for mine, a few months ago.
Or, as a last resort, fit a new pressure regulator and see if it makes any difference. This is the original Ford P/N according to Fordopedia.org - 86TF 9C968 CA
Edited by TVRees on Wednesday 31st August 22:31
That's life !
Right, back in the country so time to try and crack on with this; thanks for you assistance thus far...
Anyone know where I can get suitable fuel pressure tester from? Everyone I find on internet seems to say that it isn't suitable for Bosch or Jetronic fuel injection systems? Also, how do I tell the difference between aluminium and cast fuel rails? Is it immediately obvious?
Anyone know where I can get suitable fuel pressure tester from? Everyone I find on internet seems to say that it isn't suitable for Bosch or Jetronic fuel injection systems? Also, how do I tell the difference between aluminium and cast fuel rails? Is it immediately obvious?
Decent ones are quite expensive as clearly pressurised fuel is a major safety issue in any garage. The Sykes Pickavant I saw was over £100 2nd hand. Haven't looked for one since as my local garage had an older SP one which was suitable for the older indirect injection engines (lower pressure) and did a check for me. (He has since lent it to me twice as he has very little use for it...and I cleaned it, and renewed the seals for £3! 
, I think he considers it worthwhile for all the MOT's alone I bring to him!)
, I think he considers it worthwhile for all the MOT's alone I bring to him!)
Mine's quite a late S3, so it has the nice aluminium fuel rail (the same colour as the plenum). The other half is out of the country for a bit so will get a decent chance to crack it now...
I've just been out and run it for the first time in a while, spraying a bit of carb cleaner (I didn't have starter fluid) down the AFMs, even just a very small amount almost stalls the engine; while a crude diagnosis that suggests to me that the car is over fuelling. Why it's doing it is another matter! I know diagnosis by replacement isn't efficient however, I don't think I'm going to be able to get it into the garage imminently to test the pressure on the fuel rail, so tempted to just get a fuel pressure regulator and see if that works. It can't hurt to have a new one/a spare if it doesn't fix it, right??
I've just been out and run it for the first time in a while, spraying a bit of carb cleaner (I didn't have starter fluid) down the AFMs, even just a very small amount almost stalls the engine; while a crude diagnosis that suggests to me that the car is over fuelling. Why it's doing it is another matter! I know diagnosis by replacement isn't efficient however, I don't think I'm going to be able to get it into the garage imminently to test the pressure on the fuel rail, so tempted to just get a fuel pressure regulator and see if that works. It can't hurt to have a new one/a spare if it doesn't fix it, right??
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